Possible GTS purchase

TORCH FRC

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Hi guys, I am looking at a 2000 Steel Gray GTS with 35K.

What should I look for? Cooling issues seem to mentioned quite often. How long will the stock clutch usaully last? Any big dollar potential issues that are well known with this car? It has Pilot sports (non PS2s) I will have the dealer change them as I know this tire has been discontinued for a while. I have a ****** but I want to drive the GTS pretty much every day I can. I use my C5 Vette pretty much as a DD since the weather is always nice in SD...will the Viper be too much?

Dealer wants 36K. Opinions?

-Thanks
 

eucharistos

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if ps1's you will need tires soon if not immediately,

your vette is a more friendly daily driver, but the viper is worth it except in stop and go in the heat for more than 30-45 minutes

the steel grays are beauties, but as mentioned, do you really want abs or not

negotiate hard, or consider a car from this board

you won't regret it

pls post up what you get,

good luck
 
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TORCH FRC

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Thanks for the quick replies.


if ps1's you will need tires soon if not immediately,

your vette is a more friendly daily driver, but the viper is worth it except in bumper to bumper in the heat for more than 30-45 minutes
the steel grays are beauties, but as mentioned, do you really want abs or not

negotiate hard, or consider a car from this board

you won't regret it

pls post up what you get,

good luck

Do you mean it will overheat?
 

01_VENM

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Thanks for the quick replies.




Do you mean it will overheat?

No...He's referring to the viper not having a dead pedal/ foot rest...:)
Viper will almost never overheat. The only time I hear and see overheating is when owner do their coolant changed and did not burp the system correctly.
 

eucharistos

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i should have said stop and go instead of bumper to bumper, as bumper to bumper could still be moving

i just find it tiring in stop and go, my clutch is a bit heavy (though i have been told it is on par with other vipers)

yes, it can get hot, but the a/c is good (america still makes the best auto a/c's :usa: )

if you are moving, albeit slowly, the car is more than fine

:drive:
 

plumcrazy

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who is the dealer ? there are a few dealers i wouldnt trust. obviously plenty i would.

tires are going to be needed.
 

IEATVETS

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Where are you located?

I will probably be selling my Steel Grey/Silver Stripe GTS with 6700 miles on the clock, though I will not sell until the end of July. Has stoptech big brake upgrade and mopar performance exhaust. I may let it go for $41K.
 
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TORCH FRC

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The dealers offer for my trade in was no good. Thanks for all the helpful replies.

I am still looking in San Diego. Not really motivated to sell my Vette but seeing that GTS everyday was getting to me (dealer is right next to my business). If I find a nice RT/10 / GTS (Gen 1 or 2)for low 30's I will see if I can make a deal.

The dealer is Millenium Motors in San Diego, for the poster that asked.
 

RTTTTed

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Car value depends on the car. Mileage is important but condition is what you need to look for. Hi-flow Cats are necessary for cool comnfort and a little better mileage (and a couple hp). Mods increase the value a bit, but it depends on how well the instal and tune is (or who did the work).

Exhuast, hp, wheels, tires, brake upgrades and stereo speakers are vital to many of us and if you're wanting to upgrade - do it before you buy the car! Exhaust $2,000; stereo speakers only $5-750; brake upgrades $1200-6,000; wheels and tires $5-7,000 etc. My heavily modded ($40,000 extra) is for sale at only $13,000 over stock value.

ACR, Paxton supercharged NOS = 802rwhp - ViperClub Classifieds

This car drives like a stocker (under 3500rpm at least) and sounds only slightly louder, but much sweeter than stock with 'street' corsa exhaust and Hi-flow cats.

Decide what mods you want and spend the extra money now. You'll love any Viper, but you're going to want to have the best and you won't like it when other Vipers pull away from you easily. It's also nice to know that with many modded Vipers there isn't many Vipers and no vettes that could leave you behind or stop in less distance than you.

Ted
 

RTTTTed

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I think that some of the Vendors here sell those "God made Vipers so that vette guys would have Heros." T-shirts.

Unless you live in Texas, AZ, Cal or some other place where your car needs Sunscreen, none of my Gen 2 Vipers have ever overheated. I did install a roe racing front fascia scoop in 1 GTS and will instal another fascia scoop into the ACR because it increases cooling while increasing the downforce of the car. ALL GOOD.

Ted
 
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TORCH FRC

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I think that some of the Vendors here sell those "God made Vipers so that vette guys would have Heros." T-shirts.

Unless you live in Texas, AZ, Cal or some other place where your car needs Sunscreen, none of my Gen 2 Vipers have ever overheated. I did install a roe racing front fascia scoop in 1 GTS and will instal another fascia scoop into the ACR because it increases cooling while increasing the downforce of the car. ALL GOOD.

Ted

:rolaugh:

Havent heard that one before
 

HyperViper

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The dealers offer for my trade in was no good. Thanks for all the helpful replies.

I am still looking in San Diego. Not really motivated to sell my Vette but seeing that GTS everyday was getting to me (dealer is right next to my business). If I find a nice RT/10 / GTS (Gen 1 or 2)for low 30's I will see if I can make a deal.

The dealer is Millenium Motors in San Diego, for the poster that asked.

Where is that? Mission Gorge Road? Grantville?
 

RTTTTed

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Unfortunately it's a depressed economy and that means that although the Vipers values (for the moment) are down all other vehicles are much, much worse. Since you posted a vette as a DD I think that you're beginning to understand what I mean.

There's a thread from a new 1500 mile vette that wanted to trade for a 99 GTS. It required a vette trade-in and he wasn't happy with a $6,000 shortfall for his vette. :(

It was suggested that he 'take the hit' and get rid of the vette before his resale value goes farther down the dumps. The Viper has an excellent possibility of increasing in value again next month when the Viper plant shuts down. All existing Vipers should increase in Value as they will instantly be much more collectable and Valuable, unlike the vette.

Vettes have been in production since '54? Kind of like Camaros in that billions were built and billions will continue to be built. Vette collectors go on about how rare their vettes are ... yah, 1 of several billion cars produced, LMAO. Total Viper production was just over 25,000 and probably half of those have been wrecked. Because of Carrol Shelby's involvment in the Viper program the Viper value will go up again when Carrol passes on.

Vettes? ha

Ted
 

Camfab

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A few simple things to look for.........

1) Look at the gaps around the hood, it's a huge piece and if it's been in a wreck it will have some sort of misalignment issues (more than likely). Do a search here on hood gaps.

2) Look at the calipers, if the Viper logo is not brilliant white and yellowed, it's either dirty or it's been on the track for some time. Track time is not bad, but it's something to consider.

3) Check the drivers side bolster on the left side of the seat. If it's had a large driver recklessly entering the car, it will have a small tear in this area.

4) Check the front airdam for scuff marks, most Vipers have them. If the car doesn't, then check to see if the lower air dam has a clear sticker over it. If the sticker is missing it's a sign of a repaint, most shops will not include this detail. It's not a big deal if it's been repainted correctly, but it could also be a sign of an accident.

5) Look at the hood very carefully under flourescent lighting. Check for hairline cracks in the front third of the hood. If you don't know yet, improper hood closure will lead to a cracked hood (got a spare $18,000 hanging around for a new hood). PLEASE do a search on proper hood closure and opening for that matter.

6) Check the simple things like dirty brake fluid, engine fluid levels and cleanliness and a full service history. You can run the VIN through the Dodge dealer to check for any service records. By the way the coolant jug is in the nose of the car. The tank you see under the hood is NOT were you fill it from.

The cars are super durable, but if you see even the smallest thing wrong with the car consider the consequences. This car isn't a Vette, if you thought any Vette parts were expensive your going to be in for the ruddest awakening in your life. Consider that all the fluids should be changed on the car when you purchase it.......engine oil, tranny, diff, coolant, clutch, brake etc.. If your a do-it yourselfer it's at least $300+ or about $750 at a shop.

The best recommendation I could give you, is to call DC performance and have them check the car out for you. I know there is another shop out by you, I believe it's A&C or something like that. Look here in the vendor section. Either way it'll be the best few hundred bucks you'll ever spend.
 

costanZo

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My clutch is pretty heavy as well in my 96. I test drove my buddies 01 and it seemed lighter.

i should have said stop and go instead of bumper to bumper, as bumper to bumper could still be moving

i just find it tiring in stop and go, my clutch is a bit heavy (though i have been told it is on par with other vipers)

yes, it can get hot, but the a/c is good (america still makes the best auto a/c's :usa: )

if you are moving, albeit slowly, the car is more than fine

:drive:
 

ACRSNK

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Car value depends on the car. Mileage is important but condition is what you need to look for. Hi-flow Cats are necessary for cool comnfort and a little better mileage (and a couple hp). Mods increase the value a bit, but it depends on how well the instal and tune is (or who did the work).

Exhuast, hp, wheels, tires, brake upgrades and stereo speakers are vital to many of us and if you're wanting to upgrade - do it before you buy the car! Exhaust $2,000; stereo speakers only $5-750; brake upgrades $1200-6,000; wheels and tires $5-7,000 etc. My heavily modded ($40,000 extra) is for sale at only $13,000 over stock value.

ACR, Paxton supercharged NOS = 802rwhp - ViperClub Classifieds

This car drives like a stocker (under 3500rpm at least) and sounds only slightly louder, but much sweeter than stock with 'street' corsa exhaust and Hi-flow cats.

Decide what mods you want and spend the extra money now. You'll love any Viper, but you're going to want to have the best and you won't like it when other Vipers pull away from you easily. It's also nice to know that with many modded Vipers there isn't many Vipers and no vettes that could leave you behind or stop in less distance than you.

Ted

Pretty obvious that no vetter could keep up with a modded Viper, unless its a new ZR1, but comparing apples to oranges never yields great results. There are plenty of modded Vettes out there that would destroy modded Vipers. Ever hear of Lingenfelter? A stock Z06 is a handful for a stock Viper. Once a car is modded, it doesn't matter if one is faster than the other, because its modded. To say no Vettes could keep up with a modded Viper is pretty common sence. One could also say that no Viper could keep up with a modded Vette. :rolleyes:
 

costanZo

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A few simple things to look for.........

1) Look at the gaps around the hood, it's a huge piece and if it's been in a wreck it will have some sort of misalignment issues (more than likely). Do a search here on hood gaps.

Viper's are hand built, so I don't believe all the gaps will be 100% the sme as one another. I have noticed this on mine and also on some of my friend's cars. Which gaps are you talking about specifically?

5) Look at the hood very carefully under flourescent lighting. Check for hairline cracks in the front third of the hood. If you don't know yet, improper hood closure will lead to a cracked hood (got a spare $18,000 hanging around for a new hood). PLEASE do a search on proper hood closure and opening for that matter.

Do you have any pictures of what to look for? The first time I got my car, I was showed correctly how to open and shut the hood. However, are there any threads on here showing you the precise way on how to open and close the hood and also some threads or pictures to show these hairline cracks on the hood you had mentioned? I'm pretty positive I have always opened and closed my hood the correct way, but if these cracks are hard to see and can happen easily, you have got me worried now :(
 

Camfab

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Viper's are hand built, so I don't believe all the gaps will be 100% the sme as one another. I have noticed this on mine and also on some of my friend's cars. Which gaps are you talking about specifically?

Your right they are hand built, but uneven or inconsistent gaps are a sure sign of a front end collision. Do a search, there are tons of threads on this as well as proper hood closure. The best way to check your hood is with bright flourescent lighting. You can even use one of the hand held types.


Do you have any pictures of what to look for? The first time I got my car, I was showed correctly how to open and shut the hood. However, are there any threads on here showing you the precise way on how to open and close the hood and also some threads or pictures to show these hairline cracks on the hood you had mentioned? I'm pretty positive I have always opened and closed my hood the correct way, but if these cracks are hard to see and can happen easily, you have got me worried now :(

If your really stumped on hood procedure, I can take some pics and outline the procedure.
 

costanZo

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If your really stumped on hood procedure, I can take some pics and outline the procedure.

If you don't mind I would love that! :2tu:

I'm pretty positive I'm doing it just right, but for safety sake, considering how much the damn hood costs haha, I would love to just double check and confirm before any potential harm could be possible to the hood over long periods of time if for some reason I were doing something incorrect.

Thanks,
Anthony
 

RTTTTed

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Pretty obvious that no vetter could keep up with a modded Viper, unless its a new ZR1, but comparing apples to oranges never yields great results. There are plenty of modded Vettes out there that would destroy modded Vipers. Ever hear of Lingenfelter? A stock Z06 is a handful for a stock Viper. Once a car is modded, it doesn't matter if one is faster than the other, because its modded. To say no Vettes could keep up with a modded Viper is pretty common sence. One could also say that no Viper could keep up with a modded Vette. :rolleyes:

I was speaking in general terms and not referring to the very few that are heavily modded vettes making over 750rwhp - that I've never seen. I have seen many many modified Vipers.

I wasn't speaking in absolutes.
 

Catwood

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The dealers offer for my trade in was no good. Thanks for all the helpful replies.

I am still looking in San Diego. Not really motivated to sell my Vette but seeing that GTS everyday was getting to me (dealer is right next to my business). If I find a nice RT/10 / GTS (Gen 1 or 2)for low 30's I will see if I can make a deal.

The dealer is Millenium Motors in San Diego, for the poster that asked.


Offer $20K strip the interior and go to the track.


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