Left rear hub area makes a distinct "clink" under torque application

[Vic]

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[Vic]

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[Vic]

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[Vic]

Dave 1296,

Seems to me if the axle nut keeps the stub axle tightly married to the wheel bearing, then that nut would have to be pretty loose, before you'd have any in and out motion in the splines. Like, 100 ft #s would still allow zero play, just as well as 250 ft #s. Of course, it should be set at 250, I'm just saying that a lesser torque setting does not equate to free end play. It's not like we are compressing a spring, where less torque would result in greater end play. It's just a nut/race/stub-shoulder sandwich, with nothing the slightest bit compressible in between. If there was a bellville washer or spring under compression, that would be different. Less torque would mean more end play. Not the case here. (I think....!)

Which means my spline-bind theory is all wet. The stub axle splines cannot move in or out of the wheel bearing inner race spline insert, if the axle nut is "at all" tight.

Here are a few things that could have stopped the sound-

Moved half-shaft mid-point splines through their range of motion, which may have re-distributed grease on the typical contact area.

Flipped bearing carrier 180 degrees.

Greased stub axle splines, which may temporarily cushion rotating wear gap, preventing solid metal-to-metal backlash.

And- I'll conceed that a lesser torque value on the axle may allow some stretching of the threads, or whatever.


As you say, no noise, no problem.

 

[dave6666]

I was thinking more of the fit of the hub to the splined shaft. The nut is what makes those 2 parts ultimately one. There has to be enough slop there to be able to get them apart and back together without force like a puller or press, so the nut IS a big part of that mechanical connection. And I'm just thinking, the slight amount of slop on the hub splines, could be the click.

So, my theory rests on radial forces / play on that joint, whereas your comments rest on axial forces / play on that joint.

 

[Jack B]

I had a similar sound and it was a partially twisted half shaft. I could not compress the shaft, but, the car could. I replaced the half shaft and the noise was gone.

 

[Vic]

I was thinking more of the fit of the hub to the splined shaft. The nut is what makes those 2 parts ultimately one. There has to be enough slop there to be able to get them apart and back together without force like a puller or press, so the nut IS a big part of that mechanical connection. And I'm just thinking, the slight amount of slop on the hub splines, could be the click.

So, my theory rests on radial forces / play on that joint, whereas your comments rest on axial forces / play on that joint.

Oh, ok, hadn't thought of it that way.

I like to think that my theory draws heavily from the SWAG principle of mechanical engineering.

(Scientific Wild Asz Guess)

btw, I always appreciate your technical input. Which is exceeded perhaps, only by my incredible good looks.

 

[Vic]

I had a similar sound and it was a partially twisted half shaft. I could not compress the shaft, but, the car could. I replaced the half shaft and the noise was gone.

Ah, notable example of axle problems. Thanks

 

[dave6666]

Sorry Vic. My dogs said I'm the hottest thing going. My dogs have never lied to me.

 

[Vic]

baw-haw-haw-ha! lol!

 

[Nocturnal]

Hello, I know this is an old thread but just wanted to ask anyway. So there is a clicking noise only on the passenger rear when I back out or pull forward and turn right. It doesn't always happen but sometimes it is really load. With that all being said I was going to check the torque on the axle stub and I have seen here where it was said the torque value should be 250ftlb. Looking at the 2000 model year service manual it said the torque value for the axle hub nut is 190 ftlb so just wondering where the 250 ftlb is coming from or if there is a difference between years. I did check it for 190ftlb and it is set to that just don't want to go to tight unless it is supposed to be 250.

Thanks
Dave

 

[Dan Cragin]

We torque those bearings to 250 on the street cars and 300 on the race cars. More than the factory spec. Most likely the noise is play in the snub-axle splines at the wheel. We swap right to left wheel bearings, which switches the pitch of the splines in the hub and gets rid of the noise.

 

[Nocturnal]

Great, thanks for the tip. Easy enough to do the bearing swap so I might just try that. I did pull that bearing off and it did have the usual rust on it but didn't notice any bad wear.