Long Term Viper Storage - Preparation Questions and WTB Cover

[MoreBeer]

Well, with a bittersweet feeling I need to pickle my '03 for a long nap. I took a job in Europe and my family and I will be moving over for several years (at least 3), with occasional trips back home. I would love to take the car with me, but its looking like the flat we like the most only has a carport, not a full garage. I'm definitely keeping the snake, but need to put it into deep hibernation. I found a couple links to a long-gone thread while searching the forum, but can't seem to find anything quantitative on prepping for storage. As much as I love the car and trust some fellow car guys, I don't want to have anyone come by and start it up/take it for a drive periodically. Too many variables to worry about.

First and most important (I think):

• Car Cover - What kind should I get? I currently have the stock cover, but I was thinking about a full bodybag, as the car will be kept in an un-climate controlled garage in a residential environment. There haven't been any rodent problems, but I would prefer not to take any chances. From looking at old threads, I am aware of both mothball and bounce dryer sheets. I will plant a couple mousetraps around the perimeter of the car as well. Is just the stock car cover OK, or am I better off going with a Dusttop or full on outdoor-bodybag with silica gel? If so, does a VCA member have one for sale/discount? There will be power, so even a carcoon is an option if I can find a used one at a decent price.

• Tires/Battery - They're both at the end of their usable lives. I'm not worried about flat spots in the tires, but since the car will be sitting on the concrete, should I park it on top of my Race Ramps/2x4's, or just let it sit on the concrete slab? (Don't worry, I will make sure to burn off all usable tread before I let it sit!). I could also do jackstands, but I'm a little worried as the garage where this is parked will see occasional use. I'd hate to get a call that 'uh, your car fell off the jacks'.

• Fluids - I read to pull the plugs, put some oil in the top of the cylinders, and hand-tighten the plugs back in. Anything else I should worry about? (How full should the tank be, Sta-bil I assume?)

• Seals - I understand that letting a car sit for prolonged amounts of time is not ideal, especially the threat of fluids sitting against the rubber seals. I don't think draining the car is a good idea, is this really something to worry about?

• Exterior/Interior - I will definitely make sure the car is in tip-top detailed condition before I can it. Full coat of wax, fully clean interior. Assuming top up, windows completely closed, or slightly ajar?

• Parking Brake - I will not use it. Should I leave the car in gear, or neutral with chocks?

Thanks all. It's bad enough I'm heading out the week of VOI, and I will miss this car an awful lot... On the bright side, I've had the chance to enjoy the Hell out of it this summer, and I will definitely remain an active VCA member from afar!

-mb

 

[BlknBlu]

I have never seen any good long term storage techniques on a car. Stabil is good for about a year. Flatspots on the tires are no big deal if they need to be changed. Remove the battery completely. It would be nice if the car could be started and brought up to operating temps about every 3 months.

Good luck

Bruce

 

[Thom]

Automotive museums have a lot of experience in long-term auto storage. You might try their websites for some tips.

If I remember right, the best thing method they have found is exercising the car every two weeks or so. So your best bet may be finding a different place and taking your car, or having a trusted relative/friend drive it while you are gone.

Or you could sell it, put the money in the bank (or invest it) for three years, then buy a used Gen5 when you get back.

 

[Hirkophoto]

I agree you need to have someone start it and get it up to temp. I would say once a month because the seals and hoses are going to suffer from sittin to long. You could leave the battery in there if your going to have it started once a month. Just put a battery tender on it and it will keep surprisingly well. You may need to replace it once to you start driving it again but it should be good to start it once every 4-5 weeks. Having it started more often is the key here, sitting engines are not good.

 

[Thom]

[deleted accidental duplicate post]

 

[swexlin]

Correct, the car need to be driven at least once a month. That is why I drive my car even in winter, as long as the roads are clear and dry, just to exercise it and circulate the fluid.

Look at how many low mileage cars that have sat most of their lives seem to have more issues than higher mileage, well maintained ones.

 

[Mopar Steve]

more important is protection from rodents. Mice can take up residency in the engine compartment and interior chewing insulation and wires.

 

[LifeIsGood]

Vipers around here sit in storage/garages during the winter for months at a time (no starting)...mine sits for at least 4 months (Dec-Mar). I haven't heard of any problems from the owners in this area and mine has always started right up.

As info...Mine is stored on a lift 7' off the ground and the concrete below it has a parking mat. I always use a battery tender.

 

[Wiretech]

You should rent a garage first , as for the tires drive it on white insulation foam to avoid flat spots , fog up the engine intake with oil, remove the battery, change all fluids if its over 3 years ,and two car covers,. silicon spray rubber weather strip, and set up mouse trap with peanut butter.

 

[GTS Bruce]

As far as rodents go they can find their way in through a crack or a hole as small as a nickle. I use RAT traps under the car. Use a peanut with shell on the rat trap prong.(triangular piece). I make a cut in the shell and jam the peanut on the triangular prong. The whatever rodent can't resist and pulls on the peanut. Game over. Check once in a while for a catch. Usualy just dump and reset since they don't get any farther than that first tug or nibble on the peanut. Hand full of peanuts in the shell last years. GTS Bruce

 

[Jmch]

There are electronic rodent deterrents that you can plug into an extension cord and run into the interior and trunk and engine compartment of the car. I use them in my Rv year round with dryer sheets, works very well. (NO mothballs) Also in relation to the Rv which never gets used enough it has more problems after sitting for too long than when I let people borrow it just for the sake of keeping it moving and running. So I would strongly suggest at the minimum start it and if possible move it once a month or maybe just every few months. Being an auto/truck mechanic for 15 years it seems every time I have dealt with sta-bil it has always left a residue that can potentially plug injectors and it usually just gets worse the longer it sits. Also get it off the concrete as concrete "sweats" with temperate variance and any car sitting on moisture for long periods is generally not a good idea. Lift? Ramps? Jack stands?

 

[MoreBeer]

Thanks for all the replies folks. I do have some friends that I would trust to light it up every once in a while, I just didn't want to make them have to trudge to the location, uncover the car, and run it for a while. maybe once every few months would be possible...

I also thought about selling it, but due to this position, I'd have to get rid of it quickly. And I truly love all the mods done to it (cammed, heads, wrapped exhaust, VEC2)... It is truly a driver's car with ~65,000 miles, and I love every minute of it!

-mb