Motor Mounts - Where to buy

[Michael Goettl]

Hey all,

I am doing some exhaust work and will have the headers out. I didn't think of it prior, but I should probably do the motor mounts as well. I've read a few threads as recent as a couple years ago mentioning stock are around $45 each, and might be a good idea to switch to poly for the driver and trans mount. I am having trouble finding anything for close to $40. Probably due to the cars being older and harder to source parts. Any recommendations where to buy?

 

[Michael Goettl]

Found some of the duralast one through autozone for $20. Any links for the poly or OE?

 

[yevgenievich]

Have not tried these, but people seem to be buying them(Way more than the stock mount cost):
https://www.viperalley.com/forum/viper-discussions-gen-i/296497-new-engine-mounts-here.html

 

[Michael Goettl]

I'm not super concerned about price. But I am not doing anything in this car that needs a mount like that.

 

[yevgenievich]

I thought they were same as the trucks and looks like they are according to this:
https://polybushings.com/pages/2710.html

 

[yevgenievich]

Alsoe roe has more expensive set
https://www.roeracing.com/product/polyurethane-engine-mounts-fits-92-10-viper/

 

[Michael Goettl]

I thought they were same as the trucks and looks like they are according to this:
https://polybushings.com/pages/2710.html

I went with these. Any idea what side should be up, or doesn't it matter. You can see in the picture one side has a protruding dimple which could either help align it to the frame or the heat shield I put one in with it up and thought I should ask. If it doesn't matter I will do both side up, otherwise it's easy enough at this stage to flip the passenger side.

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Thanks,

mike

 

[yevgenievich]

I did not think there was actual difference. Have not had to do my mounts yet.

 

[WHY U TRY]

Those Dom's Motorsports ones look clean and nice. Hefty Premium though. When do these normally need to be changed or what will I be feeling when I need to change them? I have a 2000 ACR with 63k miles

 

[71firebird400]

Those Dom's Motorsports ones look clean and nice. Hefty Premium though. When do these normally need to be changed or what will I be feeling when I need to change them? I have a 2000 ACR with 63k miles

At 63k it is likely yours are shot. You can jack up the engine (with a board or some other cushioning device) to see if yours are beginning to tear apart- typically the drivers side is the one that goes. Symptoms of bad mounts include a shifter that moves a lot under throttle (due to an engine flopping around) and/or wheel hop.

 

[steve e]

I remember many years ago mounts were a hot topic. And I made the mistake of falling into the hype. I wish I could remember were I bought the motor and trans mounts, but they were awesome poly type mounts with a locking design, and a great price made by some guy from his own small business. The problem was I bought them before a checked my old ones, went through the whole mess in changing all the mounts which were fine, so now I have these high performance mounts that are hard as hell, the car feels like it has solid mounts, they say with time they soften up a bit, but everything is rock solid, shifter does not move and engine is solid under the hardest of launches. So check first and if your not a race car driver look into the stock mounts if you need them, yes they are expensive, but if you have some fillings in your mouth that you want to keep it might be worth it.

 

[John333]

Before getting my new tires installed on my new to me 2001 GTS/ACR with 28K miles, I asked my mechanic, a fellow Gen2 Viper owner, to thoroughly check over the suspension. Lemon Squad does a visual check and test drive, so I still needed a thorough mechanical check. My Viper had only 28K miles, but 3 of 4 inner tie rods were worn and the left motor mount was torn. General concensus for street use is rubber motor mounts and poly trans mount, so that is what I did. Unless you are tracking your car, you have no reason to feel every engine vibration. A poly trans mount improves shifting without adding noticeable vibration.
Also, I wanted to replace the sway bar links as the boots were ripped. I found these and some of the other needed parts at Rock Auto. They carry the Mopar brand along with many others. They didn't have the left motor mount, so I turned to JonB for the Mopar OEM after checking a few auto stores. I should have looked a little longer. Could have saved $400 buying aftermarket at Pep Boy's online site. Doubting the Anchor motor mount they sell is inferior to Mopar, I purchased one for my RT/10. Only time will tell, but it looks very well made. Front and rear outer tie rods are identical, so if you need them, buy 4 fronts. You will pay a hefty premium for rears, then see that that they are same as the fronts. Front and rear inner tie rods are different. I found the fronts online for $20 and turned to JonB for the rears.