Dutchman
Viper Owner
Only have 4 inches of front clearance due to front splitter. Can be open or closed trailer. Any recommendations?
Need trailer to haul my 2008 ACR
- Thread starter Dutchman
- Start date
TrackAire
Enthusiast
Only recommend an enclosed trailer, period. If you like to travel with your car it is fantastic security knowing your car, tools, tires, etc are out of harms way, the weather, etc. Plus the trailer is a portable shelter at the track if you need shade or to escape from the wind or rain. It's also great to move furniture, pick up a new tv or couch, etc. No more heaving crap into the back of a pickup truck. Roll it in, strap it down and off you go.
I use Race Ramps to extend my ramp approach and decrease the angle. With 4" of clearance, you'll have room to spare. My trailer ramp has a fold out extension flap that makes rolling stuff into it with a handtruck, etc smooth with no **** at the edge of the ramp to heave stuff over. Race Ramps makes a 74" long ramp that has an flap cutout to match up perfectly to the trailers extension flap at the end of the ramp. See their part number RR-TR-7-FLP.
I don't have an ACR but my car is lowered and the plastic mini spoilers in front of each tire only have 1 5/8" clearance from the ground and I don't rub anything with these raceramps while loading.
There are tons of discussions on the forum regarding trailers, tie downs, etc.
Good luck with your search.
Cheers,
George
I use Race Ramps to extend my ramp approach and decrease the angle. With 4" of clearance, you'll have room to spare. My trailer ramp has a fold out extension flap that makes rolling stuff into it with a handtruck, etc smooth with no **** at the edge of the ramp to heave stuff over. Race Ramps makes a 74" long ramp that has an flap cutout to match up perfectly to the trailers extension flap at the end of the ramp. See their part number RR-TR-7-FLP.
I don't have an ACR but my car is lowered and the plastic mini spoilers in front of each tire only have 1 5/8" clearance from the ground and I don't rub anything with these raceramps while loading.
There are tons of discussions on the forum regarding trailers, tie downs, etc.
Good luck with your search.
Cheers,
George
Richie7
Viper Owner
I use a featherlite 17.5 foot open aluminum. Nice and light so i can tow it with my SUV. The ramps are pretty long and the trailer gives a decent load angle. I use race ramps under the trailer ramps and have room to spare under my front splitter. I would love an enclosed but for now this is better for me because it is smaller, less expensive, and much lighter.
TowDawg
Enthusiast
Hell, you can pick up a pretty nice enclosed trailer for the price of an open aluminum one (or even cheaper), but weight is the problem.
I thought about an aluminum trailer for mine, but since I had towed open steel trailers without a problem before I bought mine, I went the steel route for the cost savings. I put a huge toolbox on the front that is as wide as the car, so it stops any sandblasting that might normally occur with an open trailer. Plus, I can fit everything I need in it except for spare wheels/tires, which have to go in the tow vehicle for now. I'll build a tire rack onto the trailer this winter though.
I thought about an aluminum trailer for mine, but since I had towed open steel trailers without a problem before I bought mine, I went the steel route for the cost savings. I put a huge toolbox on the front that is as wide as the car, so it stops any sandblasting that might normally occur with an open trailer. Plus, I can fit everything I need in it except for spare wheels/tires, which have to go in the tow vehicle for now. I'll build a tire rack onto the trailer this winter though.
robiferretti
Enthusiast
Before just throwing out the ideal weekender rig, a few answers will help steer you in the best direction.
How often will you be towing? How far will you likely be towing? and you will be pulling the trailer with what?
How often will you be towing? How far will you likely be towing? and you will be pulling the trailer with what?
Slithr
Enthusiast
George made some very good points on enclosed vs. open, but if you decide to go open, here is a recent thread with info on a Sloan trailer.
http://forums.viperclub.org/threads/658836-Open-aluminum-trailer-needed.
http://forums.viperclub.org/threads/658836-Open-aluminum-trailer-needed.
redtanrt10
Enthusiast
I've got the same set up and the Race ramps are the best clearance solution. ACR and trailer weigh less than 5K so lot's of choices on tow vehicles. Buy a clean used featherlite and you can sell it down the road for almost what you paid for it. Enclosed are great, but need a strong tow rig and harder to store. If you go enclosed, get a 24' Good luck, Mike
Dutchman
Viper Owner
Sorry have not been able to get back to the forum until now. Thanks for the great suggestions. Have a large Toyota truck so weight will not be a problem. Thanks to your suggeStions I will go with an enclosed trailer. Want to use it to go to car shows, some track events. As I am now able to work less than full time may go cross country and unload the ACR to take sceNic cruises.
I recently used a friend's open trailer to bring my car to Dallas. Went back to pick it up with an enclosed trailer & and burned twice as much fuel. BIG difference.
robiferretti
Enthusiast
Enclosed much better for distance towing. I would get a 24' and a set of race ramps. Wouldn't be a bad idea to get a winch so you have a fully capable rig.
AZTVR
Enthusiast
It would be good to hear a little extra info. Pulling what size enclosed trailer with what vehicle and enigine? Just wondering why the fuel mileage dropped by half. It makes a difference if it was a small SUV pulling a 28 foot trailer, or a 3/4 ton truck pulling a 22 foot trailer.
( I went with an overkill set-up so that I could handle future wants. )
Matt M PA
Enthusiast
I have a 1995 (ordered new) 22' enclosed Haulmark. Orignally ordered for a Superbird..but the Vipers work fine as well as my '72 Plymouth.
I did a few things to my trailer that made it much more "friendly" when loading, etc. First...be sure to order the trailer "****** tailed". This means the last 4 feet or so of the floor slope to the rear. Makes a much easier angle for lower cars. (While not a problem for Vipers, it also allows more clearanace coming into the trailer by the door assist spring.)
I also made risers on the floor where the car's tires go to add an extra 1" or so to aid in strapping the car down as well as clearance at the escape door.
My trailer's ramp door came with a short hinged extension that flips out. I made a new one 4' long...and added taller bumpers on the door where it touched the ground when open. Plenty of clearance now for the Vipers. Plus, no extra ramps, etc to deal with. I can e-mail or post pics if it's a help.
While MPG of the tow vehicle is a concern...the safety of the vehicle being towed is far more important and I'd use nothing but an enclosed trailer. Also does great double duty...mine has our porch furniture in it now for the winter.
Speaking of MPG, I tow with a V10 Excursion. On a trip to Michigan a few years ago with the trailer we did some mileage checks. If I kept the speed closer to 60MPH I got 12. Closer to 70MPH...7. Considering that ST (trailer tires) have a max rating of 65...seems like a no-brainer to me.
One final note. If you can buy new...they should ask you for a measurement from the rear of your car to the rear of the driver's door. This is so they can appropriately place the escape door. An escape door allows you to drive the car in....open the car door into the hole created from the opened escape door...and get out.
As said before, my trailer was built for my then Superbird, and the escape door placed accordingly. The Vipers need to pull further in for me to use the escape door. I notice more tonque weight when my '72 is inside. Enough in fact, that I need to use the weight distributing bars with the Vipers and not with the Plymouth...which has everything to do with the load being placed optimally in the trailer. Don;t underestimate how much difference there is when towing simply by where the cargo is placed in the trailer. I guess the point is that if you are buying used...try to find one that "fits" the Viper.
I did a few things to my trailer that made it much more "friendly" when loading, etc. First...be sure to order the trailer "****** tailed". This means the last 4 feet or so of the floor slope to the rear. Makes a much easier angle for lower cars. (While not a problem for Vipers, it also allows more clearanace coming into the trailer by the door assist spring.)
I also made risers on the floor where the car's tires go to add an extra 1" or so to aid in strapping the car down as well as clearance at the escape door.
My trailer's ramp door came with a short hinged extension that flips out. I made a new one 4' long...and added taller bumpers on the door where it touched the ground when open. Plenty of clearance now for the Vipers. Plus, no extra ramps, etc to deal with. I can e-mail or post pics if it's a help.
While MPG of the tow vehicle is a concern...the safety of the vehicle being towed is far more important and I'd use nothing but an enclosed trailer. Also does great double duty...mine has our porch furniture in it now for the winter.
Speaking of MPG, I tow with a V10 Excursion. On a trip to Michigan a few years ago with the trailer we did some mileage checks. If I kept the speed closer to 60MPH I got 12. Closer to 70MPH...7. Considering that ST (trailer tires) have a max rating of 65...seems like a no-brainer to me.
One final note. If you can buy new...they should ask you for a measurement from the rear of your car to the rear of the driver's door. This is so they can appropriately place the escape door. An escape door allows you to drive the car in....open the car door into the hole created from the opened escape door...and get out.
As said before, my trailer was built for my then Superbird, and the escape door placed accordingly. The Vipers need to pull further in for me to use the escape door. I notice more tonque weight when my '72 is inside. Enough in fact, that I need to use the weight distributing bars with the Vipers and not with the Plymouth...which has everything to do with the load being placed optimally in the trailer. Don;t underestimate how much difference there is when towing simply by where the cargo is placed in the trailer. I guess the point is that if you are buying used...try to find one that "fits" the Viper.
Gus Strakes
Enthusiast
As stated above, it's all about how you plan to use it. For me, my 18' Aluminum open trailer works best. A few months ago I hauled my VOI9 from Maryland to Florida with our Expedition (http://forums.viperclub.org/threads/657176-Took-a-Viper-South), and got 14 MPG staying around 70 MPH most of the way. In Florida, I keep the trailer in my garage (community restricts car and boat trailers being stored outside in the driveway), and I couldn't do that with an enclosed trailer. I'll be hauling the Viper back up to Maryland in the Spring with our Armada, and I'll be curious to see what kind of gas mileage I get with that. At home in Maryland, I use the trailer for all kinds of things besides hauling cars, again things I couldn't do with an enclosed trailer.
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It was a 2011 Ford F250 Gas engine, two wheel drive. Did between 65 & 70 mph. both trips. Trailer was a 26 ft. And a flat front section.
Dutchman
Viper Owner
Thanks again for all the info. Unfortunately I just sold a five acre homE in an equestrian community so I will now have to find a storage yard when I get a trailer. Again I will definitely go with an enclosed trailer due to security but also as some of you mentioned it would be useful to haul othEr things.
