Quick Release Battery Panel Cover with Mounted Connector for Battery Tender

[SSGNRDZ_28]

I wanted to share my solution for the less-than-ideal battery panel. This is a prototype of the final made from rapid prototype material (and a bad spray paint job), however, it will ultimately be made of 6061-T6 aluminum powder coated a low gloss black to match the trunk. I’ll be taking this to the local VCA meeting tomorrow to get feedback.

Stainless steel quick-release fasteners (the same type used on race cars and aircraft) make quick work of removing or installing the panel and are Phillips head instead of torx. The threaded receptacles install in the OEM holes with a nut. The OEM holes do need to be enlarged slightly to 15/32” although this does not prevent returning the car to stock. There is no hardware to lose because the fasteners are retained in the panel. The fasteners are recessed in the panel allowing the carpet to lay flat. A high grade foam strip seals the panel once tightened.

As an added feature there is an optional connector mount for a battery tender. This is accessible through the rear of the car. The SAE 2 Pin connector has a rubber cap to keep the weather out. A second set of connectors allow the panel to be quickly removed while the fused ring terminal harness remains securely attached to the battery / car wiring. No hood to open to plug in the battery tender, just plug it in. This is also more efficient electrically given the short run to the battery.

This solution is lighter than stock – the panel alone probably by an estimated 1lb and the panel + connector mount probably equal to the stock panel + fasteners. Final weights will be taken when parts arrive. There is no longer a question of how tight to tighten the torx screws and the panel will not bend. Pending FEA analysis of the OEM panel, it is estimated to be stronger than stock, deflecting less under load. All hardware is stainless steel and the panel and wiring are built using automotive and motorsports spec methods. PM me if interested in getting one of these for yourself.

Please excuse the bad photos - I had low light to work with.

 

[AbsolutHank]

You're the man! Price it right and it'll sell like hotcakes!

 

[jknappster]

I'm also interested if priced right!

 

[Steve-Indy]

Sounds like a GREAT improvement to me. This should really make battry care/changing a breeze. It would also afford QUICK access to the battery terminals for emergency disconnection.

Looking forward to seeing the prototype !!

 

[RedFang]

WELL DONE! I like the easy access for reasons mentioned above. I'll be watchng or updates and availability.

 

[ACRsnake]

interested ......

 

[bluesrt]

nice job... i may want 2

 

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Thanks for the feedback guys. I’ll keep everyone posted on the progress. I have a few more things to check up on before I start production. In the meantime keep letting me know if you are interested so I can gauge quantities. FYI pricing will be in the $200 range for the panel and the $100 range for the connector / bracket.

How many people would not buy this because you have to open up the holes by ~0.05”-0.1”? One of the options that I am looking into is a smaller quick release receptacle to avoid drilling which is obviously ideal but this may add cost because it may need to be a custom solution.

Here is a picture from the rear. As you can see the connector blends in very well.

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[Steve737]

I would be interested as long as it doesn't require any drilling. Looks good thanks for your efforts. Steve

 

[Steve-Indy]

Saw the prototype yesterday...SLICK idea !!!! I would prefer a "no alter the original' situation with the fasteners...but it's not a deal breaker.

 

[LifeIsGood]

I don't have a dog in this fight (I have a GEN II), but I know a number of owners have been complaining about this for a long time. I think it's a great idea and appreciate the OP for doing this. Why can't there be 2 options. One for those that 'MUST KEEP MY VIPER STOCK' (or at least be able to return it to stock) and the other option for those that have a viper to drive, play with, upgrade, downgrade, sidegrade, keep 'til we die and don't care diddly about keeping it stock.

 

[GreenVenom]

This is a great idea, would prefer no alterations though.
The stock configuration is a PIA!!! plus mine leaked on the way home from VOI, of course it took 11 hours driving in rain to find out I need a new gasket.

 

[Steve-Indy]

Christmas is coming...I need these for my Wife...make a GREAT present(s) !!

 

[SSGNRDZ_28]

I don't have a dog in this fight (I have a GEN II), but I know a number of owners have been complaining about this for a long time. I think it's a great idea and appreciate the OP for doing this. Why can't there be 2 options. One for those that 'MUST KEEP MY VIPER STOCK' (or at least be able to return it to stock) and the other option for those that have a viper to drive, play with, upgrade, downgrade, sidegrade, keep 'til we die and don't care diddly about keeping it stock.

The no-alterations design is in the works and will likely be a ~$50 upgrade for those not looking to drill. I can appreciate the desire to keep things absolutely stock. I will keep everyone informed.

For those that don’t know the stock hole size really doesn’t mean anything for functionality of the stock plate. The OEM holes are not necessarily round (or clean) and oversized for the screws at about 0.390” (torx screw diameter ~0.2"). Ultimately the nut plate and torx screw can move within this hole and the final resting place is determined by the OEM panel. Opening this to 0.468” (0.078” more than OEM or a little more than the difference in diameter between a dime and penny) as required for the receptacles retains full OEM convertibility and in my opinion actually makes it a nicer hole (round, no rough edges, etc.). I think even an expert would be hard pressed to know this hole had been drilled.

This is a great idea, would prefer no alterations though.
The stock configuration is a PIA!!! plus mine leaked on the way home from VOI, of course it took 11 hours driving in rain to find out I need a new gasket.

In my experience the leaking can be attributed to several problems with the original panel. How tight to tighten the torx screws? Too loose and there is no seal. Too tight and you may bend the panel causing seal issues. The stock panel is not flat so perfectly tightening it seems to be a requirement. Also the stock foam doesn’t spring back to life to fill in the gaps and account for errors. My wife noticed extra road noise one trip this year as mine was apparently not all the way down. This certainly could have been water had it been raining.

Christmas is coming...I need these for my Wife...make a GREAT present(s) !!

Since Steve mentioned Christmas this is not likely to be ready by then but early January is a definite possibility. I want everything to be right, be tested, and work the first time so won't go into production until the time is right.

 

[Nine Ball]

My Battery Tender charges the battery just fine, using the positive terminal under the hood, and I ground it off of a bolt head on the thermostat housing.

But, I agree that replacing the battery is a PITA with those long-winded bolts in the trunk. Maybe build a version that bolts to the original bolt holes, but has an easily removable cover that allows quick access inside that area. This would be good for getting to the terminals quickly, but you'd still need to remove the entire panel to swap the battery out (very rare). It would be a 2-piece cover with an outer perimeter that bolts down like stock, with a quick release Dzus fastener trap door.

 

[SSGNRDZ_28]

My Battery Tender charges the battery just fine, using the positive terminal under the hood, and I ground it off of a bolt head on the thermostat housing.

But, I agree that replacing the battery is a PITA with those long-winded bolts in the trunk. Maybe build a version that bolts to the original bolt holes, but has an easily removable cover that allows quick access inside that area. This would be good for getting to the terminals quickly, but you'd still need to remove the entire panel to swap the battery out (very rare). It would be a 2-piece cover with an outer perimeter that bolts down like stock, with a quick release Dzus fastener trap door.

This charging connector is more of an optional convenience upgrade to the panel. For sure not everyone will want it and I’m sure many will be fine with their existing methods of charging. For those who don’t want to open their hoods and clamp the charger on every time, etc., this provides a light weight semi-permanent installation. I've been using the prototype for charging purposes for the last week and it is very convenient.

Good idea on the access panel, I did consider something like that near the start of the process. If the idea I have for non-invasive installation doesn't pan out I may revisit something along those lines.

 

[cowger]

My Battery Tender charges the battery just fine, using the positive terminal under the hood, and I ground it off of a bolt head on the thermostat housing.

Agreed, mine stays nicely topped up just tapped into the 12V outlet in the console... But this panel is great for battery access, as many have noted!

 

[thompsonracing]

I replaced the screws with dzus fasteners when I bought my car 4 years ago. Easy to do. There was a thread about this a few years ago. I think I have about $20 into it. You have to drill out the existing holes in the panel, very slightly, and drill and rivet in the springs into the tub. Took about an hour. I used the factory panel as weight savings is minimal. I run the cord of my battery tender out the back, easily accessable and cannot see from the outside. I'll find pictures.

 

[SSGNRDZ_28]

I saw your thread some time ago and agree you can just use quick release fasteners with the stock panel. You are happy with that; others may not be because drilling / riveting is required (as can be seen from the above comments). To me riveting was a big turnoff which is why I went the threaded route.

From my perspective this is just another product to offer to the Viper community. It isn’t the end-all-be-all or only option. There are always 100s of ways to skin a cat. But this will be a professionally designed and built, non-invasive package for those who want to purchase it. It is something I wanted to redesign because I didn’t like the OEM version. I think the Viper deserves better than the stamped steel panel, etc. even if it lives under the carpet.

The OEM wheels, brakes, or the engine all work well, fine, etc. as provided by Dodge but many choose to upgrade because they want to change the looks, improve the performance, reduce the weight, or for many other reasons. This part isn’t quite as glamorous but is in line with that mindset.