Overheating 2000 GTS

[KevinATX]

I know there are a lot of these post (ive read many of them) but each issue is a bit different. Here is my issue I hope someone can help me out with:

I noticed that my car was running mostly on the mark between 190 and 250 and would get closer to the red when idling with air conditioner on (never actually got to the red but I was careful to ensure I kept RPM down). Not real sure of the exact temp that this mark indicates.

I decided to flush all the coolant, refill and burp. I drained the radiator and coolant drain plugs. Drained all the fluid, sealed it back up, and actually flushed it twice with distilled water before filling it with 50/50 mix.

Burped the system first with front end elevated, heater on. Drove burped, added coolant, drove, burped, added coolant. I was using a bleeder valve in upper radiator hose and continued to do this until radiator fluid came out when opening valve.

Im pretty certain I got all the air out. I drove the car and the temp looked like it was holding right at the 190 mark for several miles, so went home and parked. Next time I drive it starts acting like it did before. It does fine at highway speed, but slow traffic and stop lights especially now that it is getting hot here in texas causes the temp to climb. Last time i took the car out it was getting closer to the red mark as I was backing it into the garage after driving.

Possible Issues:

The car has a very small leak in the radiator (leaves a puddle about 2-3" in diameter after sitting a couple weeks). I doubt this leak is enough to cause decrease in fluid levels. Overflow tank is still full, but it is very hard to see the level of the fluid in the fascia botle (old plastic makes it hard to see)

I dont know where to start. I was thinking of replacing the radiator, but I dont really think that is causing the overheating. I believe that the thermostat is working because the heater functions properly (circulating coolant) and there is pressure through the hoses indicating that its opening.

Ive read that the water pump may be going out, but not sure on this one either. Just need some advice on further diagnostics.

Something I am considering is adding coolant to the fascia bottle via the hose to the pressure tank, but without being able to see the level I am not sure if it needs it or if I would overfill it. I know i can take the front fascia off, but would love to avoid doing that.

Any ideas on what to try first? If further or more detailed info is needed let me know.

Thanks in advance.

 

[99 R/T 10]

Go with replacing the water pump first. at the same time, have the radiator pulled and fixed. My money is on your pump.

 

[KevinATX]

That's what I was thinking. I know the radiator needs to be repaired but doubt this is causing the issue. Wanted some confirmation and opinions on the water pump theory.

 

[speedracervr4]

I would replace the radiator first since you know it has issues, then fill it with only distilled water so if it doesn't fix it you didn't waste money on coolant. You mentioned you have heat so it appears the water pump is working (somewhat).

Are the fans coming on? Did you check the relays?

How old is the radiator cap?

 

[KevinATX]

Fans come on so didn't check relays. No clue on age of radiator cap.

 

[viper k]

turn yours wheels take out the rubber plug put a light in and check your coolant level!!!!!

 

[WDW MKR]

I'd fix the radiator and pressure test the cap before moving on to the pump. Not saying the pump isn't a contributor, but you know the radiator has issue and certain types of leaks can draw air in as the system cools down, creating and endless cycle of burping.

 

[KevinATX]

I'd fix the radiator and pressure test the cap before moving on to the pump. Not saying the pump isn't a contributor, but you know the radiator has issue and certain types of leaks can draw air in as the system cools down, creating and endless cycle of burping.

I was thinking the small leak could be sucking air but thought it was probably too small. It is a possibility though. I'm probably just going to do both at once. I was hoping to not have to spend the time and money on water pump but would hate to pull the radiator out to try that only just to have to take stuff back apart to get to pump..

 

[B SNAKE 1]

check the temp sending unit, fuses & relays first! & did you check the overflow bottle inside the fender wall? had the same problem last summer after i put sct tune in ending up with a problem with the tune & sending unit. took a lot of time to figure out start with the little stuff then move on

 

[MikeG]

Kevin,

If after you check the water pump, radiator and radiator cap, and/or you replace or fix, and the heating issue is still present; you might consider the following:

Change out the thermostat to a 170 degree one.
Have the fan re-calibrated to enable cooling sooner.
Add Red Line Water Wetter to the coolant.

My car when I acquired it, behaved as your car is doing (San Antonio) and I simply could not drive it at low speed or let it idle for long. Running the AC only exacerbated the problem.

I took the car to ART in Buda (when they were still there), and the service I referenced above was accomplished, after which, I have never had heating issues again with this car; except for when a 12 pack cardboard beer carton got wedged up under my front end.

 

[DrumrBoy]

I'd fix the radiator and pressure test the cap before moving on to the pump. Not saying the pump isn't a contributor, but you know the radiator has issue and certain types of leaks can draw air in as the system cools down, creating and endless cycle of burping.

This is important. If the radiator is leaking fluid, it's certainly capable of taking air in. I would agree with those who say "take care of the known issue first" and then start eliminating other possibilities. Messing with other stuff when either the radiator or some hose is leaking may give you false negatives.....

 

[DrumrBoy]

For those who haven't run into this yet, Water Wetter is a great product but it eats aluminum. Not a problem for stock heads (there's plenty of meat on 'em) but if you've done any porting, use the purple stuff instead....eats aluminum at a MUCH slower rate. This isn't just internet lore, I wore a small hole through a ported GTS-R head last year and some of the best Viper engine builders do recommend avoiding WW for ported heads.

Kevin,

If after you check the water pump, radiator and radiator cap, and/or you replace or fix, and the heating issue is still present; you might consider the following:

Change out the thermostat to a 170 degree one.
Have the fan re-calibrated to enable cooling sooner.
Add Red Line Water Wetter to the coolant.

My car when I acquired it, behaved as your car is doing (San Antonio) and I simply could not drive it at low speed or let it idle for long. Running the AC only exacerbated the problem.

I took the car to ART in Buda (when they were still there), and the service I referenced above was accomplished, after which, I have never had heating issues again with this car; except for when a 12 pack cardboard beer carton got wedged up under my front end.

 

[datruodb]

Have you taken the thermostat out to see if it's opening at temp? Just put it in a *** of water on the stove and see if it opens.

 

[KevinATX]

Have you taken the thermostat out to see if it's opening at temp? Just put it in a *** of water on the stove and see if it opens.

I have not yet done this as I thought it was operating as designed since the car operated fine at low RPM's and highway speeds. Also the heater seemed to proved a continuous supply of heat. This may not prove 100% the thermostat is working and since this is a relatively easy thing to check i will do that.

From the opinions listed here, my next actions will be the following:

1) Replace radiator cap
2) Test thermostat (consider replacing with 170 degree and having fans come on earlier. Can someone explain how this might help? I know the fans are on and believe the thermostat is open when its at operating temperature, so not how this helps, but seemed to help out MikeG and I cant argue with results.)
3) Iffy on the water wetter at this point due to conflict between MikeG and DrumrBoy posts
4) Get the small leak in radiator fixed

If that doesnt fix it, replace water pump.

Thanks to all for the recommendations guys. Let me know if I may be missing something additional.

 

[blackandblue01]

Another option (after you remedy some existing issues) would be installing a roe fan kit. It really helped mine with temperature rise in stalled traffic with the A/C on and hotter weather.

 

[Luisv]

Another option (after you remedy some existing issues) would be installing a roe fan kit. It really helped mine with temperature rise in stalled traffic with the A/C on and hotter weather.

+1

My fan failed last week. When I changed it, I added the Roe kit. It works well. Take the time to adjust the temp probe setting and it will run for a few minutes after the car shuts off to combat heat soak. Works like a charm!

 

[Jeffsss]

Another option (after you remedy some existing issues) would be installing a roe fan kit. It really helped mine with temperature rise in stalled traffic with the A/C on and hotter weather.

hmmm... link to said kit?

 

[GTSlookin]

My 2002 GTS gave several of same symptoms except for leak. Turned out to be bad water pump. Sometimes it ran cool, sometimes it overheated at idle. Easy to see why it fails when removed. Plastic impeller spins on the shaft SOMETIMES!

 

[Grisoman]

hmmm... link to said kit?

http://www.roeracing.com/productcart/pc/Dodge-Viper-Fan-Control-Kit-1996-2002-Dodge-Viper-GTS-and-1997-2002-RT-10-157p4.htm

I'm happy with my fan kit; just get the *** adjusted to your liking.

 

[SquadXX]

Concur. Same thing happen to my ported heads

 

[SquadXX]

....slow hole in them

 

[SquadXX]

http://www.roeracing.com/productcart/pc/Dodge-Viper-Fan-Control-Kit-1996-2002-Dodge-Viper-GTS-and-1997-2002-RT-10-157p4.htm

I'm happy with my fan kit; just get the *** adjusted to your liking.

Was this kit as easy to install as advertised on seans website?

 

[Jeffsss]

I'd like to know as well.

I'm "kinda" handy.

 

[Catwood]

check the radiator for crap in the vanes from the front.

 

[plumcrazy]

http://www.roeracing.com/productcart/pc/Dodge-Viper-Fan-Control-Kit-1996-2002-Dodge-Viper-GTS-and-1997-2002-RT-10-157p4.htm

I'm happy with my fan kit; just get the *** adjusted to your liking.

nice to see the roe battery drain kit is still around...

 

[Dan Cragin]

There are several issues that can lead to the condition you describe. First make sure that the low speed and high speed fans are working. Also, inspect the fan relays housed in the small fuse box to the front of the big fuse box (PDC) under the hood on the drivers side. Pull both relays out and see if there are any burn marks where the relays plug in. High resistance in these areas can cause the fan to turn off. Also check the connection where the fan plugs into the wiring harness, this can burn up as well and cause the fan to turn off at times.

Water pumps on the 2000-02 Models are suspect. The plastic impeller on the pumps gets loose and this reduces coolant flow. If all else checks out, start by inspecting the pump, you will need to remove it to inspect the impeller. If it is good, move on to the thermostat. Many times the thermostat can stick and only open up part way. Replace the thermostat even if it looks good. Also, whenever I change the water pump I change the thermostat as well. It requires that you remove the intake manifold so you will need two intake gaskets and a thermostat gasket. I like to use a lower opening rate thermostat, like a 170 or 180 degree.

Inspect the radiator for leaks, they often get leaks around the tanks. These can be repaired. The coolant expansion tank often becomes bulged out and discolored as well, its good to replace that and the cap on a 13 year old car. The overflow tank in the front bumper cover also tends to leak. There is a screw under the front bumper cover that often punctures the tank if you hit a parking curb or bump a driveway. This tank needs to be filled up to the coolant line for the cooling system to work properly.

Bleeding air out of the cooling system can be hard, I use a vacuum system that pulls a vacuum on the system and then pulls in the coolant. There are several types on the market. Make sure the heater is switched on when you bleed the system. Always use a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water. The cooling system will oxidize badly with pure water.

Once the cooling system is working correctly. Make sure there are no leaves, newspapers or debris in front of the radiator. The biggest issue with the factory cooling system is airflow. With little frontal area and not much venting on the hood its hard for the air to get in and out at low speeds. On supercharged cars or cars that run with the AC on in stop and go traffic or hot temps, we add two additional pusher fans in front of the radiator.

For the race cars, we do numerous other things to cool down the engine. Bigger radiators with higher pressure release caps, bottom feed ducts under the front bumper cover to improve airflow and vents in the hood to let the air out. These all help when the car is pushed on the track at speed.

Hope this helps.

 

[plumcrazy]

always listen to dan cragin

 

[LifeIsGood]

nice to see the roe battery drain kit is still around...

Stop it already!

 

[LifeIsGood]

Here's what the overflow bottle looks like in the front fascia (all cleaned up, it was green when I first saw it)...

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Here’s my old (top) and new (bottom) water pump…

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Here’s the water pump impeller issue…

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[GTSHolgi]

What about water pumps of earlier years? Are they less supspect than '00-'02 (have a '98 RT/10)?