Jeff Torrey
Enthusiast
Dan- Good luck with the car. Glad to here you driving and enjoying your car. Welcome to the club.
New Member and proud owner of a 2002 GTS ACR
- Thread starter Jeff Torrey
- Start date
VPRVENM97
Enthusiast
Dan,
Welcome to Viper Nation!!! Enjoy the car and enjoy modifying it. Just beware that its addictive like drugs...only more expensive.
Oh yeah, one more thing. You have to post pics.
Welcome to Viper Nation!!! Enjoy the car and enjoy modifying it. Just beware that its addictive like drugs...only more expensive.
Oh yeah, one more thing. You have to post pics.
Dan, on behalf of the "right coast", and the New Jersey Viper Club, we welcome you to the club. It is truely the best group of enthusiasts you can find anywhere and anytime. I have a 2K ACR and can tell you it is simply the greatest investment I have ever made. And wait until you get to meet all the great Viper nuts. Please keep in contact and best of luck with your new ride.
Bob Carroll
Treasurer, NJ Region
Bob Carroll
Treasurer, NJ Region
SERPENT INDIANA
Enthusiast
I have a twin to yours...yes, it is very hard to keep the velvet ropes around these cars....I have put a little over 2000 miles on mine since May....keep in mind, there ate only 22 like ours out there and I know of one that was heavily damaged....they are RARE....would suggest an aftermarket short throw shifter, exhaust and 355 gears...not alot of bucks, but it changes the cars personality a bunch...I also have a "Final Edition" ACR that is totally stock...no comparison in the personality of the two cars...ENJOY....
Nadine UK GTS
Enthusiast
Hi Dan, and congratulations on your Viper ownership, cool choice... (other than a '97 GTS
) 2002 ACR is the way to go.
The two things you've realized, snap! It was the same for me over 4 years ago when I first got my dream car...Viper Enjoy.
PS you won't want to drive anything less!
The two things you've realized, snap! It was the same for me over 4 years ago when I first got my dream car...Viper Enjoy.
PS you won't want to drive anything less!
Viper Wizard
Enthusiast
Dan, Congrats and Welcome!!
[Tony, what am I going to do with you?
]
[Tony, what am I going to do with you?
VIPR GTS
Viper Owner
Dan, Welcome to the addiction, you are lucky to have one of our best drug suppliers in your neighborhood, JonB, Parts Rack.
Spend, enjoy!
Spend, enjoy!
Wolf
Enthusiast
Dan,
Welcome aboard, I have had my car since 2000 and it was torture to get the engine broken in and when I heard other customer exhausts, I decided to get a cat back and it all rolled up from there.....headers, flywheel, brakes, etc....
Anyway, once you get started, you just can't stop.
Welcome aboard, I have had my car since 2000 and it was torture to get the engine broken in and when I heard other customer exhausts, I decided to get a cat back and it all rolled up from there.....headers, flywheel, brakes, etc....
Anyway, once you get started, you just can't stop.
Jason Heffner
Enthusiast
Apparently noone informed you of the rules, so I will. It is clearly stated in the Viper owners handbook on page 42, paragraph three under article 488: All new Viper owners that wish to post on the Viper club of America discussion forums and wish to maintain Viper Club of America member status must always without exception post pictures of his or her new Viper. Noncompliance with the handbook rules could have serious consequences. I'll look forward to seeing those pictures. Oh and enjoy that new Viper. Congratulations!
Vic
VCA Venom Member
- Joined
- Nov 12, 2000
- Posts
- 6,765
- Reaction score
- 1
When you go to the track, use 32 psi front, and 30 rear, for starters.
Change power steering fluid to Red Line brand, it handles the heat better, and I think it has a higher flash point.
Most road racers I know use Mobil 1, 15-50 weight. It stands up to the heat better.
Tighten your power steering cap after each run. Put a screw type hose clamp around the cap, to "lock" the threads. Put a hose on the vent ******, and route to the wheel well, or other place, to keep overspill from getting on the exhaust.
You have an ACR, so you already have the oil pan baffles, and higher pressure oil filter adapter.
Change brake fluid to Dot 4, maybe Motul 600, or Castrol. Ask Janni which type of Castrol, I dunno what its name is exactly.
Porsche air deflectors help blow the incident wind into the rotors, reducing fade and boiling the fluid. Various ducts have been fabricated. Ask around.
You can remove the sport shims where the front upper control arm bolts to the frame. This gives you something close to a degree of negative camber, good for the track, but don't drive around the street like this unless you are rich, and can afford new tires often. Removing the shims also gives you more toe-out, so its ok for a short tight track, but if you feel squirrely on a long fast straight, you can first mark, then rotate your tie rods (towards shortening), I think a turn, and reduce the dartiness that way.
Brake in a straight line. Heel toe downshift during straight line braking. Later, you may want to trail brake a little, when you are comfortable. Use the "outside, inside, outside" line technique through turns. Watch your apex as you are turning in, if possible. Looking far ahead will reduce your perception of speed, as it gives your brain time to process visual input.
Settle the car before turn in. (Either barely touch the brakes, or breathe on the throttle, (Dearing, Adelberg, Mumford, Wasserman, et al., will undoubtedly correct me here. I have heard of both methods for settling the car) After the car is settled, turn in. Hold a single, constant steering angle through the turn.
If the car is getting away from you, most street drivers instinctively lift off the gas suddenly. Don't do this, as it will transfer weight forward, the rears will get light, and the car will snap around, and hook off track, possibly into a wall.
Balance the car with the throttle. If the back end starts to slide out, gently give it more gas to transfer the weight to the rear tires. This will help them "stick".
Accelerate near apex, and the car will drift out, or track out.
Build up your speed gradually, as you learn the braking, turn-in, apex, and exit points. Use the whole track width. All your steering, throttle, shifting, and braking inputs should be smooth as possible. Don't **** the wheel, slam the shift lever, or trounce on the gas or brake. You do have to almost stand on the brake sometimes, but you still should do it smoothly.
If you are on a constant radius turn, (on street tires), and the tires and not squealing, you are not going fast enough! When the Michelin Pilot Sports start to squeal, you have about another 5 to 7 MPH left, before the limit of traction is reached. After you are familiar with the track, make those tires bark, or you are not near enough to the limit to get good times.
After the tires start to squeal, there is not much traction left for manuevering, so your inputs to the controls needs to be smooth. Have you ever driven on ice or snow? Then you understand how to be smooth and gentle at the limit.
If you go into a spin, push the clutch and the brake to the floor. This will keep it from stalling, so you can move quickly when it stops spinning. If you go off track, try not to stomp on the brake, just gently guide it back onto the track. Don't **** the wheel to steer it back to the track, just gently aim it back on. Or just let it stop off track! Don't freak out.
Check your oil often at the track. Hard braking sloshes the oil foward in the valve covers, and since the normal blow-by is vented into the intake, your car will swallow its own oil. (That sounded yucky!) Some people re-route the blow-by vents, so that the oil cannot slosh forward into the intake.
Watch your temp gauge on the straights, and check your gauges, loosen your death-grip on the wheel long enough to wiggle your fingers a bit. If it gets over 225, I turn on my heater, to help dissapate the heat. If it gets to 250, slow down, go up a gear to get the revs down, and find out why its running hot.
Don't use the brake during the cool down lap, after the checkered flag. Don't use the parking brake, just put it in gear. Let the rotors cool slowly. Never hose off a hot rotor, it will warp.
At California Speedway, I was really enjoying my day, when the water pump went out. It pumped at lower rpms, when the shaft had some little bit of friction, enough to spin the impeller, but at higher rpms, it freewheeled a bit, so there was no water circulation, and the temp gauge would soar. Got it replaced under warranty, but my weekend was over before it started. I think that was just an 01 anomally.
Red Line makes "water wetter", which helps heat transfer.
Keep it between the curbs, and welcome!
Change power steering fluid to Red Line brand, it handles the heat better, and I think it has a higher flash point.
Most road racers I know use Mobil 1, 15-50 weight. It stands up to the heat better.
Tighten your power steering cap after each run. Put a screw type hose clamp around the cap, to "lock" the threads. Put a hose on the vent ******, and route to the wheel well, or other place, to keep overspill from getting on the exhaust.
You have an ACR, so you already have the oil pan baffles, and higher pressure oil filter adapter.
Change brake fluid to Dot 4, maybe Motul 600, or Castrol. Ask Janni which type of Castrol, I dunno what its name is exactly.
Porsche air deflectors help blow the incident wind into the rotors, reducing fade and boiling the fluid. Various ducts have been fabricated. Ask around.
You can remove the sport shims where the front upper control arm bolts to the frame. This gives you something close to a degree of negative camber, good for the track, but don't drive around the street like this unless you are rich, and can afford new tires often. Removing the shims also gives you more toe-out, so its ok for a short tight track, but if you feel squirrely on a long fast straight, you can first mark, then rotate your tie rods (towards shortening), I think a turn, and reduce the dartiness that way.
Brake in a straight line. Heel toe downshift during straight line braking. Later, you may want to trail brake a little, when you are comfortable. Use the "outside, inside, outside" line technique through turns. Watch your apex as you are turning in, if possible. Looking far ahead will reduce your perception of speed, as it gives your brain time to process visual input.
Settle the car before turn in. (Either barely touch the brakes, or breathe on the throttle, (Dearing, Adelberg, Mumford, Wasserman, et al., will undoubtedly correct me here. I have heard of both methods for settling the car) After the car is settled, turn in. Hold a single, constant steering angle through the turn.
If the car is getting away from you, most street drivers instinctively lift off the gas suddenly. Don't do this, as it will transfer weight forward, the rears will get light, and the car will snap around, and hook off track, possibly into a wall.
Balance the car with the throttle. If the back end starts to slide out, gently give it more gas to transfer the weight to the rear tires. This will help them "stick".
Accelerate near apex, and the car will drift out, or track out.
Build up your speed gradually, as you learn the braking, turn-in, apex, and exit points. Use the whole track width. All your steering, throttle, shifting, and braking inputs should be smooth as possible. Don't **** the wheel, slam the shift lever, or trounce on the gas or brake. You do have to almost stand on the brake sometimes, but you still should do it smoothly.
If you are on a constant radius turn, (on street tires), and the tires and not squealing, you are not going fast enough! When the Michelin Pilot Sports start to squeal, you have about another 5 to 7 MPH left, before the limit of traction is reached. After you are familiar with the track, make those tires bark, or you are not near enough to the limit to get good times.
After the tires start to squeal, there is not much traction left for manuevering, so your inputs to the controls needs to be smooth. Have you ever driven on ice or snow? Then you understand how to be smooth and gentle at the limit.
If you go into a spin, push the clutch and the brake to the floor. This will keep it from stalling, so you can move quickly when it stops spinning. If you go off track, try not to stomp on the brake, just gently guide it back onto the track. Don't **** the wheel to steer it back to the track, just gently aim it back on. Or just let it stop off track! Don't freak out.
Check your oil often at the track. Hard braking sloshes the oil foward in the valve covers, and since the normal blow-by is vented into the intake, your car will swallow its own oil. (That sounded yucky!) Some people re-route the blow-by vents, so that the oil cannot slosh forward into the intake.
Watch your temp gauge on the straights, and check your gauges, loosen your death-grip on the wheel long enough to wiggle your fingers a bit. If it gets over 225, I turn on my heater, to help dissapate the heat. If it gets to 250, slow down, go up a gear to get the revs down, and find out why its running hot.
Don't use the brake during the cool down lap, after the checkered flag. Don't use the parking brake, just put it in gear. Let the rotors cool slowly. Never hose off a hot rotor, it will warp.
At California Speedway, I was really enjoying my day, when the water pump went out. It pumped at lower rpms, when the shaft had some little bit of friction, enough to spin the impeller, but at higher rpms, it freewheeled a bit, so there was no water circulation, and the temp gauge would soar. Got it replaced under warranty, but my weekend was over before it started. I think that was just an 01 anomally.
Red Line makes "water wetter", which helps heat transfer.
Keep it between the curbs, and welcome!
GTS Dean
Enthusiast
Dang Vic - Go easy on the man! After all, it's his first day out of the closet.
Dan - Great choice in rides and we're pleased to have you on board. Most everything Vic said is good advice, but it will take you a few trips to the track to begin to appreciate it - bit by bit. Definitely start with the minor brake upgrades and tire pressure recommendations. Do some track time with the area Viper guys and you won't regret it.
Since you have a late model ACR with the Dynamic shocks, I would seriously look into some softer rear springs - as they tend to be oversprung for the valving as delivered. It will help your rear tires stay in contact with the road and will be easier on your kidneys. Good springs are very reasonably priced and easy to change.
Dan - Great choice in rides and we're pleased to have you on board. Most everything Vic said is good advice, but it will take you a few trips to the track to begin to appreciate it - bit by bit. Definitely start with the minor brake upgrades and tire pressure recommendations. Do some track time with the area Viper guys and you won't regret it.
Since you have a late model ACR with the Dynamic shocks, I would seriously look into some softer rear springs - as they tend to be oversprung for the valving as delivered. It will help your rear tires stay in contact with the road and will be easier on your kidneys. Good springs are very reasonably priced and easy to change.
Vic
VCA Venom Member
- Joined
- Nov 12, 2000
- Posts
- 6,765
- Reaction score
- 1
I learned a lot from you, Dean, especially concerning toe out, and the sport shims.
What I have offered is not suppossed to be the definitive road racing course, just a little friendly "primer".
If someone had told me about the baffles before my first time on the track, my engine wouldn't ever have gone "clackety-clackety", after hard braking. I never knew my car would do that! My car was going to sit in my garage behind those "velvet ropes".
The time to know how to protect your investment is before you ever go to the track. So I'm gonna spill my guts, and blurt out anything that might be helpful, even though I'm a nobody!
There are so many people on the site who are so far advanced as road racers, I'm hesitant to even say anything! (For fear of getting jumped on!)
But if there is at least one thing in what I have said that helps somebody avoid damage or collision, then my post is worth it, even if what I have said isn't absolutely perfect.
Have fun, and stay safe!
What I have offered is not suppossed to be the definitive road racing course, just a little friendly "primer".
If someone had told me about the baffles before my first time on the track, my engine wouldn't ever have gone "clackety-clackety", after hard braking. I never knew my car would do that! My car was going to sit in my garage behind those "velvet ropes".
The time to know how to protect your investment is before you ever go to the track. So I'm gonna spill my guts, and blurt out anything that might be helpful, even though I'm a nobody!
There are so many people on the site who are so far advanced as road racers, I'm hesitant to even say anything! (For fear of getting jumped on!)
But if there is at least one thing in what I have said that helps somebody avoid damage or collision, then my post is worth it, even if what I have said isn't absolutely perfect.
Have fun, and stay safe!
8AVETTE
Enthusiast
The best of the last year of Gen 2 is the low production # ACR. Welcome and have a lot of fun with that car.
46hemi
Enthusiast
They did tell you the yellow ACR's were faster right? Especially without those newfangled A/C and Radio doo-hickeys. Good Luck!
Chuck 98 RT/10
Enthusiast
Vic - a total addict.
Welcome Dan.
Welcome Dan.
pauljkopick
Viper Owner
Hi Dan-welcome to the snake world,as good as it seems now it only gets BETTER.Saturday Nov. 9,at 2pm we have a washington state vca meeting at lynnwood dodge.Come early show us your acr ,meet everyone, check out our snakes,learn alot, have fun, go fast. regards, paul 01 gts,YLWJAKT
SC ACR
Enthusiast
Welcome Dan -
I have a 2002 ACR. Added TNT cats and exhaust and short throw shift... the exhaust is key because the sound is better than music ... it's awesome. Enjoy.
Oh yeah, most important get a good radar detector. I have a Valentine and it has saved me many a time.
Kevin
I have a 2002 ACR. Added TNT cats and exhaust and short throw shift... the exhaust is key because the sound is better than music ... it's awesome. Enjoy.
Oh yeah, most important get a good radar detector. I have a Valentine and it has saved me many a time.
Kevin
Welcome aboard! ... and as Jon B will surely tell you, first upgrade should be "tightening the nut behind the wheel".
Absolutely get some track time in, and you will not believe the pure power behind these beasts!
Absolutely get some track time in, and you will not believe the pure power behind these beasts!
