<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>
Err, Greg, did you forget about the bottle in your trunk?! ;o)
It will be a great race if your bottle is off, otherwise no contest.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Ahhhh man, Shey old buddy old pal, Your supposed to have my back.
Actually, if MPH is close (off the bottle) as predicted by Ben, he'll still need to best a 1.39 short time, and I am guessing that's going to be pretty hard to do. (and I don't cut sleepy .55x lights)
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>
Regarding suspension, it's my understanding that you want to maximize weight transfer. That would suggest soft rear springs (lets the rear sag), setting front rebound damping to full soft (to allow the front to rise), and setting rear compression damping to full soft and rebound to full stiff (to let the rear drop and stay down). I'm not sure what to do if you've only got one combined compression/rebound adjuster for each shock; perhaps someone with more experience will chime in.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Ben, Actually you want just enough "load" transfer (the weight doesn't move around, but the loading of that weight does) to get the car to hook. Any more load transfer than is needed will waste precious time and HP moving the front end of the car upward (as in wheelstand) rather than forward towards the finish line. (Some wheelstand may be necessary to provide optimum traction depending on the suspension in use, but those bumper dragging crowd pleasing wheelstands are counter productive)
As for "letting the rear drop" I have found that using anti-squat to get body rise and subsequently separate from the suspension helps plant the rear tires on my Nova. (Getting enough anti-squat on an IRS car may difficult)
Here is a pretty simple but relevant illustration.
Stand on a bathroom scale at a half squat position. Have someone toss you a 20-pound bag of dog food (or caviar, which ever is the handiest). When you catch it, simultaneously bend your knees to soften the impact. (Just like your rear suspension would do when load transfer takes place) Read the weight of the scale while you are catching the weight. It will read lower than your static weight. Now have someone throw that same 20-pound weight to you and this time when you catch it, simultaneously straighten your knees. (To simulate anti-squat in a rear suspension) The scale will now read higher than your static weight and the 20-pound weight combined.
This is what "plants" the tire giving better traction.
Just my 2 cents and each and every car/suspension type can require a different approach to obtaining the ultimate hook.
Greg D
You must be registered for see images attach