Is this the front tie down point for gen III?

[MuzzB Yellow]

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[Viper X]

Yep, you found it. The oval shaped opening in the frame is where you put your "R" hook. Gen II is about the same.

Dan

 

[MuzzB Yellow]

Thanks Dan.

 

[Vipera Russelli]

Ah, tie-down talk again. Here's some more info on the matter:

http://vca2.viperclub.org/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB21&Number=533806&Forum=UBB21&Words=r-hook&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=0&Limit=250&Old=allposts&Main=533473&Search=true#Post533806

 

[cgmaster]

Do not tie your car down there! That point is not for tying a car down for transporting it. The only way to secure a car for transporting is to strap it down on the wheels and tires.

Remember the suspnsion will still move up and down while it is on the trailer. If you tie it down at the point in the photo you risk ripping the tiedown out or twisting your frame when the suspension moves up and down.

 

[SRTRICKY]

Do not tie your car down there! That point is not for tying a car down for transporting it. The only way to secure a car for transporting is to strap it down on the wheels and tires.

Remember the suspnsion will still move up and down while it is on the trailer. If you tie it down at the point in the photo you risk ripping the tiedown out or twisting your frame when the suspension moves up and down.

thats what I read before as well

 

[Viper X]

cqmaster,

Not sure where you get your information, but after thousands miles of tying my SRT-10, GTS and many others cars down at these points with r-hooks and nylon straps, no damage has occured whatsoever. This is what these ovals are welded into the frame for. Not for recovery but for tie down. When the suspension moves, the round shaped center of the r-hooks can rotate at the tie down points. The nylon straps are also flexible and will provide some elasticity.

Perhaps you were thinking someone might use chains in place of nylon straps?

If you doubt this, talk to a few tow truck or tow truck supply companies like AW Direct. This is how I and many others first learned of these spots and their purpose.

Dan

 

[GR8_ASP]

I think you can also check with the transport companies to see how they tie them down. But for me I have used the tie down holes with no issue just like Dan. In fact most trailers are not set up for wheel tie-downs.

 

[Viper X]

Here is an excerpt from the 2004 SRT-10 Viper Service Manual:

TOWING
STANDARD PROCEDURE - TOWING
To avoid damage to bumper fascia and air dams
use of a flat bed towing device is recommended. If a
flat bed device is used, the approach angle should not
exceed 15 degrees. Use only the reinforced elongated
holes located in front of the front suspension on the
side of frame rail to secure vehicle to flat bed. Use
only the reinforced elongated holes located rearward
of the rear suspension on the side of frame rail to
secure vehicle to flat bed. Secure vehicle to flat bed
at all four corners of frame to avoid towing damage.

This says it all.

Dan

 

[dblankenbaker]

Penske and Koni strongly advise NOT to tie down at the wheels. You risk damaging the shocks and suspension whenever you go over a "rise" and the towed car gets light and pulls against the tied down wheels.

 

[Vipera Russelli]

Our own Gary Almond of www.almondexotictransports.com recommended to me the R-hooks and the slots. Janni agrees as well based on lots and lots of experience (see the thread link in my previous post above). I've only used the R-hooks and slots, also for thousands of miles, with no problems whatsoever.

 

[Janni]

We're going to continue to use the R hooks and tie downs. Tens of thousands of miles without issue on any car, no shock damage to the Motons, Dynamics or stock Konis.

One thing that I WILL say, is that when we tie them down, we tie them down. The suspension is compressed pretty good and the car is snugged way down with very little "lifting" or bouncing occuring. In fact, several people have commented that the Comp Coupe may be getting longer due to how tightly it's tied down. Tom Sessions had another theory when mentioned that the trailer seemed to be shorter than before - his theory is that when Henry pulls the tiedowns so tight, it's actually shortening the trailer (aluminum) and not stretching the steel frame of the car. Ha ha ha. Funny guy.

The cars don't move, and we seem to have much success with towing this way.

Your mileage may vary - but there's probably other issues with tying down by the wheels (with bonnets).....

 

[MuzzB Yellow]

Well I have her tied down with the backs crossed over and the fronts forward and out to the side. Took her for a test ride on 30 miles of bumpy roads and all is well. Leave for Willow Springs the 31st can't wait! Oh by the way does anyone know of anyone selling a race helmet? Need an extra Large and a medium.

 

[GaryC]

http://froogle.google.com/froogle?hl=en&btnG=Search+Froogle&q=bell+helmets&lmode=online&price1=225.00&price2=400.00&lnk=prsugg

 

[MuzzB Yellow]

Can I use an open face on the track?

 

[GaryC]

Can I use an open face on the track?

Yes

 

[MuzzB Yellow]

Can I use an open face on the track?

Yes

Im confused by your long winded reply...

 

[MuzzB Yellow]

Do you have to be a DORK to wear one

 

[Viper X]

No. I have a black open faced helmet (black car) that I use on warmer days. Sometimes the face shield can fog on warm days. It will vary from event to event, but I have seen many guys wearing open faced helmets in the lower divisions.

I also have a white one with a full face shield. The shield is removable, so you can use it either way. This one comes in handy when driving open cockpit cars.

 

[Vipera Russelli]

For what it's worth, I think some tracks will not let you wear an open-face helmet if you have a convertible and the top is down. I'm not 100% on this, since I have a closed face and thus haven't paid too much attention to the open-face rules and restrictions.

This thread it morphing.