Question About Unbolting Injectors-'98 RT/10

[Vipuronr]

As some of you know, I am tring to make the engine compartment on my '98 RT/10 equal what the outside looks like. My approach has been to replace all screws/bolts/nuts with stainless steel. Where there are machine threads, using hex cap screws.

Now that I have replaced nearly all that needed it, I want to replace the bolts that hold down the injectors. While out, will clean and spray clear on the hold down brackets.

My question: Is there anything I need to know before I remove the bolt? Don't want any surprises like they spring out or have a tendency to fall under the manifold and lovely things like that.

Appreciate any help.

Will take some before/after pics when I make this (small) change.

Thanks.

Peter

 

[Vipuronr]

I know I'm being unusually cautious, but I figured better to ask then to be surprised!

 

[PhoenixGTS]

You might get a slight movement from the injector if there is any spring left in the o-rings, but the metal hold down tab is surprisingly low tech. If you remove the injectors, do all new o-rings.

 

[plumcrazy]

just dont drop it. you'll be fine

 

[Vipuronr]

Okay, as to O-rings, wasn't planning on removing the injectors, just changing the bolts and cleaning up the metal hold down tabs.

So, if I remove the bolt, is there any issue with leaving it on the car unbolted....like, slipping from its position and falling under the manifold.

Yes, this type of thing happened to me years ago when I was putting one of my motors back together...bummer, had to remove the manifold just to get the damn bolt out....and then there was the time I dropped one of the pushrods....geez, had to take the manifold and galley cover off to get to it.

Soooooooo, just preparing so I don't have any of those issues!

Thanks.

Peter

 

[Rollin4]

just dont drop it. you'll be fine

Like plum says "just don't drop it"

 

[Vipuronr]

Okay, okay, I won't drop it!

 

[1TONY1]

You will be fine, the injectors will not move just by removing the bolt and hold down. To be safe don't turn on the ignition while you are doing this. That way the fuel pump won't be pressurizing the system. Of course you could go ahead and pull the injectors and have them cleaned

 

[RTTTTed]

Although I think the bolts are steel the hold down plates are aluminium. That being the case, a telescopic magnet should be able to grab bolts if you drop one, but not the holddown plates.

Ted

 

[DrumrBoy]

Okay, as to O-rings, wasn't planning on removing the injectors, just changing the bolts and cleaning up the metal hold down tabs.

If all you're trying to do is spiff up the hold down plates, no worries, you're fine....no unexpected stuff happens.

If you're not going to remove the injector (and replace the o-ring) I'd recommend not twisting or otherwise disturbing the injector when the hold down is off.....leave the happy old-o-ring seal where it is!.

Also, like Tony said, don't turn the ignition on when you've got the hold down plate, the pressure could cause unwanted movement.

The plates themselves are a relatively crappy finish, prepare to polish them alot if you want them to look great (i.e., its not just a cleaning exercise).

Good luck.....and post pix!

 

[Vipuronr]

Thanks to all for your advice. Will start in a few days and post before/after pics.

I believe with things like this, better to be safe than sorry!

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

Still haven't found that shrink yet?

 

[Vipuronr]

No, not yet.....but, I am learning to count stainless steel screws when I go to sleep!

 

[ViperTony]

So, if I remove the bolt, is there any issue with leaving it on the car unbolted....like, slipping from its position and falling under the manifold.

Peter

Yes, there will be an issue as in the injector may creep up and out from pressure in the fuel system and spraying some gas on you and the engine. Ask me how I know this.

 

[Vipuronr]

The car hasn't been out since Wednesday, so wouldn't the pressure in the system dissipate over?

Thanks.

 

[ViperTony]

The car hasn't been out since Wednesday, so wouldn't the pressure in the system dissipate over?

Thanks.

I don't know but since it happened to me I just relieve the fuel pressure by pulling the fuse for the fuel pump, starting the Viper and letting it run until it dies. Quick and cheap insurance, for me.

 

[Vipuronr]

Sounds like good advice, I'll keep that in mind when I decide to do this.

Thanks again.

 

[Asp Man]

The plates themselves are a relatively crappy finish, prepare to polish them alot if you want them to look great (i.e., its not just a cleaning exercise).

Good luck.....and post pix!

Did mine once, about 4 years ago. Haven't touched them since, though if your engine gets wet, they'd probably spot up easy. A little bit of Mothers' is all I used.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Vipuronr]

Great! That is what I want it to look like.

Thanks.

 

[Vipuronr]

Well, here is a link to the before pictures of the injectors... yuk:

http://forums.viperclub.org/rt-10-g...-changing-injector-bolts-stainless-steel.html

For the hold down pieces, plan on polishing as much as I can and then use clear coat rattle can paint to protect. Hopefully, there is a high temp clear! The bolts I am going to switch to hex button head screws (bolts).

I also found "t-bolt" stainless hose clamps for the smooth tubes that are out of a performance catalog. Look a little cooler than the usual screw clamps.

Thanks.

 

[Ratical2]

" Hopefully, there is a high temp clear! The bolts I am going to switch to hex button head screws (bolts)."

VHT has a rattle can clear coat good to 900F for brake applications.

Caswell Inc. - VHT Specialty Coatings

I am sure there other options as well.

 

[PhoenixGTS]

....like, slipping from its position and falling under the manifold.

Yes, this type of thing happened to me years ago when I was putting one of my motors back together...

To be safe that there is zero fuel pressure, simply bleed the shrader valve that is on the top-inside of the passenger side of the intake manifold once the car is off and you are ready to get started. That is connected directly to the fuel passage so opening the valve (like you are letting air out of a tire). Just hold a rag around it in case any fuel spurts out.

 

[Vipuronr]

Anyone have a pic of the valve, so I know what I am looking for?

Also, Radical, thanks for the tip on the hi-temp brake VHT paint.

Thanks.

 

[plumcrazy]

its on the passenger side about 3/4 of the way back on the top of the intake. its brass and the cap on it wil unscrew . cant miss it.

 

[Vipuronr]

Cool, thanks....

BTW, is there any "real" reason I would need to torque down the injector bolts. I know many factory specs call for such a thing, but haven't done that for years...except for things like head bolts and the like.

Thoughts?

 

[Roy]

Hy, do you only replace them for the eye, or does it also has an other "technical" background?

 

[Vipuronr]

This is strictly for show, as I wanted to replace the engine compartment nuts/bolts/screws with stainless steel as much as possible....both for looks and for non-rusting.

For the injector bolts, want to replace with hex-button head screws (bolts as far as I'm concerned), and buff out the hold down plates. Nothing technical, not replacing injectors or O-rings.

Thanks.