Re-programming a key fob can be done by a Viper Tech with a DRB for about $75.00. If you take it to the dealer, make sure you take both/all fobs, as they will all need to be reprogrammed, even the one(s) that already work. You can also do it yourself, and there used to be directions in the "How To" section off of the home page, but it's been pulled. If you choose to do it yourself, here are instructions that I clipped from an old post. You can find the post by doing a search on "remote re-programming".
Originally posted in 2005 :
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1. Ensure the alarm system is not armed.
2. (1996 ~ 1998 GEN II) Ground pin C13 loose green wire taped to harness of EEM connector, which is under dash mounted on the left side of trans tunnel, directly above accelerator. Easy access if you remove knee bolster and rubber bungee cord that holds EEM to tunnel.
2A. (1999 ~ 2000) As #2, but instead of C13 you're grounding Terminal 1 of the DLC. (9/30 update...Ron found out that DLC is the Data Link Connector, i.e. the under dash OBD2 connector which is above your left knee)
2B. (ALL GEN I) Ground green "Program" Wire located next to SAM and RKE modules. Is a green wire with a bullet connector on end. Is located under driver's side instrument panel.
Hint, Make sure you're connecting to a solid body ground by testing it with an ohm meter.
3. Turn ignition to run position while green wire is still grounded!
4. EEM acknowledges entry into programming mode by flashing the dash LED. If it doesn't flash, you either:
- Have the wrong wire
- Aren't solidly grounded
- You came off ground after the ignition switch was placed in the run position. Start over.
5. (All GEN II) Press BOTH buttons on the transmitter simultaneously and continuously for 10 seconds. You will hear a triple horn chirp when FOB is accepted by the EEM.
5B. (All GEN I) Press and release the arm or disarm button on either FOB, then same for the next.
Hint: Make sure your transmitter is working, i.e fresh CR2032 battery $1.19 @ Zbattery.com and good clean battery contacts. Many times your problem is an electrically weak connection within the FOB itself.
6. You MUST program all FOBS during the same programming process. You can program up to 4 on a GEN II and I think only 2 on a GEN I.
That's it. Turn the ignition off and remove green wire from ground, then test the arm and disarm functions.
I've done 4 FOBS myself and found it quite easy once you find the green wire.
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The 4 FOBS were done by the original poster, not by me.
Hope this helps.
) and I am still not able to get the second fob to work. I asked Chuck about grounding the gree wire first and he said that Gen II's do not have a green wire and that it was just a Gen I thing. 
