new clutch time, any recommandations?

[*fill-up*]

It is about time I replace my clutch on my 03 viper, it has about 33k on it now and the clutch is starting to grip toward the end so would like to replace the clutch. I just had two questions to ask..

1. I am looking to purchase one of these kits, which one would you have recommend, or any others? My only mods are cams, and corsa exhaust.

MODERATOR EDIT- NO EBAY LINKS PLEASE http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-0...dge|Model:Viper|Year:2003&hash=item588f2f7cc9

2. My mechanic said it would roughly take him about 10hrs to change the clutch because he has never worked on a viper clutch. If anyone has any diy or tips those would be much appreciated!

Thanks!

 

[BAD BOYZZ GARAGE]

Go stock clutch with a light weight flywheel. Keep your engagement smooth and reduce rotational mass. You'll feel a quicker response from seat of pants. On the mechanic side of things, make sure he's competent and agree on a set price, then let your mechanic take his time. (2 cents worth)

If you need some tech help we're avaliable.


BAD BOYZZ GARAGE, INC.
Toddy

=DISTRIBUTORS OF POWER=

 

[Nitro187]

The XTR kit would be your only choice out of those two, as the second one is only for a Gen I\II... (even though it says 2003)

Sounds like Tod knows what he's talkin about though... I've never replaced a clutch..... yet. *knock on wood*

 

[99 R/T 10]

The XTR kit would be your only choice out of those two, as the second one is only for a Gen I\II... (even though it says 2003)

Actually, the clutches are all the same from 1992-2006.

 

[JonB]

It is about time I replace my clutch on my 03 viper, it has about 33k on it now and the clutch is starting to grip toward the end so would like to replace the clutch........... My mechanic said it would roughly take him about 10hrs to change the clutch because he has never worked on a viper clutch. If anyone has any diy or tips those would be much appreciated! Thanks!

505HP? Abused? Top-end pickup usually a clutch, but Might NOT be the clutch at all, with only 33K miles. I think your mechanic is going to school on you.....10 hours including a bleed is about 4 hours too much!

ALWAYS HAPPY to provide free advice to flea-bay shoppers...................

 

[steve911]

It is about time I replace my clutch on my 03 viper, it has about 33k on it now and the clutch is starting to grip toward the end so would like to replace the clutch. I just had two questions to ask..

1. I am looking to purchase one of these kits, which one would you have recommend, or any others? My only mods are cams, and corsa exhaust.

MODERATOR EDIT- NO EBAY LINKS PLEASE

2. My mechanic said it would roughly take him about 10hrs to change the clutch because he has never worked on a viper clutch. If anyone has any diy or tips those would be much appreciated!

Thanks!

Look up some of the members of the Illinois chapter and ask for help There are some many experienced Viper folks in your area its not funny. DONT let someone experiment on your car.

 

[David Pintaric]

We've changed clutches in less than four hours in the paddock of a race track...ten? Are ya kiddin' me?

 

[plumcrazy]

10 is a joke....no way it should be more than 4-5

stock clutch, stock flywheel (clean yours up)

 

[AbsolutHank]

If you aren't upgrading to big power, I'd go back stock for sure...you'll regret all the other compromises you have to make, and will wish for stock driveability again

 

[ulllose]

10 is a joke....no way it should be more than 4-5

stock clutch, stock flywheel (clean yours up)

Plum when you say clean yours up, you mean resurface? Just curious I'm not clear if you could resurface these or not. or should I say should

Thanks

 

[Garron]

Service manual says not to resurface. Lots of guys still do, never heard of anything bad happening.

 

[plumcrazy]

yeah, i was told not to resurface. just clean it and put it back in. i have 60K miles and a TON of those with more than stock power. no problems.

 

[jmbaileyniu]

Just changed out my clutch with a buddy in my Silver 2003. It was really easy (if you've done a clutch before). There really isn't anything tricky about it.....the people working on the car just need to really care about the end result. It took us 6 CASUAL hours of working on it and that included draining it and putting new fluid in. I put the Castrol Syntorq (recommended) in the transmission and had to go to the dealer to find it. The only hard parts were:
1. Getting the transmission separated from the back of the engine (it kept hanging up on the guide pins)
2. Lining up the input shaft when putting it back in. Having a $2 clutch alignment tool is required.
3. Finding the Castrol Syntorq transmission fluid

Make sure that you buy a new throw out bearing too....mine looked horrible. I ended up going with a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch/pressure plate with the matching throwout bearing. I just took mild sandpaper and lightly sanded the flywheel. There really wasn't anything on the surface, just heat discoloration. No warping or groves. I might be able to help out. My friend's garage is in Beloit, WI. and it makes the job much easier if you have a lift like he does. I have 500 miles on the new clutch and it feels much smoother than previously. My Viper has 37,000 miles on it and I can't believe how much more clutch pedal I have now.

 

[NZGTS]

Hi all

this is a good post, sorry to dig it up again, I am having to change out a popped slave cylinder and thought I might as well do the clutch if going to all the effort of pulling the gearbox.
I was going to get them both from ROE racing but the postage to New Zealand is a killer(not ROEs fault) I have been looking at the ones on ebay (LUK and F1 racing brands) and because they are cheaper I could handle(should I say my wife would be happier)paying the shipping.
I was wondering if any of you USA guys have every tried any of the two brands and have any comments. I would love to go OEM but New house has the wife holding my balls.

I would like to know if anyone in the USA has

 

[fqberful]

Hi all

this is a good post, sorry to dig it up again, I am having to change out a popped slave cylinder and thought I might as well do the clutch if going to all the effort of pulling the gearbox.
I was going to get them both from ROE racing but the postage to New Zealand is a killer(not ROEs fault) I have been looking at the ones on ebay (LUK and F1 racing brands) and because they are cheaper I could handle(should I say my wife would be happier)paying the shipping.
I was wondering if any of you USA guys have every tried any of the two brands and have any comments. I would love to go OEM but New house has the wife holding my balls.

I would like to know if anyone in the USA has

The LUK is an OEM brand and that's what was probably in there from the factory. The LUK is a really good clutch as long as you get the OEM spec'd one.

 

[Bill Pemberton Woodhouse]

Still recommend the old fluid check...............always amazed at how few check it, think they need a new clutch and the fluid is black and half full. Flush that out and see how things work if you have not changed the fluid in awhile.

 

[NZGTS]

def not fluid, I was backing out the drive "bang" peddle went to the floor,clutch fully engaged and I just got it turned off before I backed through the front fence.
Had a peek in the bell housing and slave all wet and horrible looking, pedal not returning. My GTS sits alot (9-12 months) at a time so I guess the seals dried out.

Cheers for the info on the LUK clutch, fantastic advice and help once again from the VCA guys.