GTS-R 001
Enthusiast
This is a big series of Questions that I will do my best to answer here.
Steve;
Very interesting kit! So I have the full Bellanger set-up on my Viper (Headers, High Flow Cats, Cat Back with no cross over). Some questions:
1. Does your TT kit just bolt right up to my Bellanger set up without any mods to the Bellanger headers or cats or cat-back. Does it just pick it up right after the mufflers and carry it from there?
The kit is being made to bolt up to either the Stock exhaust headers or any aftermarket header system, it is best to run a turbo system without cats due to extra fuel that goes with the tune for the extra air flow. It does not pick up after the mufflers there is a straight pipe that is supplied to replace the stock or after market muffler piece, a muffler or expansion chamber will cause too much of a pressure variance and will impede flow to the turbos.
2. What kind of heat is back there with those remote Turbos, etc. Is it enough to warp the factory diffuser and rear bumper assembly or cause it to warp over time? Look like a saggy diaper?
The heat is shielded and will not warp any factory pieces, if you look under your hood your stock headers are right beside factory composite pieces and we are taking everything into account with this system, these turbos are water cooled and are place pretty much exactly where the Gen 2's had their exhaust outlets. But at the end of the day, the person who puts a system on their car will have to decide what they want and how much they want to mod their cars. These remote turbos make less heat than a foot well turbo, for bot the car and the turbo components.
3. Let's assume Stage 2 kit, when you talk about upgraded fuel system, what are you really referring to? Are you changing out the in tank fuel pump? Are you adding an inline fuel pump as well? Changing out fuel lines for Aero-Quip style new fuel lines? New Injectors? What size injectors? New Fuel Rails? Does it require a new fuel pressure regulator?
We are not changing out the intank fuel system, we are replicating teh fuel system as it has been on the test car that our tune builder has been running hard for 15,000 miles at 800 RWHP, we are trying to make a budget yet proper system. If someone wants to run up the boost they will have to have a more robust fuel system and a built motor to support the power. We are supplying flow matched larger injectors (paxton doesn't) and fuel pump booster (paxton does this), no fuel pressure regulator or FPU as our tune does not rely on that type of equipment for this kit,
4. When we are talking about electronics, what are you really thinking? Is this just SCT Tunes or a more advanced piggy back computer chip that let's you change every single strapping table and configuration to really dial the car in for the set-up, location, ambient, etc. For us "Rockies" boys, we need the tuning attributes to really dial the cars in up here. My 408 Stroker S351R Saleen has a Moates chip in it and with all the fun forged stuff we did internally, as well as Snow Boost Methanol Injection, etc., etc. we just wrapped it up and Dyno tested the car two months ago (after 18 hours of dyno testing and tuning as EVERY table was changed for high altitude, sensors moved (like air intake temp from inside the fender to ported into the bottom of the intake, etc.)) anyway if is all what it should be, and at a 92 DEGF Ambient day, we ran 579 rwHP and 640 rwtorque with ZERO detonation or hesitation, etc. 18% drivetrain losses puts the crank at 685 hp and 750 torque. My point is it is all in the tuning? Can you really explain more how you are tying this tuning in and how it will meet emissions. We do not have CARB requirements in Colorado, but we do have very strict emissions. If I were to look at this set up, I don't want to have to do anything to pass emissions beyond dumping a leaner tune in and drive off to the station. It is important to me the car pass emissions on it's own without unhooking this or that. It also has to be tuned for our "no-air" state.
We are supplying an SCT tune as that is what is working on our test car. To pass emission you will be able to disconnect your in pipe and teh exhaust running to teh turbo, load your stock tune and most likely pass emmissions, at this point there is no power adder system that any supplier will claim will pass emmissions, whether it be headers and high flow or Turbo systems or a paxton. We are not supplying a Motec, AEM (which has been discontinued for Viper) or pectel. our tuner has lots of experience with these sytsems but as you know they are not going to allow you to go to the emmissions tester and have them hook up to your OBD2 port and have you pass, we are trying to keep this simple. I have had a PAxton car in the past and had a custom fuel system that had been installed by Valaya and modded by DC and I ended up stranded multiple times because of it and becuase of teh AEM i had take a crap as well. I want this system to be turn key and reliable. If someone wants more they can ask for it and get it, but our base kits are designed to be turn key and make better power than a paxton.
5. Only want to use the stock rear bumper and diffuser area so the car looks 100% stock. Are there any other issues with using the stock versus your new back end. I am sure you will put out a nice rear, but just not interested in that look?
The adjustable rear aero I am working on is not a necessary part, just an option that I decided to make, the 15 degree angle at the bottom of teh car is WRONG for a re-attachment of laminar flow, the correct angle is 7 degrees so I just took this opportunity to make a new piece and I figured that while I am at it I will make it adjustable. The piece I am making will not be distingushable by many as anything but stock but a real Viper guy will be able to see that something is different there.
6. Where does your 5-7 gallon water tank reside? Does it come with low coolant level sensors? Where does the remote water pump reside?
I am putting my water tank in the trunk area, I don't use my trunk much or anything besides a gym bag or similar, but the size we have picked still retains most of the storage size of teh trunk. We have had some people ask for a heat exchanger up front instead and that is definitely an option. The water pump is packaged right behind one of the intercoolers. We are not putting a coolant level sensor in as part of the kit, but one can be installed easily, paxton does not do this either, it is a closed system that is easy to check on as the user feels he needs to.
7. Now I am a big believer in Methanol Injection after my Saleen experience. I mean I am getting rubber in all 5 gears, which is crazy. Even though I know Turbos work off of heat, I would imagine there is a benefit to the motor internals to be cooled with Methanol which also cleans them up nice. Can a Methanol kit be added and are you considering something like this as an option? With all that pipe under the car up to the intake system, the Methanol injection can be right in the back (so the system can be very compact (with tank , pump and level sensors in the back, so those pipes are cooled with a clean dense charge up to the intakes up front? Reason I ask is I put Bellangers on to remove heat, yet this sytem adds heat to the tunnel (I would imagine) I don't want that. We want heat at the Turbos to spin them up there nice, but just aft the Turbos on those long pipes up to the intake, that can be cool and full of clean, very dense air under pressure.
A methanol kit would be a great addition, but it is not required, I have always been wary of items that require a constant check of, to insure the drive ability of your car. Yes it would be a benefit and can be added for more power, but it is not a requirement of this kit for drive ability. The cold pipes running up the center tunnel will add little to no heat as the air will be at ambient temp once it leaves the intercooler, and compared to a foot well system will add WAY less heat, and since all our cooling is in the back we are not adding more heat tax to the viper cooling system up front. when you add a heat exchanger up front you are taking the cooling capacity away from something and adding heat to the engine, you physically cannot avoid this and it is one of the compounding reasons that a paxton heat soaks so easy,
Thanks for the info! When we talked before I had no idea you were looking at a remote TT kit like this. Of course my biggest question, is what mods are required to make this kit work, what holes are drilled where? Does it require cutting anything? I don't want ANY cutting! As I am banking on the Viper being worth something again in 40 years, (I am going to enjoy it all the time up to then however) I do not want to cut anything. Small drill holes are okay but I don't want to drill a huge hole anywhere on the car. Just need to fill in the rest of the info based upon what you wrote here.
This system is very non invasive compared to many mods, we have drilled or cut nothing except for a few mount holes in the back and we are relocating the battery in the twin kit, I am putting an oddessey small race battery in place of mine. But outside of that you will have little to no cutting drilling or otherwise, but with the same grain of salt this is a modification so expect something. I always keep all my stock parts and I suggest you do the same.
I am still a screw blower guy, but this kit is intriguing. Hey, maybe you should slap a Whipple on top of this kit as well and figure out how to make that all work? (kidding as that is just a small Hot Wheels boy dream)
Rick
BTW I still have my 1969 Mach 1 of the past 25+ years. I just can not really bring myself to sell it, much to the disappointment of my wife.
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I finally found the drool icon lol.
Waiting for the next vids to be on the street/track to see how she moves.
