Noise in rear

[Quickkitty]

My 05 viper started producing a new noise. When I take a slow hard turn ( U-turn ) I get an ugly noise from the rear. At first I thought the plastic wheel well liner was loose and rubbing on the rear tire. I could not find anywhere the tire had come in contact with the liner. Then I noticed that if I have my foot in the gas while turning, I do not hear the rubbing/grinding noise. On a straight line, no noise. I did a quick visual of the rear diff and did not see anything that jumped out at me. Car only has 15,000 miles but not all of them easy
I am in need of some thoughts and suggestions.
Thanks
Jay

 

[wikkid]

You need to change the diff fluid. You need a bottle of LSD as well when you change it. There are many threads on this very topic

 

[Sonoman]

This can often be a case of the friction discs in your limited-slip differential grabbing and chattering. It may be time to change the rear-end lube and add a bottle of the Mopar friction modifier. There are a number of threads on this issue already. The noise happening in tight turns points to the diff more than to a tire rub, since during a turn you have the inner wheel turning slower than the outer wheel, which is one of the cases where differential gears are working to account for velocity differences in the left and right sides. The lube change interval on VIper rear ends is much shorter than on typical passenger cars, and the first change is usually recommended long before 15,000 miles.

 

[Quickkitty]

Thanks guys.
That is much better than I had expected. I will start by changing the fluid and the Mopar friction modifier. Should have time this weekend to give that a try.
Thanks again.
Jay

 

[wikkid]

Thanks guys.
That is much better than I had expected. I will start by changing the fluid and the Mopar friction modifier. Should have time this weekend to give that a try.
Thanks again.
Jay

Get yourself a decent hand pump, this job is not that tuff. Obviously put the modifier in first, this should help the noise.

 

[SYNFULL]

I would like to change my differential fluid as I doubt it has ever been done and car has 25k. I have ordered the fluid and limited slip additive, but not sure where the plug is that I have to drain fluid form. Do I have to remove the belly pan?

Thanks

 

[SYNFULL]

I guess I should also change the transmission fluid while I am at it. Don't have a service manual yet So can anyone tell me what fluid and amount needed.
Thanks

 

[klamathpro]

I just did both of these on both my cars. If your Dana rear end is the same as mine, there is no drain plug and you need to pump it out. Just FYI, if you're doing this job and need friction modifier fast, I used the O'Reilly's stuff in a 4oz bottle and it worked just fine in both my Vipers. $6. Also, Vavoline ATF+4 ($6 qt) and 75w-140 ($12 qt) are great alternatives to oem.

 

[Westxsrt10]

I guess I should also change the transmission fluid while I am at it. Don't have a service manual yet So can anyone tell me what fluid and amount needed.
Thanks[/QUOTE

Just did my 08, this info is from my factory service CD..... Transmission takes 8.24 pints ('Mobil 1 syn ATF', or Mopar ATF+4)
Axle, 45oz. total (Mopar SYN gear lub 75w-140, 4oz additive)

 

[bluesrt]

sawdust works well too

 

[Quickkitty]

I will be changing the rear diff fluid, adding the friction lock fluid this weekend. So, there is no drain plug.........great. What is involved in pumping the gear fluid out? I am guessing I will have to remove the bottom (skid) plate, okay no problem there, is the drain/fill plug in the front or rear of the diff? Just a quick look from the rear and I do not see any plug.

 

[bluesrt]

yes you have a drain plug....

 

[wikkid]

I will be changing the rear diff fluid, adding the friction lock fluid this weekend. So, there is no drain plug.........great. What is involved in pumping the gear fluid out? I am guessing I will have to remove the bottom (skid) plate, okay no problem there, is the drain/fill plug in the front or rear of the diff? Just a quick look from the rear and I do not see any plug.

There's a drain plug for both the tranny, and diff. And the fill holes are up high, you will see them.

 

[Hirkophoto]

I hope it's just your fluid that needs changing. If that does not cure it you better have the diff checked out. Here is the thread I started about my differential in my 2006.
http://socalviper.com/forum/index.php?topic=1522.0
Lots of good information here on the subject. Good luck.

 

[SYNFULL]

There's a drain plug for both the tranny, and diff. And the fill holes are up high, you will see them.

That is good news. I thought that I read that you had to pump the fluid out of the fill plug. I guess I misunderstood and the pump is for pumping the new fluid in to the fill plug?

I finally broke down and ordered the service cd as it seems there is no printed manual available.

Thanks everyone!

 

[Westxsrt10]

I will be changing the rear diff fluid, adding the friction lock fluid this weekend. So, there is no drain plug.........great. What is involved in pumping the gear fluid out? I am guessing I will have to remove the bottom (skid) plate, okay no problem there, is the drain/fill plug in the front or rear of the diff? Just a quick look from the rear and I do not see any plug.

2 drain plugs for the diff, the upper one only holds about an ounce of dirty oil.

 

[Quickkitty]

I just did mine, super easy.
Had to drop the skid plate (belly pan). The drain bolt came right out.
By removing the passanger rear tire, you have access to the fill plug. I just ran some 3/8 tube from the gear oil bottle to the fill hole, (no pump needed) squeezed the bottle and filled it up. I put in the diff lock fluid and all rear end noise is gone!!!
I did buy the Harbor Freight pump, was $7 on sale and even though it was not needed, for $7 it is well worth having for other projects.

 

[steve911]

I just did mine, super easy.
Had to drop the skid plate (belly pan). The drain bolt came right out.
By removing the passanger rear tire, you have access to the fill plug. I just ran some 3/8 tube from the gear oil bottle to the fill hole, (no pump needed) squeezed the bottle and filled it up. I put in the diff lock fluid and all rear end noise is gone!!!
I did buy the Harbor Freight pump, was $7 on sale and even though it was not needed, for $7 it is well worth having for other projects.

Got a pic of the pump?

 

[SYNFULL]

I guess I should also change the transmission fluid while I am at it. Don't have a service manual yet So can anyone tell me what fluid and amount needed.
Thanks[/QUOTE

Just did my 08, this info is from my factory service CD..... Transmission takes 8.24 pints ('Mobil 1 syn ATF', or Mopar ATF+4)
Axle, 45oz. total (Mopar SYN gear lub 75w-140, 4oz additive)

So I need 5 quarts for the transmission?
Thanks

 

[Steve M]

So I need 5 quarts for the transmission?
Thanks

Based on this thread:

http://forums.viperclub.org/threads/647863-Hint-at-2013-Transmission?highlight=transmission

I'm not even sure the TR6060 even needs a full 4 quarts. Hopefully someone smarter than me will chime in to verify the "fill to 3/8" below the fill hole" instructions that were shipped with Nine Ball's prototype tranny. I'm not sure if that was just for the prototypes, or if that applies to all 6060s.

 

[SYNFULL]

Based on this thread:

http://forums.viperclub.org/threads/647863-Hint-at-2013-Transmission?highlight=transmission

I'm not even sure the TR6060 even needs a full 4 quarts. Hopefully someone smarter than me will chime in to verify the "fill to 3/8" below the fill hole" instructions that were shipped with Nine Ball's prototype tranny. I'm not sure if that was just for the prototypes, or if that applies to all 6060s.

Thanks for the info I appreciate it!

 

[Steve M]

I posed the question to Grailkeeper, and he's gonna ask one of the SRT drivetrain guys to see what's up. My thread's up in the grail trail section.

My previous experience with T-56s taught me that an overfill was not recommended at all...a lot of people would fill them through where the shifter mounted since it was pretty easy to get to, and since they weren't using the fill hole, they'd often have too much in there when they were done. The usual issue was the reduced shift quality, and sometimes puking oil out of the vent. Sounds like it might be the case with the 6060 as well, except the only good way to fill these is through the fill hole, so if it's in the wrong spot, that just *****.