Need input on stereo design

[Daffy]

I guess it's that time of year, winter is nearing & so the cold weather projects start creeping up. One of mine is to upgrade the sound system, so I went to my local Audio Connection store & they prescribed a system based on the following; I want it to retain stock look as much as possible, I really want to have a decent sound at speed with the top off - no desire to have a "killer" system or anything. This is their design & any input on it is welcomed.

6.5 inch MB Quart speakers in the doors with accompanying tweeters.
6.5 inch Kicker sub in the center, over the little compartment.
Rockford Fosgate 600 watt amp, 300 to speakers, 300 to sub.

Does this sound like a decent design?
I wasn't sure about the kicker in the center, I went in thinking I would get a mid-range there to help the door speakers & put a baby tube on the passenger foot well - what do you think about the center placed sub?
I may do an MP3 capable head unit later as well.

Thanks,

Dave. (the total with labor came in at about $1200, w/o a head unit that is)

 

[Daffy]

Thanks for the tips, Brian.


I was also wondering if I can upgrade in stages .. upgrade my speakers only, then the amp later?


thanks,

Dave.

 

[RECOIL]

My bud just looked at Eclipse and Kenwood speakers. Sorry, I don't have the exact model numbers.

He opted for Kenwood because the "highs" were clearer and more crisp. He had to get a powerful sub though -- to bring more "bass" and mid-range sound.

I've heard good things about Eclipse too -- but I did notice they were not as "crisp" on the "highs" -- more of a mid-range speaker. I do not know if this varies from model to model within the same family (my little disclaimer).

I have no idea how MB would fare into this. I have heard of guys replacing their stock speakers with MB and nothing else -- and singing their praise of doing so.

I'm thinking of doing that myself.

Steve

 

[Gerald]

300 watts to the little 6.5" sub in the center that will put out no bass? Not a good idea. That speaker will give out at 1/5th volume if running bass. There is no airspace back there. Do not expect an OUNCE of deep bass. BASS makes a system, remember that. Ever listen to a stereo without bass then turn the bass on? WOW..

THE BEST way to get good bass from an RT is to put an 8" or 10" in the foot well. Make the box wedge shaped and buy a woofer that requires the LEAST amount of airspace. A good stereo install shop will know what to get. Then just put a good full range speaker in the middle isstead of a 6.5" sub. Run a good quality amp to the mid's and highs (6.5" in doors, tweeters and 6.5" in center) and 1 seperate 200 to 300 watt amp to the sub in the footwell. LIke Brian said, also do NOT expect bass with the top off. So if you drive with your top off all the time, don't invest too much money in a sub and box in the footwell..
Hope that helped..
And the biggest difference you can make and easiest is a nice headunit.

Gerald

 

[Daffy]

Thanks for the info guys & the url to dig for more.


Gerald, you really nailed what I thought it what take - they surprised me at the shop with the kicker in the center design.

Question on a sub unit, how would a tube, like a 6-8 inch self amplified bazooka tube do strapped in the passenger foot well?


thanks again,

Dave.

 

[Gerald]

They are just ok. Can't put too much power to them.
I would highly recommend a box in the passenger foot area.
I've had plenty of bazooka tubes and for the $, like I said, they are just OK

Gerald

 

[ACELLR8]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Daffy:
Thanks for the info guys & the url to dig for more.


Gerald, you really nailed what I thought it what take - they surprised me at the shop with the kicker in the center design.

Question on a sub unit, how would a tube, like a 6-8 inch self amplified bazooka tube do strapped in the passenger foot well?


thanks again,

Dave.

I have a 6" Bazooka in the passenger side floor board. Sounds very good for the amount of base I wanted. The one I have is not self amplified I have it bridged over two channels of my Alpine Expert Series V-12 amp. The two door speakers I went with polk components and have them on the two other channels of the amp. The two speakers between the seats I went with Polks as well for fill.
Over all the system sounds very good for what I have invested in it.
I agree with Gerald the base makes the system sound good. Every now and then, I might unhook the bazooka on the passenger side floor board and the sound differance is night and day. The bazooka can be a pain on the passenger side floor. If I am driving obviously I do not mind it, but when my wife is driving and I have to sit over there for any amount of time I do not like it.
I have also tried a 12" in the trunk, it to me just did not give a good enough sound to the cabin of the car.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

 

[Brian Denham]

That price sounds a bit on the high side to me. My bet is that it's the mb quart speakers. They are a very good name brand high quality speaker for certain, but too pricey for me. Since this is a totally subjective decision on your part, just make every effort to listen to different speakers before you decide. Also remember they will sound much differently in your car as compared to the showroom. I was fortunate enough to be able to listen to the speakers I bought in the shop owners viper before my purchase! Be careful that they are not trying to talk you into the most expensive stuff they have just because you drove up in a viper

I have been very happy with my eclipse speakers.

On your question of using a 6.5" sub in the center or a full range with sub in the footwell....I would think that either way would be fine. If retaining the stock look of the car is important to you then go with the center console mounted kicker sub. Just note that you will not be able to hear the bass from either method with the top off. One thing I would suggest is to get a new headunit. Make sure it has at least a 4.5v pre-amp signal on the rca's and having a 3rd non-fading set to control the sub volume is a nice feature. Lets you control the sub seperately from the regular speaker volume. Built in crossovers on the headunit is nice also, but on the amps is fine as well.

Good luck!

 

[LTHL VPR]

Have this shop installed a system in the Viper before?
With MB Quart 6.5" in he doors they will have to trim the plastic and metal slightly for them to fit flush, allow the grills to fit, and to close the door properly. They are great speakers though, and the most often used at car audio competitions and shows. They also come with some VERY NICE crossovers you can use in conjunction with your amp.

As for the Subs, I believe JL Audio just came out with a 6 1/2" 'sub'. If you go with Kicker (which I use in my GTS), I would try their FreeAir 6.5" or, if you don't mind some slight cutting, you'll love their Square 8" sub. Since, it's mounted in the 'center console', you won't need as much juice for this size as you would if it were mounted in the trunk. I would go with at least 300W RMS.

As for Amps, Rockford Power amps work great for subs, but I don't prefer them for mids and highs as they are not as clean, clear, and crisp as other amps. I chose XTant for my mids and rears. These amps are solid, flexible and again a top choice at competitions. Otherwise, Precision Power, McIntosh, and Phoenix Gold work great for mids and highs.

The real advice I have for you.... Listen to all the speakers yourself with the amps you are interested in. You would be surprised at how different a speaker can sound just by switching amps. In the end, pick the best combination based upon YOUR EAR and your wallet.
You can call me and chat about any questions you may have. 408.562.1000.
Thanks!
-Wayne

 

[Daffy]

Wow, a ton of good info, thanks guys.

Dave.