Oil Cooler Lines

[drecon]

Hey everyone, I have a 2000 GTS and need to replace the oil cooler lines. The lines rubbed a hole through each other. I have a few questions(below) and also thought it would be a good reminder for everyone to check theirs.

First, here are some helpful posts on removing the front fascia, parts, and re-installing the lines:
http://forums.viperclub.org/rt-10-gts-discussions/555322-oil-cooler-line-replacement.html
http://forums.viperclub.org/rt-10-gts-discussions/558404-got-leak-oil-cooler.html
http://forums.viperclub.org/rt-10-gts-discussions/637059-how-remove-front-fascia.html

Here is a picture of the problem. Check your lines if you haven't aleady. Location of lines:

You must be registered for see images attach

Zoomed in view of where mine were rubbing:

You must be registered for see images attach

I was able to get the fascia off with help from the posts above. Using these tools helped a lot for removing the christmas tree fasteners. I used the smaller one to start the ones under the headlights:

You must be registered for see images attach

My questions:
1) What size and type are the fittings on each end of the oil cooler lines? I have an autox friend that can build them up for me.

2) How do I remove the oil lines once unbolted? There doesn't appear to be enough clearance to pull them through the frame rail and radiator support. The other posts didn't mention any trouble with this, so hopefully it's something simple.

This pic is looking at the front of the oil cooler and shows the clearance issue:

You must be registered for see images attach

Thanks for the help!

 

[dave6666]

Dan at Viper Specialty has an OEM set of lines right now I think. They are otherwise AN fittings. You may need an angle head pump wrench to get at the connections on the engine end. I know they were tricky to get at on my car.

 

[drecon]

Thanks Dave. I'll check with Dan.

I was able to remove the connections on the engine end, using a standard 1" open wrench.

The problem I'm having is pulling the lines out from the car. There isn't enough space between the frame rail and the plastic radiator support for the fitting ends to come through. This plastic support fits across the entire front and looks really difficult to remove/loosen.

Did anyone else have trouble with this last step?

 

[ViperTony]

Baz posted a tip a while back which may be helpful. He used a piece of rubber hose around the oil lines to prevent them from rubbing against each other. I did the same when I was working on my engine a while back. Fairly easy and cheap mod to implement. Hope this helps.

 

[drecon]

ViperTony-

Thanks for the tip. I'll definitely add rubber hose for protection, once i get the new lines installed. Too bad I didn't catch it earlier...

Another tip I heard was using a zip tie at the point of contact, because it's the relative motion that causes them to rub. I'll probably do both.

 

[Dan Cragin]

Many times the lines appear to have rubbed through but they actually have "grounded" agaianst each other. A bad ground is the cause, seen it happen numerous times.

 

[Nadine UK GTS]

Yes, I've seen many do it, a piece of braid will chaf and fray and puncture the other line. Rubber hose cut length ways and slipped on, or some zip ties will solve the problem, the later Gens actually have line holder-spacer-guides, so you could always obtain these to fit as another option!

 

[drecon]

Dan, thanks for the reminder. I remember reading about that in one of the links above but forgot to check it.

I called Valaya Racing in San Jose, CA and they were nice enough to talk with me a bit about the problem. The guy I talked to knew exactly the problem I was dealing with, and had actually just pulled out the same lines. He said you just have to force them out, helps to have 2 people, and possibly pry back the plastic radiator support for a little more clearance. Remove the upper oil cooler line first. Install in reverse.

I'll let everyone know how it goes this weekend. I know a handful of people have removed them on the forums, so any tips are much appreciated. Thanks for the comments everyone.

 

[drecon]

All, it's been several months. I got a little side tracked preparing for a 24 Hour of Lemons race in December, which was super fun by the way. I got the Viper fixed and wanted to share my results.

The guy at Valaya Racing was right on for removal of the lines. Have a helper pull from the front while you use a big screw driver to pry the plastic back from inside the engine bay while also pushing the lines. They came right out.

I decided to make my own lines after looking at the stock ones, the walls are pretty thin. The part numbers I used from Summit Racing:
EAR-406010ERL 6 FT. -10 PERFORM-O-FLEX
EAR-800110ERL -10 ST. SWIVEL-SEAL
EAR-809110ERL -10 90 DEGREE TUBE SWIVEL-SEAL

I wasn't able to find an after market fitting with an extension, to match the stock one, making it difficult to connect them to the oil cooler. I barely got them on and when I did, they weren't seated right and leaked.

I tried a couple different combinations of angled fittings and couplers but nothing worked, the fittings were too stressed forcing them to connect to the oil cooler. I ended up drilling a 1.25" hole through the plastic support for the lower line. They fit nicely with no stress on the fittings now, and no leaks.

Finally, I used heater hose and zip ties to protect parts of the lines that were making contact with each other or any sharp edges.

I have a bunch of pics I wanted to post but used all of my 256KB attachment quota for just the pics above. Do I have any other options?

 

[moparracing]

I have a bunch of pics I wanted to post but used all of my 256KB attachment quota for just the pics above. Do I have any other options?

create a free account on photobucket.com to upload your photos, then link them in your post here.

 

[drecon]

I took moparracing's advice and use my picasa account. There are 54 photos, some with captions:

https://picasaweb.google.com/andremarconett/ViperOilCoolerLines#

 

[Kevan]

Andre- the lines look great!

If I may, a couple of suggestions regarding tools for building/installing hoses with AN fittings.....

Vise Jaw Protector:
JEGS Performance Products 80548 JEGS AN Fitting Vise Jaw Protector
AN Fitting Holding Fixture
This REALLY helps when building lines.

AN Wrenches:
JEGS Performance Products 80559 JEGS AN Fitting Wrenches
This set is the most wrenches for the lowest price (vs. Summit, Speedway)

Here's another good set:
Speedway AN Wrench Set
Fewer wrenches and offered with angled heads.

Another good value:
Aerospace Components AF-WRST Aerospace Components AN Wrenches

While it may work, standard wrenches and a regular vise aren't the way to do AN fittings. The steel not only scratches the nice aluminum finish, but they can damage the fitting as well.
It's best to use aluminum on aluminum.

 

[drecon]

Thanks Kevan, that's good advice.

I also forget to mention to not over tighten the aluminum fittings. With the standard open wrench I was using it's easy to over tighten. The wrenches Kevan mentioned are shorter and thus less torque can be applied, another reason to use the fitting wrenches.

 

[Kevan]

I also forget to mention to not over tighten the aluminum fittings. With the standard open wrench I was using it's easy to over tighten. The wrenches Kevan mentioned are shorter and thus less torque can be applied, another reason to use the fitting wrenches.

Good call!

I have my own torque setting for AN fittings:
Finger-tight, then 1/2 a turn with the wrench.

That's all that's really needed.