Need help with my shaft and knob.

[anaconda666]

I have a 1998 GTS and was wondering if my shifter is stock. I want to install a short shifter - if I don't have one all ready. Hope these pics can help. Looks like original rivets on boot - they have not been drilled out. Thanks, Ron

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Travel from 1st gear to 2nd:

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[Sssssss]

Need help with shaft and knob bhahaha was scared to click

But this is what my stock shaft looked like (97) so your shaft maybe upgraded not sure about the whole shifter my short throw looks a bit different than your shifter

 

[Sssssss]

This is my b&m

 

[BlackSnake99]

Never met a guy who wanted a shorter shaft.

 

[AJ02]

I would guess you have a short shifter. I don't think the knob would be that low with just the MGW shift knob. I have a Hurst short shifter that I even cut 2" off of and re threaded with an MGW shift knob and it's not that close to the console.

 

[AZTVR]

I have a 1998 GTS and was wondering if my shifter is stock. I want to install a short shifter - if I don't have one all ready. Hope these pics can help. Looks like original rivets on boot - they have not been drilled out. Thanks, Ron

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But this is what my stock shaft looked like (97) so your shaft maybe upgraded not sure about the whole shifter my short throw looks a bit different than your shifter

I would say that anaconda666 most likely has a B&M shifter. My observation from my OEM and B&M are the following: The horizontal piece that the shaft screws into on the OEM has rounded smooth edges as Sssssss' picture of his OEM shows. My B&M has sharply defined square edges on that horizontal piece like anaconda666's picture shows.

Many people have posted that one advantage of the B&M over the Hurst is the ability to install it from underneath the car, so, no rivet drilling is involved.

Edit: I do have to add that the picture of my B&M that I found does not look EXACTLY like the photo of the OP shifter. The transition from the end curve to the straight sides is less pronounced on mine. That could be just a difference between years of manufacture. The OEM does have a courve/transition more like the OP's. So, I guess it's not so obvious until you see the actual housing.

 

[anaconda666]

So it looks like I have an aftermarket shift assembly. I probably will drill out the rivets for a closer look and replace them with rivnuts. I don't particularly like the feel of the shifter. It is not notchy enough. I have a short shifter in my SRT-4 that has much more feel. I can sometimes have trouble finding 3rd gear with the Viper.

 

[Fatboy 18]

YOUR NOT THE ONLY ONE. I have trouble shifting down rapidly coming into a corner trying to select the correct gear. I did have a stock shifter with a shortened shaft, that was not bad but still not great, then I shortened the shaft even more, ....Don't do it it was bloody dangerous, I missed some serious shifts causing the rear to lock up! Not Good! I now have a Hurst Shifter Its very stiff and clunky, not the sort of thing you want to use on a daily drive IMO. Its better but I still have trouble down shifting at speed into a corner. I may get slated for this but I would rather have a paddle system so you know exactly what gear your going into. I even looked at the Quaife sequential box, but its a hell of a price

 

[Vic]

YOUR NOT THE ONLY ONE. I have trouble shifting down rapidly coming into a corner trying to select the correct gear. I did have a stock shifter with a shortened shaft, that was not bad but still not great, then I shortened the shaft even more, ....Don't do it it was bloody dangerous, I missed some serious shifts causing the rear to lock up! Not Good! I now have a Hurst Shifter Its very stiff and clunky, not the sort of thing you want to use on a daily drive IMO. Its better but I still have trouble down shifting at speed into a corner. I may get slated for this but I would rather have a paddle system so you know exactly what gear your going into. I even looked at the Quaife sequential box, but its a hell of a price

Reminds me- It has been stated by SRT, that a dual-clutch paddle shifter is in development for the Gen 5. That's when I will pull the trigger, and buy one. Sure, manuals are more purist, yada, yada, but I'm into moving up in the world, and getting with the times. I don't regret the shift away from wooden wheels, or lament the demise of silent movies. I'm focused on the future!

 

[anaconda666]

I have heard that the MGW short shifter is good. Have done a lot of searches for info on it but can't find any definitive answers on how it works on a gen II and whether you have to modify/remove your ashtray to fit it in. As I understand it is for the newer cars but can be used on older - and maybe Woodhouse stocks them? Any light would be appreciated. Ron.

 

[AJ02]

The Hurst I shortened is very smooth and easy. I usually don't even move my whole hand when shifting just driving around town, just my fingers. When I do use my hand, I usually just use my palm and it goes right into gear.

 

[Fatboy 18]

Well there must be some other factors that affect the shifting because with my Hurst you need a strong arm! Old shifter a girl could drive it, no spring action at all in the shifter. New Hurst shifter I use most of my arm strength to get the car into reverse! Its a Killer! Heavy spring action in both directions.

 

[AJ02]

That's wierd! I just had the big knuckle in my right index finger replaced on the 12th and still have a soft cast on it. I can shift my car with no pain at all. Very little effort.

 

[Matt M PA]

I'm thinking the original poster may have something similar to what I've done in both of my cars. That is, to remove the factory isolator and replace it with a shorter shaft. I can post pictures if it helps, but the isolator reminds me of a closed umbrella that screws into the lever on the trans..then the knob threads onto the isolator. It is there to remove vibration.

There was a guy making a threaded piece in shorter lengths with the correct threads at each end, and I've made a new solid piece with wrench flats, etc, since they didn't seem to be made any longer. (we tried to sell them, but there was little interest) It shortens the throw, but also firms the feel since the rubber filled isolator is removed. If you add a knob like the MGW with this "isolator replacement"... I think it's too short...but to each their own.

With this mod in both a '96 RT and '00 GTS...it's not hard to shift into reverse, etc...hope this helps. I have pics of the factory piece and my replacement if anyone wants to see.

 

[s55c]

Some time back there was a post about changing spring pressure on a bolt next to the shifter, on the side of the case... supposed to smooth it out and take out some of the effort and clunkiness....... am I remembering correctly or is my sometimers' kicking in.. and if so who remembers what to do??????'

 

[AJ02]

If I remember correctly, there are set screws on each side where the springs go in. I would think one might be able to adjust the tension by either screwing the set screw in for more tension or out for less. I've been wrong once or twice before, though.

 

[anaconda666]

Pics with rubber seal removed:

After 30 min of drilling out rivets this was the first thing I saw:

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Anybody recognise this shifter?

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[Fatboy 18]

Well its definitely not a stock shifter!

 

[AZTVR]

Definitely not the model B&M shifter that I have (bought maybe 2 years ago)

 

[anaconda666]

The mystery continues...

 

[anaconda666]

Well after 2 weeks of searching the internet I finally found a B&M Short shifter. Hard to find since they have been discountinued for a while.