Looking for HVAC actuator door info

[MoparMap]

Several years ago the shaft of the blend door on my HVAC box twisted off on my 04. I tried to epoxy it back together, but it's a pretty soft plastic and I don't think I got it clocked correctly as the A/C just doesn't blow as cold anymore and the heater blows pretty hot from even as low as 1/4 of the way up the temp dial. I ran the actuator test on my DRB III and also get a failure, so I'm 99% sure it's the problem. My issue is trying to figure out how to replace it. The parts manual I have doesn't really make sense to me as it lists every actuator door in the HVAC as the same part number (possible, but seems unlikely). On top of that, it also includes the main inlet duct as part of the part number, which makes it even more strange. It's either telling me I get 4 doors and one vent with a single part number (unlikely based on what I'm seeing online), or that I have to buy 4 inlet ducts and pull the door from each to get what I want (this seems extra dumb).

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So that being said, I don't suppose anyone has ever taken one of these apart or could offer any advice on replacing them? I took the entire dash out of the car the first time getting to it, but didn't want to open the A/C system at the time, so never took the whole box out of the car. I think I'm at that point now, but would like to try to have parts first before getting too far into things. It doesn't help that item 4 is listed as discontinued anyway on most part sites (which seems odd given that it was used up to 2017 and they are supposed to have spare parts for 10 years after end of manufacture), but I know I can potentially get a salvage box or something as a last resort. I found a place that will make them out of metal as well, but would need a good door to send them to begin with. Also looks like Dorman of all places makes some generic replacements, but I think I might need an original in hand to try to match it. Wondering if there are any Dodge dealers out there or something that could look this up for me and give me an idea of the best way to proceed. Thanks in advance!

 

[SA HEAT]

Sorry, haven't done one of these, but did you remove the door when you tried the epoxy? Is the shaft that twisted off attached to the #4 door or #5 actuator in the diagram? Seems like you could just get one of the specific parts that broke and replace it alone if I'm reading the first part of your post correctly.

 

[MoparMap]

I didn't get the whole thing out when I tried to fix it before. There was enough of a stub sticking out that I tried to epoxy the end back on, but it wasn't a clean break, so it was hard to get it lined back up correctly. The problem is there are 4 different doors in the box as I understand it (blend door (temp), mode door (floor vs dash vents), defrost, and recirc (inlet). All four show the same part number in the drawing, but it seems really unlikely that every door is exactly the same. The other problem is if you look at the drawing item #4 points to four different doors and the inlet housing itself. When I search the part number (05093244AA if that helps anyone), it comes back with a picture of the inlet housing with a door installed, but that's it. The other three doors are nowhere to be found, and it seems silly I'd have to buy the whole housing to get just a door.

 

[SA HEAT]

I think I see what you mean now by the schematic below...Doing a little research, it looks like the #6 part is the servo only (part #4885206AB) though it shows the door attached. I see nothing on numerous sites that show a seperate door part.....only the servo alone or the housing w/door attached (like you said). I also saw some of the Mopar sites that said either the part or fitment changed up to and from 2006 and 2008, so that may be in play for your 2004....not sure. I'm thinking your best bet may be to get the problem door out and see if there's a generic Doorman or shared Mopar match (looks like some of these AC plenum parts are shared with other Mopar vehicles so I wouldn't doubt if you could find a match). I've replaced a couple of blend doors in pickup trucks before, but it was fairly straight forward other than having to cut into the plenum housing to get to them.

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[Goggles Pizano]

You need the entire housing assembly. Individual doors are 99.99% of the time not sold individual by the manufacturer as they are not serviceable items per manufacturer and part of the housing.

The diagram is incorrect showing the #4 pointing to the doors but it is only referring to the inlet housing as the parts list showns qty 1 and future diagrams were changed.

05093244aa, Housing
Description:
Includes Servo, 2 Plate`s, Door, Case, Screws.

05093237ac, Housing
Description:
Includes Plates, Bracket, Shaft, Foot, Panel and Air Mix Doors, Clamp

 

[SA HEAT]

Saw your previous thread on just getting to the door. Yeesh!

The great blend door teardown (with pics)

So a week or two ago I drained my coolant and refilled it and turned the heater to full on to make sure the heater core purged any air (which I later found out was unnecessary). In doing so, I suddenly lost the ability for my HVAC system to blow cold air. I wasn't sure what was wrong...

www.viperclub.org

 

[MoparMap]

You need the entire housing assembly. Individual doors are 99.99% of the time not sold individual by the manufacturer as they are not serviceable items per manufacturer and part of the housing.

The diagram is incorrect showing the #4 pointing to the doors but it is only referring to the inlet housing as the parts list showns qty 1 and future diagrams were changed.

05093244aa, Housing
Description:
Includes Servo, 2 Plate`s, Door, Case, Screws.

05093237ac, Housing
Description:
Includes Plates, Bracket, Shaft, Foot, Panel and Air Mix Doors, Clamp

Ah, okay. I think I remember seeing that before as well on the housing. I agree the diagram seems wrong and appears to have changed over the years to correct it. I'll have to do some checks for the housing part number and see what I can find. I thought I remember finding it in the past suspiciously cheap, which made me wonder if I was actually getting the right thing.

 

[Goggles Pizano]

@MoparMap I am sure the doors are used on other cars from the corporate parts bin. Finding them might be hard even with knowing the part numbers on them but the internet is a pretty good database of information.

I trip to the local scrap yard is in order as local part stores might likely need to order in the aftermarket doors.

Cutting aluminum sheet will be easier to do with sticking foam sheets on to them or 3D printing might end up being the way to go in terms of overall time invested.

If anyone can post pictures of part numbers on the doors that would be great and measurements.

 

[Goggles Pizano]

Oh and the shaft broke (fatigued break) because of the actuator torque on the door. There are no limit switches and the spike in current is sensed by the computer to turn off the actuator. So fatigue break from multiple movements and/or loss of sense.

 

[MoparMap]

Yeah, I have a feeling it wouldn't be incredibly Viper specific, but since they don't seem to put numbers on them either way it would mean a fun search to try to find any more info. I did notice on mine that there is a stop actually built into the top of the housing that the coupler between the door and actuator will hit. Theoretically that should be taking the brunt of the force, but mine had started bending out of the way, so I think more was getting to the door. So a new housing may not be the worst plan to start with. Mostly curious how it got out of sync though to begin with. I have the DRB III now, so I can run the test and calibration, which will hopefully give it many more years of service if I can hunt down a replacement.

 

[Goggles Pizano]

There will be some sort of id on the doors. It would be company internal for the BOM but vehicle manufacturers require vendors to put this id's on the sub assemblies of the parts. Laser etched QR, upc codes are increasingly used in the past number of years coding part, batch, etc numbers especially on smaller parts. Take a look at a power antenna assembly, it will have a number of id's on the sub assemblies that make up the whole antenna.

Out of sync just happens like needing to restart your computer or phone. Some can be re-sync without a special tool (hold these buttons for x time, like the key fobs) or just re-sync themselves as they run through their operation.

Recalibration is a different story as now you are changing stored set points.