Powered Subwoofer

[DPViper]

I have replaced my door speakers and I am looking to add a powered sub in the back of my coupe. I've seen a number of units that have preamp and line level inputs and I am trying to figure out the easiest/best way to connect the sub to the system. I'd like to keep the stock head unit and amp and not cut anything. I had a powered Bazooka in my Jeep and it sounded great. Can I feed the sub with the leads for the existing sub or rear speakers or should I wire the sub directly to the amp under the seat? Thanks for any suggestions.

 

[Mad Max 93 RT10]

Ok two things
1. Are you planning on keeping the factory sub working?
2. can you get to the factory subs amp?

The easiest way to do this is grab the speaker wires off the factory sub and run them to the high level input of the new sub. A bazooka should work great in your car too just like your Jeep. I would highly recommend disconnecting the wires at the sub itself and not plan on using it along with your new sub. With the way I've just told you you should get an already crossed over signal for the new sub (meaning you should hear no voices coming from the new sub). If you need more info just ask. JD

 

[Shandon]

Hey DP. I have tried about everything short of a big custom box install to get good bass (sub) sound in the car. I have the answer though and you have experience. Get a 8"Bazooka tube and put it on the passanger floor. Face the speaker into the foot well and the thing will just blast! It actually shakes the car! Now I have changed the amp out and done some major changes to the audio system but just for bass thats the best I have found. Its removabe and there is room for my wifes feet if I want to leave it in. I have the JL sub in the oem spot and its ok

So what I do is this. Use the tube 90% of the time. When I track the car or have a passanger for long rides I disconnedt the tube and connect the normal sub right back up. Works awesome!!!

 

[DPViper]

Thanks guys. I was hoping to put the Bazooka in the back of the coupe with quick disconnects so I could easily remove the sub and take my golf clubs . Using the existing sub leads would be much easier than trying to connect directly to the amp. Mad Max - have you connected a powered sub to the existing sub leads? Thanks.

 

[viperfuntime]

http://forums.viperclub.org/srt10-s...-2009-few-improvements-worth-considering.html

Ask and you shall receive. Just posted this a couple weeks back.

 

[DPViper]

Thanks Viperfuntime. I don't know how I missed the write up. Please tell me how to figure which speaker wires to tap into. Did you leave the stock sub connected to the stock amp? Is there any way to power the sub without running the sub wire all the way to the battery? Thanks!

 

[viperfuntime]

Thanks Viperfuntime. I don't know how I missed the write up. Please tell me how to figure which speaker wires to tap into. Did you leave the stock sub connected to the stock amp? Is there any way to power the sub without running the sub wire all the way to the battery? Thanks!

I removed the stock sub entirely to save some weight (albeit minimal). You will need to tap into the front left and front right signals before they run into the amp so the powered sub knows when to turn on via a signal from the head unit. Do NOT tap into the outgoing wiring coming from amp because that is amplified and the powered sub is already amplified. It will burn up your amp on the powered sub.

Once you do this you need to tap into the battery (in trunk compartment) for power and ground. Finally you need to run a wire (if your powered sub has remote gain adjustability) to your console as I did. I mounted mine in the center console but you can also just put it in your center console box if you want it out of the way. I didn't want to open it up each time I wanted to adjust the gain which is more often than you think depending on the type of music you listen to.

From there you connect it up and you are in business. The wire running from the amp to the stock sub I just cut clean in the event someone wants to put it back in.

The sound is incredible. It will go from not wanting to listen to music in your Viper because the sound stinks to wanting to listen to music in your viper because it rocks.

I have had probably ten systems throughout the years I have spent from $3000-$8000 on each of them and I can tell you my system now compares in quality to those systems with the new speakers and powered sub for a lot less.

But as they say to each is own. It is great for my situation.

Jeff



The powered sub I have is a 12" and fits perfectly. It can be removed in 10 seconds and you can track the car. What is nice

 

[viperfuntime]

Thanks Viperfuntime. I don't know how I missed the write up. Please tell me how to figure which speaker wires to tap into. Did you leave the stock sub connected to the stock amp? Is there any way to power the sub without running the sub wire all the way to the battery? Thanks!

Call your dealer and ask them to send you a diagram of the speaker wires from the head unit to the amp. The factory diagram will tell you which ones are front right and left.

 

[DPViper]

OK....I bought a Infinity Basslink on Ebay and I think it will fit perfect in the back of my coupe. Here are the specs:

• 10" woofer and 10" passive radiator
• Class D 200-watt amplifier
• Wired volume control with 16-foot cable
• Frequency response 20-120 Hz
• Low-pass crossover variable from 50-120 Hz at 12 dB per octave
• Speaker and line-level inputs
• Phase switch
• Bass boost adjusts from -6 dB to +3 dB at 40 Hz
• 25-amp fuse
• Auto turn-on with speaker-level inputs
• Remote turn-on lead (12V) required for use with RCA inputs
• 19' speaker-level input wires with plug-in harness included
• 14-½"W x 13-3/8"H x 9-7/8"D
• Warranty: 1 year

Question: Do I hook it up to the speaker leads before the factory amp or do I hook it up to the factory sub outputs? How do I determine which wires to tap? Any suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks

 

[viperfuntime]

Call your dealer and ask them to send you a diagram of the speaker wires from the head unit to the amp. The factory diagram will tell you which ones are front right and left.

I would call your dealer and speak to the service department about getting a copy of the diagram. That is what I did. And then tap into wires being sent to the amp "preamp" from the deck for signal. Good luck.

 

[DPViper]

Well I finally got around to installing the subwoofer and what a difference it makes. The sub cost less than $200 and sounds great. As suggested by Viperfuntime, I went to the dealer and they gave me the stereo diagram. I then disconnected the existing subwoofer and connected the Basslink to the front speaker leads AFTER the amp under the passenger seat. I then mounted the new sub to a trimmed board that fits in the lowest section in the rear so the sub won't move around when I'm driving. I added some black carpet to the board and it almost looks like the sub was made for the car. I used wire disconnects so I can quickly remove the sub if I need to carry luggage/golf clubs, etc. Sorry about the photo....I took it with my phone. This was definitely worth the trouble. Thanks

 

[Steve-Indy]

Oh, DPViper...you are sliding toward a new low...from Supercharger to Subwoofer!!!

By the way, I was in our 08 on I-69 and pulled along beside you-know-who driving your (formerly) S/C 03 Viper...gave a nod then hit it...he left me like I was in reverse!!! That car puts down some real HP!!!!

 

[DPViper]

I'm glad you-know-who is enjoying the car. At least now I have better tunes than he does! I'm told the supercharged 03 is faster than my 08 but I wouldn't know since I never took either over 2500 rpms.....

 

[albinonile]

dp--did you do any of the dyna mat or any other sound deadening prep?--- If not, how is the rattling factor with the new sub---and did you connect the sub after the amp or wire it preamp?

 

[DPViper]

I didn't do any dynamat and there aren't any rattles. This isn't an earth moving type sub it just adds good clean bottom end to the sound. I wired the sub after the car amp. The sub can sense power from the stereo and turns on and off automatically. This feature doesn't work with the preamp feed. Thanks

 

[viperfuntime]

I didn't do any dynamat and there aren't any rattles. This isn't an earth moving type sub it just adds good clean bottom end to the sound. I wired the sub after the car amp. The sub can sense power from the stereo and turns on and off automatically. This feature doesn't work with the preamp feed. Thanks

Nice job on the sub install. Looks nice and clean. Not sure if it matters to you or not but when I connected the wiring coming out of the factory amp TO the powered sub it fried the subs amp and I had to get another from the manufacturer of my sub. Instead I had to tap into the leads going from the deck TO the factory amp which are not powered yet, only signal.

Be careful and make sure you if you smell something to pull over and disconnect your amp. Mine worked fine for a little bit and then it fried.