PROJECT: "******** ACR-700R" Has Begun

[FastGuy68]

Aproximately 4 hours to pull heads and complete exhaust system......
Amazing amount of oil in the intake runners....
These cars are very easy to work on and the only real PITA was having to STILL raise the passenger side of the engine to remove the header with the head removed!!
I can't wait to see how much weight I will be taking off as the stock exhaust is HEAVY!!

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[FastGuy68]

What RWHP number looking for? It seems low 600's (600-615rwhp) are what the Gen IV's will do with the mods you are performing.

Shooting for 620 RWHP but we'll see what happens. I'm going to be trying some better spark plugs, running 100 oct. unleaded Sunoco Race Gas etc. to get every last drop out of it.

 

[FastGuy68]

Curious. Wouldn't it be more efficient to pull the motor and beef up the bottom end now? Also, are you goung to change the pistons out? I look forward to reading about your progress. Another change you might consider is sending your transmission out to Donato Engineering to have him take it apart, shot ball peen the parts ( strengthens them for higher HP applications), and install a .8 fifth gear and a .63 sixth gear. Having a true six speed makes a considerable difference. If the car is a 2010, you already have the .8 fifth gear but not the .63 sixth gear. ( I cannot see enough detail in the rear spoiler endplates to tell which year it is.)

Bob, it's only a 2009 so I will be looking at the transmission gearing at some point in the future. My plan was to see where I was after doing the heads, intake & exhaust before pulling the whole motor next winter to nuke proof the bottom end. I am hopefull there may be a cam or electronics available by then to take advantage of increasing the compression slightly. Also, I started this so late I was affraid doing the "WHOLE MOTOR" might jeapardize my time to get it all done and still have time to enjoy the car this summer.

 

[FastGuy68]

Good to try those titanium wraps.
Worked well with me so far.

Also, I would strongly suggest to replace the mounts with poly ones, because you will always have loose nuts all around the exhaust system.

Will you replace the flywheel with any lighter one?
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Is that the DEI wrap in your photo? Also, as I stated earlier I'm going to hold off on doing the poly motor mounts for now. I am doing the trans mount for now.
As for the flywheel......I am waiting to do anything with that till I actually pull the motor next winter.

 

[tzortzViper]

Is that the DEI wrap in your photo? Also, as I stated earlier I'm going to hold off on doing the poly motor mounts for now. I am doing the trans mount for now.
As for the flywheel......I am waiting to do anything with that till I actually pull the motor next winter.

Yes it is the DEI Titanium wrap. It works well with me.
Actually I did not have the chance to compare it with the jet-coating headers, but keeps the temps much lower than what would be with naked headers.
Don't forget to wrap also the cables and the clutch line

Also,I would suggest you tighten the header section bolts before you fix the upper part fasteners on the heads.
Your headers will be a little thicker because of wrapping, so it would be a little more difficult to place every bolt on the section flange.

So, better finish with the section flange and later fix the whole header system on the heads.

Be carefull, I DO NOT mean to try to put the whole headers as one piece, but only to tighten them while are already placed in the engine bay.




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[FastGuy68]

Yes it is the DEI Titanium wrap. It works well with me.
Actually I did not have the chance to compare it with the jet-coating headers, but keeps the temps much lower than what would be with naked headers.
Don't forget to wrap also the cables and the clutch line

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How many feet of wrap did you need? I have 100' and hope that's plenty.

 

[FastGuy68]

Well, I thoought I would post a few pictures of my intake ports so everyone can see how much oil the stock crankcase venting puts into your cylinders. Keep in mind my car has less than 500 miles on it........

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In this last pic of the head you can actually see oil running out the intake ports!!

 

[tzortzViper]

How many feet of wrap did you need? I have 100' and hope that's plenty.

Yes 100ft will be enough for both headers, up to the merge collectors.

You will need more if you want to wrap the mufflers and the turns also.

Gosh this is full of oil.
Did you finish with your catch can?

I am so curious to see it...





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[redtanrt10]

Michael, every Gen IV I've seen opened up has oil in the intake like this. Maybe the Gen III's do this too but I never heard issues. Bernie at Tomball told me last spring of folks buring up motors from this. ViperX had showed me his intake before that and then build a good can set up that I copied (and posted in the DIY section). Your can will not only save your motor, it will probably pick up 5-10 lost hp from fuel mix/timing. Heading to the NARRA event this weekend, get that viper up and running! Mike

 

[FastGuy68]

Michael, every Gen IV I've seen opened up has oil in the intake like this. Maybe the Gen III's do this too but I never heard issues. Bernie at Tomball told me last spring of folks buring up motors from this. ViperX had showed me his intake before that and then build a good can set up that I copied (and posted in the DIY section). Your can will not only save your motor, it will probably pick up 5-10 lost hp from fuel mix/timing. Heading to the NARRA event this weekend, get that viper up and running! Mike

If you see Toddy from BBG this weekend ask him about the crankcase vent system I designed for him. He will be selling a "kit" similar the ACR-X kit but this one is even better!! My car will be the 1st to have one and trust me it is sweet!!

 

[BlknBlu]

If you see Toddy from BBG this weekend ask him about the crankcase vent system I designed for him. He will be selling a "kit" similar the ACR-X kit but this one is even better!! My car will be the 1st to have one and trust me it is sweet!!

MIke,


Will it require additional work to the valve covers or will it be a DIY kit?

Bruce

 

[KingSnake97]

How does the lower half of the header look with the titanium wrap?

 

[tzortzViper]

How does the lower half of the header look with the titanium wrap?

I tried million combinations, I ended up to the following...

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and...

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[FastGuy68]

Spark plugs arrived today.....

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[FastGuy68]

Heads & intake getting ready for FedEX.......

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[FastGuy68]

MIke,


Will it require additional work to the valve covers or will it be a DIY kit?

Bruce

Bruce-

It will be a DIY kit but there will be some changes on the valve cover that can be done by the user. Details will be out as soon as we get the last part in.

 

[FastGuy68]

How does the lower half of the header look with the titanium wrap?

Once mine are done I'll throw up some pics here.

 

[tzortzViper]

Spark plugs arrived today.....

How did you decide to go with the DENSO ITL20 ?




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[FastGuy68]

How did you decide to go with the DENSO ITL20 ?

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Well, the stock Champion Plugs honestly looked like junk! I don't mean the color, I mean the build quality of the plugs themselves. I can't tell you how many of mine had displaced grounds which sure makes it hard to get the correct flame! I'll try to get some pics for you tomorrow.
As for the DENSO plugs.....well I know they are top shelf quality bar none. They use those same plugs in F-1 engines. I don't mind $100 for new plugs if there high quality like the DENSO are. Go look at on in person and then compair them to ANY other plug made and you'll see what I mean. Besides that, I like the fact Iridium probably arrived here from outer space!

 

[tzortzViper]

Well, the stock Champion Plugs honestly looked like junk! I don't mean the color, I mean the build quality of the plugs themselves. I can't tell you how many of mine had displaced grounds which sure makes it hard to get the correct flame! I'll try to get some pics for you tomorrow.
As for the DENSO plugs.....well I know they are top shelf quality bar none. They use those same plugs in F-1 engines. I don't mind $100 for new plugs if there high quality like the DENSO are. Go look at on in person and then compair them to ANY other plug made and you'll see what I mean. Besides that, I like the fact Iridium probably arrived here from outer space!

Yes I can see they are state of art.

But is it true that in some cases iridium would lower the power in the high rpm range?
I think I had read that our pcm is not calibrated to work with the iridium ohmic resistance which is different to the stock ones.

Correct me if wrong.

 

[mjorgensen Woodhouse]

I have been told that the electrode will get hotter then the copper and actually cause pre ignition in a Viper, but have nothing, but racing experience that using the copper is better, you just change them more often like so many things on a race car. Maybe on a dyno pull they would be better, but in prolonged use at high temps I would think not. But that is just MHO.

 

[VicTxV10]

Not to hijack the thread, but here is a pic of my 08 intake after 17,000 miles before porting by BBG. Once a year track time at Viper days, the rest is street driving. You see there is oil and/or carbon build up.

 

[FastGuy68]

I have been told that the electrode will get hotter then the copper and actually cause pre ignition in a Viper, but have nothing, but racing experience that using the copper is better, you just change them more often like so many things on a race car. Maybe on a dyno pull they would be better, but in prolonged use at high temps I would think not. But that is just MHO.

Hey Mark, if I burn a piston then it will be just one more excuse to do the bottom end!

 

[FastGuy68]

Yes I can see they are state of art.

But is it true that in some cases iridium would lower the power in the high rpm range?
I think I had read that our pcm is not calibrated to work with the iridium ohmic resistance which is different to the stock ones.

Correct me if wrong.

Well, from what I have seen and read they should work very well in the 8.4L engine. I have seen some real world dyno results with these plugs and they are pretty damn impressive. Also, these motors don't turn at a very high RPM and the Denso Racing plugs can easily handle 6500 RPM.

 

[VicTxV10]

I have been told that the electrode will get hotter then the copper and actually cause pre ignition in a Viper, but have nothing, but racing experience that using the copper is better, you just change them more often like so many things on a race car. Maybe on a dyno pull they would be better, but in prolonged use at high temps I would think not. But that is just MHO.

Are iridium plugs ok for street cars with maybe one or two track days a year? I just installed a set of Autolite XP5263 Iridium in my 08. Should I remove and install copper ones?

 

[FastGuy68]

Just a quick update, the heads & intake should arrive at BBG tomorrow so he can finally do his thang on them. Fedex is the only way to go when shipping parts like this.

I am still waiting for one part that is on back order to complete my new crankcase venting system but hopefully it willl get here by next week.

Also just got my 4 cases of the new MOBIL 1 0W-50 Race Oil from my local distributor. I like the lable that says "Racing Use Only"!! Since I won't be running any cats this oil should be a great option for track days.

Finally, tomorrow I will be wrapping the headers with the DEI Titanium Wrap. The more I look at it the less I want to get started on it....

 

[99FRC]

Just a quick update, the heads & intake should arrive at BBG tomorrow so he can finally do his thang on them. Fedex is the only way to go when shipping parts like this.

I am still waiting for one part that is on back order to complete my new crankcase venting system but hopefully it willl get here by next week.

Also just got my 4 cases of the new MOBIL 1 0W-50 Race Oil from my local distributor. I like the lable that says "Racing Use Only"!! Since I won't be running any cats this oil should be a great option for track days.

Finally, tomorrow I will be wrapping the headers with the DEI Titanium Wrap. The more I look at it the less I want to get started on it....

I'm doing a similar build with my Gen IV with a few minor differences (no mopar PCM, coated belenger exhaust with cats, sparkpugs, etc.) We are trying to hit 600rwhp fully smog/street legal...I'll let you know the results sometime next week.

 

[FastGuy68]

I'm doing a similar build with my Gen IV with a few minor differences (no mopar PCM, coated belenger exhaust with cats, sparkpugs, etc.) We are trying to hit 600rwhp fully smog/street legal...I'll let you know the results sometime next week.

Are you doing any electronic programming changes to the engine controller? Just wondering as I don't see the stock ECM letting you get there without throwing all sorts of codes. Please do give an update when done!

 

[99FRC]

Are you doing any electronic programming changes to the engine controller? Just wondering as I don't see the stock ECM letting you get there without throwing all sorts of codes. Please do give an update when done!

No Mopar PCM yet and we are at 587rwhp without porting the heads(full belenger with cat,ported intake,K&N filter and airbox mod). I hope the stock computer will let us get to 600rwhp without throwing all sorts of codes. So far we have been lucky and only had a few insufficient cat heat codes.

The stock heads are very good (factory CNC). I think we can gain an honest 20rwhp with additional porting

 

[VicTxV10]

No Mopar PCM yet and we are at 587rwhp without porting the heads(full belenger with cat,ported intake,K&N filter and airbox mod). I hope the stock computer will let us get to 600rwhp without throwing all sorts of codes. So far we have been lucky and only had a few insufficient cat heat codes.

The stock heads are very good (factory CNC). I think we can gain an honest 20rwhp with additional porting

I'm going to dyno tomorrow. I have the full BBG/ACRX headers with cat, ported intake, K&N plus the Mopar PCM. I'll see how close I get you your numbers. What is your torque number?