Oil changes - do it yourself

[Jake654321]

I prefer to change oil myself. I have a 2002 ACR.

Those of you do it yourselfers; do you jack the car up to change it. Are there ramps made for such low clearance, where is the filter, should the filter be purchased at the dealership only, with new filter is it 10 qts of Mobile one 10-30W?
Whew lots of questions any advise on the correct seal/washer for the drain plug bolt?

Thanks

 

[Sean 96 McViper]

I saw a set of metal ramps in sporty's catalog that will work. I personally jack the car and use stands, but it think I am going to get some ramps... There is just something unnerving about having a 3300 lb. monster 3 inches from your nose while working under it.

-Sean

 

[Ron]

<FONT face="Comic Sans MS">The Mobil 1 filter # for a Viper is M1-204.

The oil drain plug has a captured O-Ring that is reusable but not obtainable individually from Dodge. Extra drain plugs are available and are relatively cheap. Both the factory and replacement plugs are magnetized.

I'd suggest partially pre-filling the filter with oil to minimize pressurization time, then filling the engine with 1 quart less than spec, starting the car, check for leaks, then letting it set for a bit before topping off to the max fill line.

The oil cooler does not fully drain and the oil capacity spec isn't always exactly correct because of it. Easier to add a bit more then to drain an overfilled oil pan.</FONT f>

 

[Tomer]

Just to confirm, do most of you jack the car in the center, raising the entire front end of the car for placement onto the jack stands...Or, do you jack one side at a time?

I have heard both sides, and would like a little more info on this. I am close to doing my first oil change. Someone told me that jacking the center of the car can damage the frame rail edges...I do have a rubber protector for my jack saddle.

thanks
Tomer

 

[Ulysses]

tomer,

I raise from the center for the front. The service manual says that this is a lift point.

 

[Janni]

Here's our process.

Drive car onto high tech expensive 2X12 ramps. Hey - they ARE pressure treated... Height = 3.5 inches

Jack REAR of car. Saddle placed on the curvy part of frame rail close to stone shield will pick up entire back end. Place on Jack stands - about 16 - 18 inches.

Jack FRONT of car. Saddle placed at the center of the "K" formed by the cross member and the angled supports. this will lift entire front of car. Place on jack stands - same height as rear.

No damage noted on any frame rail and we've been using this approach for years...

Car is level for proper oil drainage.

 

[Jake654321]

Thank you all. I'll buy some boards and go at it.

 

[Got Venom]

Everybody gets too complicated on this issue. Here is all you have to do. Get 1-1/2" of newspaper or an old encyclopedia, etc. Put it behind the front left wheel. Drive backwards over it and then jack your car up with your trusty 10 year old Sears floorjack under the jacking point on the side sill. Once you have the car high enough to put a jackstand under the left side frame rail, go over to the right side and jack it up on the jacking point. The car is so stiff this side will not need any paper or books under the wheel. It will be ready to jack up. Then when high enough, just put the jackstand under this side on the frame. ;-) Also prefilling the oil filter is messy, and not necessary. You are supposed to change the filter when the engine is up to temp. Which means oil will be coated for plenty of time on all surfaces when you drain the oil. At Ted May's tech session he did recommend the Mobil one filter, because it has protection all around the rubber ring to prevent blowouts. The other brands like Mopar, Fram, and Wix did not have this feature.

 

[Janni]

Personally, I don't think this is complicated either, but I do think that you should have the car level - which means 4 jackstands - not just 2 in the front. The drain plug is near the center of the pan, and as long as that thing is (oilpan), only jacking up the front means you are not draining a bunch of oil.

I am not a big fan of the side sill jack points - I consider them a point of last resort.

Prefilling the oil filter is easy and not messy and I prefer to do it.

Mobil 1 oil filters are supposed to be good. However, I have heard of a couple failing at the gasket, and have been on the receiving end of a gasket failure of a Mobil 1 filter. Response from Champion Labs was not comforting. Changing filter brands...

 

[jcaspar1]

I don't even bother to jack the car up. Just drive up onto ramps made from two 2x12's. If you have a low pan and long arms you can do the rest by just reaching under the car. Saves a little time and less risky than doing it with jack stands...

 

[Steve Miehe]

I sprung for a pair of the steel ramps from Sporty's - they work great. Allow you to roll around under the car with confidence. Always fill the filter with fresh oil to prevent a dry start.

SM

 

[Motor City Mad Man]

When I first got my Viper I was going to change the oil myself but could not find ramps I could drive up on being that the car sits so low. Took it to the dealer who charged me around $95 for the oil and filter change and never did that again. I found some Rhino ramps that are pretty low but still have to use some 2 X 12's to drive up on first or else the front fascia hits the ramp. I have changed the oil myself ever since.

 

[Scott J]

Get the ramps from Sporty's, as they are designed for low-clearance cars such as the Viper. They're much safer than negotiating underneath a car supported only by stands.

Also, remember to leave the transmission in Neutral; Parking Brake applied and Chalks behind the rear wheels for safety. Do not leave the car in gear! Although rare, it is possibe that a metal object striking the Starter Solenoid may cause the car to start and subsequently lunge if left in gear.

Sorry to sound like Mr. Rogers, but working in a shop back in my high school years left me mindful of these things.

 

[SNAKOIL VA]

OOH- OOH!

Here's another way. Park the car sloping down hill. Drive onto the hi-tech 2x12's. Then it's still level!

I've been changing my own oil for 25 years. I have never put oil in a filter to "pre-charge it". Engine failures in 25 years: Zero, Nada, Zilch.

How much oil could you possibly get in a filter that mounts horizontally anyway? Warm the engine up-drain it....it's pretty simple.

 

[Ron]

<FONT face="Comic Sans MS">Never realized that changing oil could be such a controversial subject.

Personally, I don't see the downside with partially prefilling the filter. It certainly doesn't mount horizontal on my V10.

Downside? Zero, unless of course you completely fill it then turn it then upside down to write the mileage on the bottom.

Upside? Maybe nothing, maybe an extra 10K miles on the bearings. Why not?

As far as jacking the car, everyone had good ideas and I agree with draining it while level, but don't see the need to completely jack up the car for such an easy task.

I do the board drive up thing with the front tires, jack (padded) the passenger side via the side sill jack point (what they're designed for) get the car high enough to place a padded jack stand under the frame. Remove the drain plug, the jack stand and lower the car. Come back a bit later and repeat.

Minus the drain time, it's a 10 minute job and not rocket science.....</FONT f>

 

[BigsViper]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Scott J:
Also, remember to leave the transmission in Neutral; Parking Brake applied and Chalks behind the rear wheels for safety.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>originally posted by Janni:
Personally, I don't think this is complicated either, but I do think that you should have the car level - which means 4 jackstands - not just 2 in the front. The drain plug is near the center of the pan, and as long as that thing is (oilpan), only jacking up the front means you are not draining a bunch of oil.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I agree wholeheartedly with Janni, car must be level to drain properly!!

 

[Steve 00RT/10]

I've got a 25 yr. K-Mart jack that slides under the side sill jack point without having to use boards. I think it was $20 back then. But.....for oil changes, I take it to the quick lube. They charge me $12 and let me go in the pit with them. I bring my own oil and filter(neither is Mobil 1). I change the filter and get a good look underneath--standing up. Much simpler.

Steve

 

[Jack B]

1. I have Sporty's ramps. They are Ok for a serious job, however, it is a two man operation. There is not a lot of room for error when mounting the ramps. It is quicker to jack up the car. They do not lift the car enough to use a creeper.

2. Northern Tool has a low clearance jack that is affordable and effective for many chores. It is one of those items that you wonder why you did not buy earlier.

3. I just jack up the drivers rear. The whole drivers side rises. When I get about 8-10 inches of lift I place a jack stand under the front lift point. You are now home free.

I have to agree with the post on the filling of the new filter, why. Those few ounces don't buy anything. If you are worried about dry starts, merely crank the car till it starts and shut it off. Do that several times till you have pressure and you have accomplished the same thing.

Do yourself a favor buy the Northern Tool jack. A year ago it was approx $125.

 

[Ron]

<FONT face="Comic Sans MS">Jack B;

Not to be a wise guy, but why is cranking your engine to develop oil pressure any easier on it than just starting it?

If it's going to take 50 oil pump revolutions, just to use a number, to get 20 psi to the bearings, should it matter if it takes 20 seconds of cranking slowly or 3 seconds at idle rpm?

Many have asked how to crank a Viper engine without starting it for the reason you mention and I just don't get it.</FONT f>

 

[genXgts]

or do the cheapo fillipo Canadian version:

drive the car up on three foot sections of 2X12, popping the car up the 1.50 inches can get most standard jacks under the car, and then proceed from there.......

hey when your buck is .62 US a man has to eat....

 

[Ulysses]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Those of you do it yourselfers; do you jack the car up to change it. Are there ramps made for such low clearance, <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Most of us drive it up on ramps and then use a standard jack to jack her up. I made my own ramps out of 1x12's. For me this is getting tiresome and I am looking at getting a low pro jack. There are ramps you can get as mentioned above from the Sporty's Preferred Living Catalog. I have a price of 189.00 for the pair in the catalog I currently have.

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>where is the filter, should the filter be purchased at the dealership only, with new filter is it 10 qts of Mobile one 10-30W?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

The filter is on the passenger side above where the front cross member attaches to the side rail. Access from the bottom. Mobil One makes a good filter for the Viper (M-104?). 10 quarts is the specified capacity with new filter. 10-W30 is what it comes with from the factory.

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Whew lots of questions any advise on the correct seal/washer for the drain plug bolt?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Didn't know one was needed.

 

[jim93rt]

Personally I don't see what all the fuss is about. Here on Long Island all we do is drive to Laura's house and use her lift. She can even lend you a U.P.S. guy to carry the oil. Just kidding of course.

 

[Joseph Dell]

I must be doing something wrong... I jack up the car on the front driver's side jack point, put a jackstand under a fram rail, drain the oil, lover the car [to finish draining the oil], then jack it up (did I mention this is all w/ the factory jack?) and then put the bolt back in, change filter, add oil, go race.

Takes me about 10-15 minutes.

JD

 

[Warren 00 GTS]

The correct seal/washer for the drain plug bolt is Dodge part number 4763738, and is available individually.

 

[Ron]

<FONT face="Comic Sans MS">My apologies, Warren is correct, the gasket is available seperately.

Years ago I tried to buy the gaskets individually and was told by my local dealer that I had to buy the plug / gasket assembly.

Checking the parts book confirmed Warren's part number. Another reason to call Jon B or Chuck Tator.</FONT f>

 

[Mike L]

Joseph,
I agree, I don't know what all of the fuss is about. I changed the oil today and used the factory jack positioned in the center of the front frame at the K. Didn't really have to go very high then lowered the car back to level to get the full drain. I always pre-fill the oil filter (over 1/2 quart fits fine) and finished the job. I have a oil drain pan that was purchased for draining the oil on my old 911. I believe it is made by Wedco and it is only about 5" high but holds all of the oil fine.
Mike

 

[FrankBarba]

changing oil is very easy. i use no ramps, no peices of wood, no phone books, and no ramps. all you have to do is cut a pit in your garage. oil changes are very easy. i can even stand up when doing an oil change.

 

[MichaelP]

Problem is I dig more than 2 feet and I hit salt water