Key Fob Alarm Issue

[72hemi]

So this is the second time this has happened to me, but this time the problem hasn't corrected itself and I am not sure what the problem is. So yesterday I went out to my 2001 Viper GTS Coupe ACR and clicked the unlock button and nothing happened. I tried several times but nothing ever happened. I checked the door and it was still locked. So I opened the rear hatch and when it opened the alarm did not go off. So I reached in and opened the door, got in the car and it started right up. So other than not being able to set/unset the alarm the car is working fine. Any ideas? And there is a new battery in the key fob.

 

[Steve-Indy]

Can't tell from post if you locked doors with fob or door button upon exit.

If fob never working, try to re-sync of fob standing CLOSE to driver's side of windshield.

After you exit car, do the door handle LED's turn off after a couple of minutes or stay on?

 

[72hemi]

I tried resyncing the key fob and it didnt work. To lock the car I had to push the lock button on the door handle. I believe it is some sort of issue with the alarm because when the key fob didnt work and I opened the hatch the alarm should have gone off but it didnt.

 

[tlcobra]

I have this problem also . But it happens if i use the fobe with the door open then shut the door. I can press the door pop bottom and it will open with no alarm. Then it will be back to normal

 

[DrTaco]

Cobra- If you have the door open when ya try and set the alarm then the car will know something is "open" (doors, hood, hatch) and the alarm function will not activate.

To the OP, I think that's why Steve-Indy was asking about the door LEDs. If the door LEDs are remaining on that could indicate the car "thinks" somthing is open (doors, hood, hatch) and not turning the alarm function on. VERY common for the hood switch to need some adjustment in order to tell the car the hood is closed. I had to battle my hood switch for weeks before I finally just took it out. Of course, it could always just be a bad/broken key fob which will drive you batty then. Any chance of getting a new fob? In any case you'd have a brandnew working backup then

 

[72hemi]

Thanks for the reply. I will check that out this afternoon.

 

[72hemi]

Well I found the problem. It wasn't the hood switch, the wire in the drivers door had broken. Well actually several wires broke and were hanging on by a strand or two. So I will probably order a new harness. I have them spliced for now, but long term I think I will feel better with a new harness.

 

[DrTaco]

Glad you got it figured out

 

[chambers]

Well I found the problem. It wasn't the hood switch, the wire in the drivers door had broken. Well actually several wires broke and were hanging on by a strand or two. So I will probably order a new harness. I have them spliced for now, but long term I think I will feel better with a new harness.

How is it that several wires are broke. How does that happen?

 

[Steve-Indy]

This is a very common problem on Gen II's....usually driver's side first since it is used most often. There have been many threads on this issue.

 

[Grisoman]

This is a very common problem on Gen II's....usually driver's side first since it is used most often. There have been many threads on this issue.

Yes indeed and one reason why it is important not to open the door fully if you can help not to. Try this yourself . . . with one hand on the wire bundle running to your door, feel the bundle stretch and tighten as you open the door to the full open position. Seems to me a bit longer harness would have gone a long way to prevent these annoying failures.