Mystery oil leak

[SuperSaiks]

When the engine is just idling no leak, but if I drive it and put it under a load it leaks under neith. I put some engine dye and still very hard to figure out where it's coming from.

Already changed the oil pan gasket and torqued the bolts properly to spec.

Could it be the rear mine seal??

 

[speedracervr4]

Did you put RTV in the corners where the block and timing chain meet?

 

[SuperSaiks]

The mechanic did on the corners of the oil pan. Is that what your referring too?

 

[Stugots879]

I had the same issue. I went thru the whole thing and changed the oil pan gasket, the rear main seal and the rear main seal cover gasket. I also did the timing cover gasket in the front of the engine. That one made me more nervous since that could leak coolant out and also into the oil.

It cost some $$$, but at least it's all done.

 

[Dan Cragin]

What year Viper?

 

[SuperSaiks]

It's a 96 GTS

 

[speedracervr4]

The mechanic did on the corners of the oil pan. Is that what your referring too?

Yes, some year pans had porous metal that would allow small leaks ( or read on here anyway). I would clean it up and try to centralize the issue. Atleast to eliminate the front or rear of the engine.

 

[Steve-Indy]

...AND, a FEW 1996 Gen II's had porous blocks (fixed at Arrow with new engines in some cases).

Regardless of the location of the oil leak, please consider replacing the timing chain cover gasket (as mentioned above by Stugots879) BEFORE it blows...which can become VERY expensive if coolant enters oil pan and you lose your main bearings.

 

[Steve-Indy]

On a simpler note, did your mechanic put some RTV on EVERY oil pan bolts when replacing the gasket? If not, I 'd consider same if there are any signs of oil leaking around these bolts.

 

[klpilot]

Also check the ground wire on the engine. I had mine come loose on my 2000 viper and the steal braided oil lines became electrified and melted the rubber inside causing them to leak. Sounds funny but It's happened to quite a few people.

 

[Roy]

Mine leaked on the timing chain gasket, on top of the panel, barely in sight, it dripped down only underload, so we thought it was a problem down at the pan. Get under there, clean her up really well, and see where it starts, we had to put her on a lift, one person revving, one person searching and there it was

 

[swexlin]

I know I'm in the wrong forum, but I'm having this same issue on m 03. Like the OP, already did my pan gasket, but now it's back. Never enough to drip on the ground. It's not the oil cooler lines, they were replaced a couple years ago, and they are dry, as is the engine. Had it back on Steve's lift, and it's REALLY hard to tell where it's coming from. A couple have suggested rear main seal.

Is the timing chain gasket an issue on the Gen 3 as well? I have 32,000 miles.

 

[Roy]

I know I'm in the wrong forum, but I'm having this same issue on m 03. Like the OP, already did my pan gasket, but now it's back. Never enough to drip on the ground. It's not the oil cooler lines, they were replaced a couple years ago, and they are dry, as is the engine. Had it back on Steve's lift, and it's REALLY hard to tell where it's coming from. A couple have suggested rear main seal.

Is the timing chain gasket an issue on the Gen 3 as well? I have 32,000 miles.

correct me if I'm wrong, but the rear main seal is at the back of the engine and the timingchain gasket and oil cooler lines are both at the front...if you are not sure to exclude one of both...you are not looking very well are you?

Here is what I did on my 92. put the car on the lift, clean her up real good underneath, turn eninge on and rev it pretty heavily to create the load on the engine you need to have it seep. that's how I found out my timing chain was leaking at the top of the engine, right where you can't see it...so I was thinking it came from the front of the pan all the time.
When you drive the car the oil will wave all the way to the back, but if it would be the rear main seal, you won't find any oil at the front!

if you really can't find the source, you could alternatively clean with brake cleaner, spray with silicone or any light grease afterwards and cover in flour (what flour?! yes flour) have a little drive and than you see exactly where the oil went...but you will have a messy garage...and I actually think you should be able to find your problem way more easy.

 

[swexlin]

correct me if I'm wrong, but the rear main seal is at the back of the engine and the timingchain gasket and oil cooler lines are both at the front...if you are not sure to exclude one of both...you are not looking very well are you?

Here is what I did on my 92. put the car on the lift, clean her up real good underneath, turn eninge on and rev it pretty heavily to create the load on the engine you need to have it seep. that's how I found out my timing chain was leaking at the top of the engine, right where you can't see it...so I was thinking it came from the front of the pan all the time.
When you drive the car the oil will wave all the way to the back, but if it would be the rear main seal, you won't find any oil at the front!

if you really can't find the source, you could alternatively clean with brake cleaner, spray with silicone or any light grease afterwards and cover in flour (what flour?! yes flour) have a little drive and than you see exactly where the oil went...but you will have a messy garage...and I actually think you should be able to find your problem way more easy.

Thank you Roy. Over the last couple years, I've tried all that. Most of the time, it seemed the oil was at the front of the pan, and also on the A/C hose. After we replaced the gasket, it seemed fine until recently. Now it seems like there may be a little more at the back of the pan, at least when we had it on the lift a couple weeks ago. That's why I (and Steve) are pretty perplexed.

I think your idea of someone in the car while running, while someone underneath looks, is a pretty good idea. Looking at the engine from the topside (hood up) even getting down in there with a small flashlight, we see nothing. Steve says "live with it", but I'm way anal, LOL!

 

[Roy]

I know where you are coming from, I am very, very allergic to oil on the wrong side of the aluminum or steel...people tend to say, if it doesn't drip, it is sweating and not a problem, allthough this is certainly true as no engine ever lost enough oil by sweating to starve...but I always want it gone as it will always become worse and become a real leak...so why not fix it right away, nothing so embarassing as driving away with your supercar and people find a puddle of oil left on the street.

Off course in your case it might well be possible that in this time you have 2 sweating area's, the main seal at the back and the problem at the front. If the sweating isn't too bad, I think I would leave the back for what it is untill you need to be there anyway, it is a sh*t job. Timing chain though is pretty straight forward, and you'll be able to put the Roe cracnk bolt assembly in there, to avoid it coming loose, that off course only when this turns out to be the problem. Make sure you have a big, big torque wrench for the crank bolt, it is lots of nm on it.

 

[swexlin]

I know where you are coming from, I am very, very allergic to oil on the wrong side of the aluminum or steel...people tend to say, if it doesn't drip, it is sweating and not a problem, allthough this is certainly true as no engine ever lost enough oil by sweating to starve...but I always want it gone as it will always become worse and become a real leak...so why not fix it right away, nothing so embarassing as driving away with your supercar and people find a puddle of oil left on the street.

Off course in your case it might well be possible that in this time you have 2 sweating area's, the main seal at the back and the problem at the front. If the sweating isn't too bad, I think I would leave the back for what it is untill you need to be there anyway, it is a sh*t job. Timing chain though is pretty straight forward, and you'll be able to put the Roe cracnk bolt assembly in there, to avoid it coming loose, that off course only when this turns out to be the problem. Make sure you have a big, big torque wrench for the crank bolt, it is lots of nm on it.

Thanks Roy, you and I are of like minds! Appreciate the insight.

 

[swexlin]

So here's two pics of where it's coming from, at the back of the pan. This is one of the bolts that holds on the (I think?) transmission housing cover:

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[hd13]

What was the fix ?

 

[swexlin]

What was the fix ?

Nothing yet. It's a mystery. Just monitoring for now.