Pinning the crank

[anaconda666]

Installing a Paxton on my '98 GTS. Manual says to drill 1 1/4" in to the balancer and crank. I have only been able to get 1" in and then it just stops. I guess I am hitting the crank which is harder steel. I have tried different drills at different speeds -with oil, without oil, pushed so hard that I broke a bit, and still can't get in to 1 1/4". Anyone else have an issue? Thanks, Ron.

 

[GR8_ASP]

Installing a Paxton on my '98 GTS. Manual says to drill 1 1/4" in to the balancer and crank. I have only been able to get 1" in and then it just stops. I guess I am hitting the crank which is harder steel. I have tried different drills at different speeds -with oil, without oil, pushed so hard that I broke a bit, and still can't get in to 1 1/4". Anyone else have an issue? Thanks, Ron.

When I did it I broke several bits as well. i used very good tungsten carbide drills. Not sure what type of drill bits you are using but the crankshaft is hard stuff.

 

[plumcrazy]

ditto, same here

 

[anaconda666]

Been using high speed steel bits. Will buy some tungsten carbide bits and keep trying. Thanks!

 

[VENOMIS]

Use solid carbide. I had a machine shop and carbide would cut just about anything. Be prepared though they are expensive! That carbide would drill out your tungston...

 

[anaconda666]

Did you use oil or dry?

 

[VENOMIS]

in that application i would use some type of cutting oil...

 

[VENOMIS]

If you wernt in such a hurry i could probably send you something. I have a chit load of cutters and drills bits from when i closed it. Be careful though carbide is very strong but also very brittle. It will shatter like glass, but thats why it cuts so dang well! So if you break the bit in the crank you would practicaly have to grind it out. SO BE CAREFULL!! You can PM me if you have any other questions. Be glad to help if I can.

 

[snakebitdave]

I just pinned my 96 GTS last week using Roe Racing's kit with provided drill bit guide tool, bolts, pins and drill bit (which seemed to be just a high speed bit). Per their instuctions I drilled the two holes without lube. Using a Makita right angle drill motor I didn't have to raise the engine or move the steering rack.

No problems encountered.

 

[KingSnake97]

Can you snap a few photos? I just bought a new balancer from dc motorsports. I would like to pin mine while its off the car.

 

[snakebitdave]

Can you snap a few photos? I just bought a new balancer from dc motorsports. I would like to pin mine while its off the car.

Too late for photos as it's all back together. You can see a picture of the kit on Roe Racing's web site.

 

[BullRider]

I just pinned my 96 GTS last week using Roe Racing's kit with provided drill bit guide tool, bolts, pins and drill bit (which seemed to be just a high speed bit). Per their instuctions I drilled the two holes without lube. Using a Makita right angle drill motor I didn't have to raise the engine or move the steering rack.

No problems encountered.

I pinned the crank during my ROE install, and there was no way that I could figure out how to drill them without raising the motor. You must be magic!

 

[Steve 00RT/10]

Can you snap a few photos? I just bought a new balancer from dc motorsports. I would like to pin mine while its off the car.

The crank pulley does not need to be removed to do this. I used a cobalt bit, air drill, and cutting fluid. It drilled like butter with the cobalt bit.

I pinned the crank during my ROE install, and there was no way that I could figure out how to drill them without raising the motor. You must be magic!

For me, this was the most time consuming part of the install as I didn't have the right tool to start with. I also found that the 12 o'clock position would not work on our car. I ended up around 11:50 after screwing around with several different positions to try and get the drill in there. I know a guy who did it with a flex drill bit set up. I guess it worked well, but was done after I was finished.

Steve

 

[crazyspeed]

and cutting fluid. It drilled like butter with the cobalt bit.



This is key..and the reason Steve 00RT was successful. Use COBALT (not tungsten..not carbide) along with lite oil and medium pressure....and SLOW rpm. You will be amazed at the difference.

Be careful not to horse the bit..as it is very brittle and will shatter like glass. If you break it off in the hole.....that would be disasterous.

Again, use Cobalt and slow rpm. I get my cobalt bits at Home Depot.

 

[Simms]

I pinned the crank during my ROE install, and there was no way that I could figure out how to drill them without raising the motor. You must be magic!

A right angle drill did the job for me.

 

[LPDesRoche]

Did it without raising the engine or removing the steering rack on my buddies 2000 GTS. Used the Roe supplied drill bit in their pinning kit and my Ingersol Rand pneumatic right angle drill. Went in with ease.

Not sure how you could actually pin the crank without removing the pulley, as there is no way to bolt a jig up there with the pulley still in place. You would just be drilling into the crank face and not half balancer/half crankshaft?

 

[Steve 00RT/10]

Not sure how you could actually pin the crank without removing the pulley, as there is no way to bolt a jig up there with the pulley still in place. You would just be drilling into the crank face and not half balancer/half crankshaft?

Remove 2 bolts from the crank pulley and bolt the jig in...put the recess out, mark the bit at 2.45” and butt this mark at the recess portion of the tool. This will accomplish the same drilling depth as having the recess in and the pulley off. The recess is the thickness of the crank pulley face.


Steve

 

[All Blue ACR]

Is this something required to resolve a weakness (dumb design)on all cars?

 

[99 R/T 10]

Usually required for all Supercharged applications. I would guess because the engine spins up so fast. I have heard of stock engines losing the balancers too, possibly due to the crank bolt not getting torqued properly to 250 FL lbs.

 

[Martin]

Usually required for all Supercharged applications. I would guess because the engine spins up so fast. I have heard of stock engines losing the balancers too, possibly due to the crank bolt not getting torqued properly to 250 FL lbs.

What he said

Superchargers require quite a bit of grunt to run them - and for big engine applications, they need between 80 and 100 HP at high RPMs. Add all the other accessory drives like power steering, air conditioning, water pump, and alternator, and you're now putting somewhere around 150 - 170 HP of load on your crank. It's not uncommon at all for the crank pulley to spin off.

 

[plumcrazy]

get rid of the junk OEM balancer too while you're doing this work, go with the ATI

 

[sircumference]

I have access to a CNC machine shop . All my viper engines have the front damper coming apart . I am looking at makeing a new steel damper for these engines . the more i make the cheaper thay will be is anyone interested , sorry at this time no prices but i thought i would put in the holes for pins and cut a keyway as well for those with the engine apart . . . these will run either the std outer ring which gives no problem and bonded rubber to the new hub .or a new outer ring as well thoughts please . I have a friend who has a business rebulding dampers and these are his suggestions . I am an engine reconditoner here in New zealand . . We can also make a new alloy belt pulley for the crank and offer the lost as one balanced as an assy .

 

[plumcrazy]

personally id trust ATI for MY engine.......im not gonna be a guinea pig. you never made one, dont know the cost or price and think we're gonna buy your stuff ?...eh nope