Need water pump and gasket

[justme]

Hi all

My name is Dean and I purchased a 2002 RT10 last April (59,000 K miles). I have been able to figure out most of the problems using VPA. I am in the process of replacing the water pump and gasket because of heating problems (I've already replaced the thermostat, flushed the system and added coolant using a vacuum pump. The car is still running a little on the hot side so I would like to replace the water pump with an OE unit. My problem is Chrysler is out of stock until 8-16, so I'm wondering if anyone knows where I can get a pump and gasket?

Justme
Cleveland Ohio

 

[CEJ]

Does it run hot consistently or just when you're hammering it? From what I remember, if you had a bad pump, the coolant would get very hot when operating the engine at higher RPMs. Back off on the gas and the coolant temp dropped quickly.

59 million miles is pretty impressive for the original pump!

 

[justme]

Woops, 59 million is overstated


Had no heating problems since purchase, then all of a sudden got on the freeway (driving normally) and I see the temp at 250 and the light was on. Started to coast to the side of the road and the temp drops back to 190, rode home in 6th gear (with the heater on) and the temp fluctuated between 190 and 250 (heat up and drop back). When I got home popped the hood and noticed the coolant and overflow bottles were empty. Filled them up and burped the system same problem. Took the car to a shop I have been using and they replaced the thermostat, flushed the system and refilled using a vacuum pump to prevent air bubbles. Prior to preforming all that the shop said the engine was hot and the radiator was cool, after the thermostat transplant both the engine and radiator heated the same. The shop stated "coolant is flowing threw the system", but it may not be enough to keep temp steady (I also changed the radiator cap) . The heater blows hot air, but the AC does not cool like it use to, I purchased one of those bottles to add gas but haven't done it yet. I don't see any coolant leaks in the garage, but admittedly wasn't checking the bottle. I let the car run in the driveway at 2000 RPM for awhile, the temp rose just over 190 - 210, but when I opened the hood the engine compartment was hot, but not real hot or boiling over. The head gaskets seem to be good (shop checked that), so that leaves the water pump. I would really like to have my Viper this weekend for my 50th high school reunion but Chrysler is out of water pumps until the 16th of August. The shop I use is really good but he doesn't like aftermarket products. I checked the web and found a DriveWorks unit (that is form, fit and function) but don't know if I am just buying trouble.

That's my story
Justme

 

[Dan Cragin]

The aftermarket water pumps are just as good.

 

[CEJ]

Yup, that does sound like a bad water pump. Not familiar with the Driveworks, but if it uses a Mopar casting and rebuilds with new bearings, seals, etc, it should be okay.

Flip side is to wait for the Mopar unit, but Mopar has a very nasty habit of setting a delivery date and then when that date passes, they push it out another month. So it may be August, it may be next June. No telling when they will run another batch.

See if Driveworks warrants the pump against failure as long as you own it. If so, what the heck, give it a try!

Or just go to the reunion in your daily driver and have fun with folks you've not seen in a long time. 50th reunion...that's pretty cool.

 

[ROCKET62]

From your 2nd post - where did the coolant go? Is it seeping out of the water pump or any noticeable leaks? You have checked your oil correct - as there was an issue with the timing cover gaskets in the earlier Gen 2's?

 

[Viper Specialty]

From your 2nd post - where did the coolant go? Is it seeping out of the water pump or any noticeable leaks? You have checked your oil correct - as there was an issue with the timing cover gaskets in the earlier Gen 2's?

What he said. Figure out where it went, and if you are near the timing cover anyway, get all of those paper gaskets out of there and go AFM-type before you *DO* end up with a problem.

 

[VIPER BAZ UK]

Just done a 97 GTS that was loosing water .... Drained the oil and got 14ltrs out.. Found it!!!!!

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

I replaced my water pump a couple months ago with NAPA.

 

[Ron]

Rock Auto: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1362158,parttype,2208

 

[AJ02]

Rock Auto has them , but when mine arrived it had Made In China bigger than life in the casting. I couldn't do it. Luckily, VPA had an OEM.

 

[justme]

Thanks for the input

We pulled the water pump and it looked fine, no impeller problems. Replaced the gasket and bolted it back in. Next:

1) Put two different types of solution in the radiator to detect hydro-carbons in the coolant with negative results.
2) I had changed the oil less than thirty days age (prior to my over heating problem) no extra fluid then and the oil looks clean and the level on the dip stick is good.
3) Flushed the radiator and replaced the coolant with a vacuum system to make sure we had no air bubbles.
4) Pulled the heater hose and at idle the coolant flowed, but when you increased the RPM's the coolant flow stopped.
5) When you start the car the temp goes past 190 and the coolant starts coming out the radiator cap (new cap)
6) Tomorrow we are going to pull the thermostat and try to run the car and see what happens.

If someone can think of something I forgot please let me know. The coolant res. and overflow bottle were empty when the over heating problem began, but no sign where the coolant went or how long they were empty. The AC started blowing warmer air and I have not added the new gas yet.

Any help would be appreciated
Dean

 

[speedracervr4]

. The coolant res. and overflow bottle were empty when the over heating problem began, but no sign where the coolant went or how long they were empty.
Dean

Sounds like you have a leak or the engine is burning coolant. I can understand the overflow being empty (some don't even know about it), but the coolant reservoir should not have been empty. I would rent a pressure tester and test the system for leaks.

I assume you ensured the fans are working properly.

How much fluid is coming out of the radiator cap? It will push a small amount of fluid when hot and pull it back in once it cools down.

 

[AJ02]

Check your bottom radiator hose to see if it collapses when you increase the RPMs. If you have flow at idle and not when you rev it, this might be a problem. If the water pump can't get coolant, then there's none to push through the system. (I know it's not a Viper) but on my C3 Vette this was a problem. Some of the aftermarket hoses get soft and collapse when the pump demands more coolant. Just food for thought. Art

 

[GTLaser]

Don't get a Rock Auto, mine lasted two hundred miles. Went back to OEM.

 

[justme]

Hi All

Thanks for all the input and especially to Chuck Tator for the time he spent, on the phone with us. The problem turned out to be the water pump (the initial inspection showed the impeller was good, but that turned out to be wrong). We replaced the factory pump with a Bosch (from Amazon.com, in stock and shipped overnight). The pump itself was form, fit and function with the factory unit and I was impressed with the quality. In total we replaced the thermostat, radiator (took the stock unit and rebuilt it to a three-core style) and of course the water pump. Took the car out for an extended ride (on a hot day) last week with no problems.

Thanks again
Dean

 

[AJ02]

Great news!!

 

[AZTVR]

Thanks for all the input and especially to Chuck Tator for the time he spent, on the phone with us. The problem turned out to be the water pump (the initial inspection showed the impeller was good, but that turned out to be wrong).

Dean, I would be interested to know how you checked the impeller initially, and why you thought that your water pump was OK, and then, how did you check it differently that proved to yourself that it was bad after talking to Chuck? I am not having dramatic overheating problems; but, did suspect maybe impeller issues. I had the radiator rodded out and replaced thermostat and went as far as removing the water pump and checking out the tightness of the impeller. The impeller felt secure; so, I didn't replace the water pump. It looked perfect. I still don't like the way the car's temperature is at high RPMs; but, one friend reports about the same as me and another friend reports better performance.

 

[justme]

Jim

Held the impeller and twisted the pulley, everything seemed tight. Rebuilt the radiator and removed the thermostat, still had real bad overheating problems.

Signs to look for:
1) Made sure we no air in the cooling system by sucking the coolant through the system with a vacuum pump.
2) We were looking at replacing the head gaskets
a) when we pressure tested it (both hot and cold) with no loss.
b) tested it twice for hydro-carbons, negative both times.
3) Monitored the coolant flow through the engine and noticed at idle the coolant ran faster than when the RPM's increased.
4) I had lost coolant from the system but no puddles or white smoke from the exhaust.

We were going to order parts from Chuck to redo the heads, and took one last shot at the pump. We applied a little more pressure to the pulley and the impeller started to twist on the shaft, a little less pressure and the impeller didn't move. Replaced the water pump with a Bosch and on a hot day (85 to 90 degrees) the car runs at the middle mark on the highway and middle to third mark in traffic.

Hope this helps
Dean

 

[AZTVR]

Jim
Held the impeller and twisted the pulley, everything seemed tight. Rebuilt the radiator and removed the thermostat, still had real bad overheating problems. Hope this helps
Dean

I appreciate the input. Can't remember how hard that I held the impeller vs turning the pulley. Maybe I will replace it just because. Since I do my own work, the cost is not that much since it still is a possibility, given your experience.

 

[justme]

Jim

I would be interested if that cured your problem, worst case you have an extra water pump.

Dean

 

[kenphjr]

ever check out where your stoptech rotors came from?

Rock Auto has them , but when mine arrived it had Made In China bigger than life in the casting. I couldn't do it. Luckily, VPA had an OEM.