dave6666
Enthusiast
We all do seat-of-the-pants dyno numbers right? And if you work on your own car we've all done feel-of-the-wrist bolt torques right?
Here's the correct way to torque the bottom row of bolts on those Belanger (and maybe others too) headers.
A crows foot will get at some of the bolts, but you need something a little longer for many on the bottom row. Commercial torque adapters are 2" long (and also box end
) so I made my own with a 1/2" open end wrench and a small 3/8 dr socket welded to it.
***VERY IMPORTANT***
You must correct the torque wrench setting for this adapter using the instructions supplied with your torque wrench. Do not use the same setting as you would with a socket!
The crows foot I used was 3/4" long for the torque adapter correction equation, and the new wrench setting was 190 in lb.
The 2" long adapter I made changed the setting to 175 in lb.
Your instructions might look something like these for my Proto, in the pic down below.
These links that follow provide some formulas that you can use if you can't find the literature for your tool. Also, they have formulas for both the torque extension adding length to the tool, as well as pointing back toward the tool as in many of the hands on pics I have after all of this technical crap.
Torque Wrench Adapter Extended Calculation - Engineers Edge
Torque Wrench Adapter Reduced Arm Calculation - Engineers Edge
My wrench uses length "L" of 13.55 inches, which makes the torque value 170.5 in lbs when the 2" long adapter is pointed back toward the handle, and 174.3 when pointed away from the handle. I used 175 in lbs as noted above.
All of the bolts that I couldn't get at until I made this tool, that I had tightened using the feel-of-the-wrist method, were too tight by the way, when I tried the new adapter on them. Instant torque wrench click. Backed 'em off and used the tool Luke. Not the force Luke.
Crows foot in action...
Dave's foot in action...
Here's the correct way to torque the bottom row of bolts on those Belanger (and maybe others too) headers.
A crows foot will get at some of the bolts, but you need something a little longer for many on the bottom row. Commercial torque adapters are 2" long (and also box end
) so I made my own with a 1/2" open end wrench and a small 3/8 dr socket welded to it.
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***VERY IMPORTANT***
You must correct the torque wrench setting for this adapter using the instructions supplied with your torque wrench. Do not use the same setting as you would with a socket!
The crows foot I used was 3/4" long for the torque adapter correction equation, and the new wrench setting was 190 in lb.
The 2" long adapter I made changed the setting to 175 in lb.
Your instructions might look something like these for my Proto, in the pic down below.
These links that follow provide some formulas that you can use if you can't find the literature for your tool. Also, they have formulas for both the torque extension adding length to the tool, as well as pointing back toward the tool as in many of the hands on pics I have after all of this technical crap.
Torque Wrench Adapter Extended Calculation - Engineers Edge
Torque Wrench Adapter Reduced Arm Calculation - Engineers Edge
My wrench uses length "L" of 13.55 inches, which makes the torque value 170.5 in lbs when the 2" long adapter is pointed back toward the handle, and 174.3 when pointed away from the handle. I used 175 in lbs as noted above.
All of the bolts that I couldn't get at until I made this tool, that I had tightened using the feel-of-the-wrist method, were too tight by the way, when I tried the new adapter on them. Instant torque wrench click. Backed 'em off and used the tool Luke. Not the force Luke.
You must be registered for see images
Crows foot in action...
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Dave's foot in action...
You must be registered for see images
You must be registered for see images
You must be registered for see images
