How Hard is Installing Headers and Exhaust System

[SYNFULL]

I just recieved my Belanger headers and should get my Randomtech Exhaust tomorrow. I would like to do the install job myself (my son will help) just for the satisfaction of doing it but I am not sure how difficult it is. I have novice to moderate skills. I enjoy working on my car but have never done any major work. I have read and downloaded several exhaust system installations, and I think the headers look pretty straightfoward. I am deleting the cats (if it's too loud I will put in a small muffler)so I think I just need a 3" straight pipe with good clamps to go from the header to the randomtech.
My question is- am I getting in over my head? Is this better left to a muffler shop? Does anything have to be welded?
Thanks for your input-
Gary

 

[Viper Wizard]

Hi Gary,
If you would like, you can give me a call and maybe I can give you a few pointers.

 

[SYNFULL]

Thanks Chuck I appreciate that. If I get stuck I will definately give you a shout.
Gary

 

[Doc.]

Gary,

If you have any mechanical skills its a pretty straight forward install. I did mine in the garage by myself. I then drove it down to the muffler shop without the side sills and had the cats welded up. I say go for it.

Doc.

 

[Qualitywires.com]

I would make sure you chase those threads before you put back on your headers. Sometimes...bits and peices of aluminum gets stuck in there and then you strip a bolt hole...life ***** after that! LOL!

I would get some ARP studs instead of using the factory bolts.

 

[SYNFULL]

AB,
Thanks I will do that. BTW it is important to put the heat shields back in place- isn't it. I'm sure it would look nicer without them but you need the protection don't you?

Gary

 

[BlueGTS]

It is very straight forward and is really not a problem. I work very slowly so I did mine during the winter so I would not loose and driving time. If you feel any resistance when re-installing the header bolts stop and make sure the studs are not rubbing against the header. That was the biggest problem for me. With anti-seize on them you should be able to screw them all the way in by hand. I put the heat shields back on as the power steering reservoir is near it and has a tendency to open and splash on the headers.

 

[Qualitywires.com]

me personally, I would put some kind of heat shield to cut down on heat on the plastic parts of the car...such as harnesses and so on...if you expose those pieces to too much heat it will cause them to get brittle...but they will get brittle eventually anyways. I guess it all depends on you and what you want to show off when you open your hood.

 

[SYNFULL]

I have the antiseize and thread chaser ready!

 

[LETHAL GTS]

Not a difficult task. I would recomend that you remove your heater air box and fan. It comes off in no time and makes your header install so much easier. I had my headers ceramic coated to keep the heat down under the hood. Looks good and I don't need those fugly heat shields.

 

[orlandov10]

does anyone have a link or picture of what a thread chaser looks like? I've never used one before.

Hey Garwood I just got done pulling my headers off my red Viper, I'm selling the red Viper but before I do I want those headers on my black car. So I'm swapping manifolds off my black Viper. The manifolds were a breeze to take off but the headers were a PITA. Granted the headers I have are all individual pieces and I dont know who makes them.. not Belanger. One of the hardest parts for me was getting the runners out of the collector, fortunatly you won't have to deal with that.

Adam

I used antiseeze but no thread chaser, the red car is up and running now with the manifolds.. My black car should be back together this weekend, I'm having the headers ceramic coated here in town, they're supposed to be done today around 4:00

 

[LETHAL GTS]

It's called a tap and die set. Chaser is slang.
Here's a link:
http://www.tapdie.com/

 

[orlandov10]

Before I installed my headers I did a search and found a good thread on installing headers, in this thread someone posted up "use a thread chaser, not to be confused with a tap" I think a thread chaser is different from a tap, I dont think its tapered nor is it designed to cut through metal as a tap is.

 

[Simms]

I'd call Chuck for some excellent tips. I used his tips when doing my exhaust and I am glad I did.

 

[LETHAL GTS]

I beleive the whole point to this procedure is to be sure that you don't have burred threads. A tap will produce the same results.

 

[acrdakota]

Hey guys don't generalise, a tap/die is DIFFERENT from a thread chaser. Tap is for cutting threads and will generally remove material even on already cut stock threads. Get a thread chaser and it will clean out the holes/threads w/o cutting any material and loosening the tolerances.

http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=sitemap2.asp&N=400295

Powerhouse usually has some good buys as well.

 

[LETHAL GTS]

Take a closer look at your link dude! Look at the pic of your so called chaser! It's the same damn thing a tap is.
Do some of you guys even own tools.
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/norm/arp-911-0006_m.jpg

 

[orlandov10]

Its different, the chaser is not tapered at the end.. its not designed for cutting into metal

 

[LETHAL GTS]

This isn't freakin rocket science.
Have you finished the install yet?

 

[PhoenixGTS]

Suggestion. Use stock head-to-header gaskets rather than composite. Otherwise, you might be become an expert at exhaust installs after you have to do it a second time to replace a blown gasket.

 

[kwkshift]

To help prevent blown header gaskets, re-torque down the header bolts after a few heat cycles. I have done this for years on all of my cars after installing headers and I have never had a gasket go bad. I just went back in 2-3 days later and checked all of the bolts.n Some will probably be loose.

 

[RandyS]

I think the difference in the taps you guys are talking about is a standard tap and a bottom tap. The standard tap has more of a taper and cuts easier. I use a bottom tap to get as much thread as I can when installing studs. Not much of a difference, but it makes more usable threads in the hole.

Randy

 

[orlandov10]

I just got my headers back from the ceramic coater today, I had 2 choices, the polished look or stright black, I was told the black is more effective up to 2000 degrees so I went with that over the better looking 1200 degree polished silver ceramic, I was told by the owner of Hypercoat that the black will hold in the heat better. Headers took me from 11:00 AM until 8:00 PM to install, they were a PITA!! Not Belanger, I dont know who makes them as they came off the red Viper I bought at the auction, anyone know how many companies make headers with individual runners? I have 12 pieces in all, 10 runners and two collectors. They are the same size as the belanger and they are equal length too so I think they will be ok, but they were a PITA to install. Tomorrow I have to lengthen my 02 sensor harness's as they wont reach, I need to add in about 2 feet on easch side. Oh and I never used a tap or a thread chaser, the bolts went in by hand all the way, I just dabbed on some antisieze.

 

[SYNFULL]

I'm not sure what type of gasket they sent me from belanger but I assume it will work
I'm still waitng for the randomtech exhaust- it was supposed to come friday according to jon at parts rack but it didn't show. It's been almost 3 weeks sine they carged my credit card. I hope it will be here monday.
What size pipe do I use to connect the headers and exhaust? They are both 3" so I guess I need something with an inside diameter these will slide into - and then some nice thick 3" clamps. Dynomax makes some nice ones that I saw on Jegs site. I'm going to try autozome tomorrow.
Thanks
Gary