dave6666
Enthusiast
It's a Gen 5. That's why Waldo the Wal Mart Viper Tech misstepped. His training is only up to blueprinting the ACR engine and wind tunnel tuning of the aero parts. Those are all of course Gen 4 skills.
Just about cried.....
- Thread starter Nitro187
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bmw2nv2000
Enthusiast
I do the same thing SKYBOB
Dave
Dave
Nitro187
Viper Owner
Sorry for not being more descriptive... but yes, it's an RT/10. And it's the NACA duct trim... or hood scoop trim... or "hole in the hood where the air goes in" trim... or <insert description\name here>
He must have thought it was a handle?
That thing, just the top portion.
Ok, so I'll take the bolts off then, and see if I can somehow put it together, and then test it to make sure it can withstand some force on it... in case I decide to go 200 mph.
Thanks guys.
He must have thought it was a handle?
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That thing, just the top portion.
Ok, so I'll take the bolts off then, and see if I can somehow put it together, and then test it to make sure it can withstand some force on it... in case I decide to go 200 mph.
Thanks guys.
dave6666
Enthusiast
3M VHB? I mean, what did it look like was attaching it before? Glue? Tape? Spit or pig snot?
Nitro187
Viper Owner
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dave6666
Enthusiast
Pics are not that good, but clear enough that it does not look like tape. Too uneven. I would call a body shop supply house (or go on-line) and find some panel or body molding trim adhesive. Clean the old off real good with a plastic scraper and Goo Gone. Mask the surrounding area during the entire process with blue painter's tape. Then re-glue.
FrankBarba
Enthusiast
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This is not the Wal Marts Mechanics fault. It is the fault of the Viper Owner. Its a shame that most owners do not purchase a service manual. For $ 100.00 an owner can purchase one of these & start working on their own car...What a shame...
What Dave said, take it to a body shop and see if they can recommend you the proper glue/epoxy. It may be easier to work on it if you take the remainder of the duct off the hood. If it were me, I'd use an industrial epoxy and put it back together or one of DevCon's Metal or Plastic welder epoxies. They work well on Viper parts....don't ask me how I know this.
Nitro187
Viper Owner
Lame... if you would have read the story, you'd see that I wasn't even watching him when he decided to start ripping parts off my car. I never asked him to lift up the hood... and it was a brain fart that I forgot about the positive terminal under the hood. So yes - it is the Walmart 'mechanics' fault for breaking that piece.
Nitro187
Viper Owner
What Dave said, take it to a body shop and see if they can recommend you the proper glue/epoxy. It may be easier to work on it if you take the remainder of the duct off the hood. If it were me, I'd use an industrial epoxy and put it back together or one of DevCon's Metal or Plastic welder epoxies. They work well on Viper parts....don't ask me how I know this.
Thanks man.
I'll do that, and thanks Dave.dave6666
Enthusiast
What Dave said, take it to a body shop and see if they can recommend you the proper glue/epoxy. It may be easier to work on it if you take the remainder of the duct off the hood. If it were me, I'd use an industrial epoxy and put it back together or one of DevCon's Metal or Plastic welder epoxies. They work well on Viper parts....don't ask me how I know this.
NO! Automotive body adhesives are designed to wear the elements such as moisture and temperature swings, but more importantly have a great deal of flexibility and will not make the part so stiff or fixed it could crack. And lastly, you can get the parts back off again with auto body adhesives. Industrial epoxies are probably permanent. And that only sounds good right now. Not 10 years down the road when the body shop calls during your repaint and asks whoTF permanently glued the trim on the hood.
Back to regularly scheduled programming now...
triblk6spd
Viper Owner
First, take the whole NACA duct off the car by removing the 6 nuts that attach it to the hood. Then get a good handle on what the best way to fix this is. My advice is NOT to go gluing things back together ***** nilly. Done properly, some good epoxy and a gentle touch may just do the trick.
FrankBarba
Enthusiast
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I didn't realise you could... anyone care to explain how?
The only reason I did it this way was 1) I didn't know how to under the hood and 2) I JUST took my car out from winter storage, and put the battery in yesturday; so it wasn't a big deal for me to expose the battery... was even able to do it without removing the tire. However, for future reference... how to do it under the hood would be helpful.
to.....
Look at your other posts again....You even stated that you didn't know that this could be done....Buy a Service Manual
I am positive you wrote the above post.....
The only reason I did it this way was 1) I didn't know how to under the hood and 2) I JUST took my car out from winter storage, and put the battery in yesturday; so it wasn't a big deal for me to expose the battery... was even able to do it without removing the tire.
However, for future reference... how to do it under the hood would be helpful.to.....
Look at your other posts again....You even stated that you didn't know that this could be done....Buy a Service Manual
I am positive you wrote the above post.....
That piece is not glued to the hood. I know this because I removed it by removing 6 nuts that hold the entire NACA duct piece in place when installing my stripes. The piece with the yellow goop shown in the pics is part of the NACA duct, not the hood. In fact, it broke off right where the mounting tabs are located which holds the mounting bolts. He got lucky. If this is the case, he can glue two pieces back together using epoxy. He may need to grind down the globs of glue to get a good fit but don't glue it to the hood!
dave6666
Enthusiast
I'm not challenging where it is attached. I'm challenging the material to attach it with. I would not use an epoxy unless it's an automotive body epoxy. They are different from industrial cements/glues etc for a reason. Devcon is industrial. 3M Automotive is...
w8liftn
Viper Owner
Like I said earlier about what happened to mine, you might wanna reconsider gluing at all or you might end up in the same situation that I'm in. If I were you I would look for a backup to the glue.
FYI, I bought my replacement duct from X2builders.com NIB for $295.
FYI, I bought my replacement duct from X2builders.com NIB for $295.
red98RT10
Enthusiast
I also had the same thing happen to my '98 RT10 and was told (by Jon B at PartsRack, I think) that it is far better to replace the whole NACA duct. It was an easy replacement and I never had any other problems with it.
w8liftn
Viper Owner
Old:
[media]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r107/w8liftn/100_3650.jpg[/media]
New (prior to paint):
[media]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r107/w8liftn/100_3649.jpg[/media]
[media]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r107/w8liftn/100_3648.jpg[/media]
[media]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r107/w8liftn/100_3650.jpg[/media]
New (prior to paint):
[media]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r107/w8liftn/100_3649.jpg[/media]
[media]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r107/w8liftn/100_3648.jpg[/media]
Darbgnik
Enthusiast
Looks like the original piece is made up of 2 pieces, of which then gets bolted to the hood.
To attach the top of the duct back to the duct, I would use automotive urethane, like window installers. Strong bond and stays flexible.
To attach the top of the duct back to the duct, I would use automotive urethane, like window installers. Strong bond and stays flexible.
