Oil change intervals

dave6666

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Check at Walmart for the filter too! Our local walmart has the mobil 1 filter for 9.88 and the stock mopar filter for 4.97 (same as jeep 5.7L). Unless you just feel like making two stops :D

Well, here in Texas they make us go to both joints. No Mobil 1 filters at Wally Mart. :mad: But yeah, shop where you get the best deal, and your ride can be left alone for a few minutes.
 

Tom F&L GoR

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Yes, the root of the "recommended" drain interval is to cover the worst case scenario.

Diesel oil meets all the API service requirements for gasoline engines (API SH, SJ, SL...) and your owner's manual would recommend the same 3000 or 5000 mile drain as a gasoline engine oil. Hmmm....

Yet in a diesel engine, because the fleets do monitored oil condition, they have learned, and now routinely travel 80,000 to 120,000 miles on this same oil.

3000 miles in a Hyundai but 120,000 miles in a smoky, smelly, dirty over-the-road tractor trailer? Apologies to fleet owners, but it's to make the point that to an ex-formulator it's just hilarious that the US car companies have not addressed proper, much less extended, oil drain lengths.
 

dans69ss

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As a newbie here myself, I try to do a search in the forums before I post a question that may have been previously asked :)
 

Kevin ACR

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Regarding removing the wheels to hit all the zerks, I bought a hose assembly for the grease gun with a right angle end so I can hit all the points without having to pull the wheels. I really should pull the wheels and clean them, just not something I enjoy very much.

I use M1 filter same as others, and Mobil One oil...although I came real close to switching to diesel oil after listening to Tom. I just never pulled the trigger and changed to diesel oil, although I trust Tom, as I have his big bore rear calipers on the rear of my car:) which has helped stopping distance and brake performance dramatically!
 

Freddog11

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While you're on here Tom, here's a question I've been wanting to ask our resident expert. My Hummer is equipped with the oil life calculator/computer/indicator, whatever you want to call it. Each month I get a report from Onstar telling me the oil life remaining, or I can just check the dash indicator. Anyway, I've heard these calculations are based on engine temperature, RPM, and some other factors. I rarely drive the thing, it's almost 2 years old and less than 10k miles. I had the oil changed at 1 year and about 5,000 miles and it said I still had 60% oil life left. My question is...how accurate are these things, should I trust it or should I just change the oil every 3,4,or 5k miles to be safe? The only other factor I can add is I'm in Arizona so add into the equation hot summer temps, 115 can be common, low humidity, and relatively dusty air.
 

dave6666

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While you're on here Tom, here's a question I've been wanting to ask our resident expert. My Hummer is equipped with the oil life calculator/computer/indicator, whatever you want to call it. Each month I get a report from Onstar telling me the oil life remaining, or I can just check the dash indicator. Anyway, I've heard these calculations are based on engine temperature, RPM, and some other factors. I rarely drive the thing, it's almost 2 years old and less than 10k miles. I had the oil changed at 1 year and about 5,000 miles and it said I still had 60% oil life left. My question is...how accurate are these things, should I trust it or should I just change the oil every 3,4,or 5k miles to be safe? The only other factor I can add is I'm in Arizona so add into the equation hot summer temps, 115 can be common, low humidity, and relatively dusty air.

If it's easy to see on the dip stick one could say it is dirty oil. Back on the farm method. No satellite signal needed. Me? Oil is cheap insurance, and the waste is recyclable.
 

JUCD VPR

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Hey JUCD VPR,

How'd that oil change and greasing go this weekend?

Regards,
Aaron
Haha I'm still In Kazakhstan right now. I fly back to Virginia in two days to check out and take my seperations classes, get my medical, and dental check ups done, and thats when they deprogram me as my family would say lol

I'm sedning my GF to Wally world to pick up the stuff for me though so i don;t even have to worry about it lol
 

ACRSNK

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I changed it just last week, and I use a Fram PH16 or the DG16 that I bought at Wal-Mart. I bought Castrol 10W-40 fully synthetic motor oil and I swear it took nearly 9 quarts to fill it to within a 1/16th of an inch of full on the dipstick.

I also used fully synthetic grease at all 12 grease fittings to complete the job.

Oh yeah, I change my oil once at the beginning of the spring, drive about 3500-4000 miles, then change it again to sit through the winter with weekly startups and drives on those nice winter days....I haven't bought a battery tender yet.

Regards,
Aaron

AFL,

I know this doesn't really belong in this thread, but if you ever consider selling your ACR, PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE let me know. Been looking for one and don't know where to find one :dunno: So if you ever want to sell, please remember to contact me or at least put me on the list.
Thanks,
CHRIS
 

-FROG-

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WAIT WAIT WAIT......... Are you guys overdoing this "3 months or 3,000 miles" Scenario?

Thats typically what is recomended for EVERY car out on the streets, but most Vipers are NOT daily drivers. Think about it... most people drive to work 5 days a week and sit in traffic QUITE OFTEN, so many statistics/tests would be conducted under this type situations.

So, if you only drive 5 miles to work each day, but you sit in HOT traffic each day for about 25 minutes, to and from work, then your engine is working hard, right? The deal is, you will not accumulate very many miles on your "odometer" but your engine doesn't care... it has busted it's ass in traffic (breaking down oil molecules).

Result, you should change your oil in 3 months, because your engine has worked hard in those last 3 months, but you probably will not see 3,000 mile intervals very often in that car because you only drive a few miles a day.

For my viper that sits in the garage and only has seen about 1,000 miles on the odometer since the begining of this year, why on earth would I be changing my oil? Pouring oil in my car and letting it sit in the garage for 3 months.... would not mean "oops, 3 months is over, better change the oil", although my car never moved out of the garage. The oil is still fine in there. Maybe not as fresh as the day I opened it, but it's not like it has broken itself down and is no longer any good.

I think the whole 3,000 mile thing applies to EVERYBODY, but the 3 month time line applies more to those who sit in traffic, because your engine is running and working hard. Thats what requires new, fresh oil, engine work, not car miles.

To simplify this even more.....
3,000 miles OR 3 months on your ENGINE, not so much on your odometer.

How about this... Lets compare 2 coworkers.

Employee "A" leaves at 5:00pm each day from work and sits in "bumber to bumber traffic", A/C cranking and inches his way home, taking an hour to go 5 miles each day.

Employee "B" leaves work at 7:00pm when there is no traffic on the road whatsoever and he goes the same distance in only 5 minutes.

Both cars traveled the same distance, but who do you think should change his oil in more frequient intervals (this would be every 3 months)? That would be employee "A" since he had much more wear and tear on his engine, breaking down the oil's viscosity more.

does this make sense?
 

Tom F&L GoR

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If it's easy to see on the dip stick one could say it is dirty oil. Back on the farm method. No satellite signal needed. Me? Oil is cheap insurance, and the waste is recyclable.

Dave, this is wrong. "Good" oils today have lots of dispersants that quickly pick up and hold dirt in suspension. A better oil will therefore look dirty faster than a poor oil.

Freddog11, the systems today are still based on trial and error. The engineers create an oil use map based on things they've tried; heat, RPM, age, etc. But the systems still do not actually measure the oil quality in the engine oil pan. Even having said that, I am technically happy that it after your use it indicated 60% oil life remaining - that sounds reasonable.

On the other hand, Mercedes Benz, who use Mobil 1, have been too aggressive. Those cars end up with 16,000 mile drains. I believe there have been many, many silent engine replacements... like the early Viper. You know, it's a special engine, we don't rebuild them here, we send them back to the factory. However, vee vill give you a new one!

So, I would keep a log book of how long the oil was in the Hummer and what the gauge says. I would extend the drain 500-1000 miles for each subsequent drain. Soon you'll get a feel for what the maximum might be. Then to be safe, stay under that.
 

Tom F&L GoR

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Employee "A" leaves at 5:00pm each day from work and sits in "bumber to bumber traffic", A/C cranking and inches his way home, taking an hour to go 5 miles each day.

Employee "B" leaves work at 7:00pm when there is no traffic on the road whatsoever and he goes the same distance in only 5 minutes.
quote]

FROG, you have the correct concept but the example may be confusing.

Employee B simulates the Sequence V test, which is cold start, short drive, engine off. Moisture from combustion accumulates in the oil, making it frothy white because it never gets hot enough. Fuel may also accumulate in the oil, since the enrichment for cold start would be active. These components form acids in the oil and lead to rust and corrosion.

In service, oil performance is depleted. You just never know which bad actor causes the most problems, so changing it fixes everything. But not too early. ;)
 

AFL in NJ

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Chris,

I have great news, my "Elvira"'s twin sister is for sale below (she's one of the other 16):

ebay item # 180134539613

ask for:
Chris Moran
eCommerce Manager
Fox Valley Motorcars
Lamborghini Chicago

Tell him I sent you from the VCA

Regards,
Aaron
(908) 295-9193

AFL,

I know this doesn't really belong in this thread, but if you ever consider selling your ACR, PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE let me know. Been looking for one and don't know where to find one :dunno: So if you ever want to sell, please remember to contact me or at least put me on the list.
Thanks,
CHRIS
 

Freddog11

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Tom, thanks for the answer on the Hummer, it cleared things up a bit...then you lost me again with the last line of the second post, when you said "not too early". Is there a problem with changing your oil too much?

Second question, and maybe this one is for Chuck Tator or anyone with the answer. What is the advantage of the "new" filter that Mopar came out with for the Viper and what is the best filter to get? I use Mobil 1 oil, is their filter any good or better than any other?
 

ACRSNK

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Chris,

I have great news, my "Elvira"'s twin sister is for sale below (she's one of the other 16):

ebay item # 180134539613

ask for:
Chris Moran
eCommerce Manager
Fox Valley Motorcars
Lamborghini Chicago

Tell him I sent you from the VCA

Regards,
Aaron
(908) 295-9193

Thanks for the lead Aaron!!:)
 

AFL in NJ

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ACRSNK,

Not a problem, they listed that gorgeous car a few times and if I had more money I'd try to buy all the GTS ACR no stripe Coupes just to corner the market....heck it's only 16 more!!

Then again, the 2006 Copper Coupe with black stripes supposedly they made 9 of, so that would be an easier model to buy all of.

Regards,
Aaron
 

Tom F&L GoR

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Tom, thanks for the answer on the Hummer, it cleared things up a bit...then you lost me again with the last line of the second post, when you said "not too early". Is there a problem with changing your oil too much?

No, other than the opportunity for mishaps (strip bolt, cross thread filter, spill on driveway.) I was really referring to the cost and effort to change oil; drains can be longer than it seems many people schedule.
 
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