Rear End Clunk

[heatandair]

A few weeks ago i slammed second gear and herd a loud clunk in the rear. After that i checked the u joints and found a bad one connected to the stub axel. After i replaced it i still herd the clunk, but only in first gear and, or reverse when a good amount of torque is applied. The clunk is definetlly coming from the rear. A few weeks later i snapped the same u joint in a day to day drive. This time we noticed the half shaft was twisted. After an uphill battle with dodge they would not warranty the shaft or the u joint. DLM sent me a half shaft and u joint for free (Thanks again Doug) and i installed it today. With all new u joints and a new half shaft i still have a bad clunk when power is applied. I was thinking bad spider gears because then only spin when tires are moving unequally (Under high torque, wheels spinning). I haven't pulled the rear apart yet because i want to narrow the serch down some more. Has anyone had similar problems or advise? Unitrax installed 3.55 6 months ago.

 

[FRANK RT/10]

Well I had a clunck in the rear of my 94 rt/10 and it was the rear. A tooth came of one of the gears and that is what caused it. They said it was most likely a weakspot in the metal when the gar was made.

 

[SapphireGTS]

my 2001 does it. Same rear end as my truck. it does it.

 

[GR8_ASP]

Seem to remember something about the fit between some of the rear drive components (hub, knuckle, etc.). That during a torque reversal it would slip ever so little and make the clunking sound. I seem to remember a TSB on the subject.

 

[Chuck B 98 GTS]

If everything else looks good it's probably a broken gear, a tooth may be broken off. You have to remove the entire rear end to inspect it. It takes a while and two people. You have to remove the rear exhaust assembly to get to the rear.

Cheers,
Chuck

 

[heatandair]

can it cause any damage if it is a bad tooth? Should it be fixed asap? Could slamming gears hurt it more? The clunk is not in the same spot when in gear. it only clunks when enough torque is applied to make the wheels spin.

 

[Bugeater]

Interesting....I too had that "clunk". It scared the **** outta me since I too was hitting the gears and RPM's pretty good. It was loud.

Interestingly enough we both have 3:55's. My halfshafts and driveshaft look OK too. Lends more towards the bad/broken gear theory.

 

[SnakeAv8r]

I read a warrentee bill from my cars previous owner and the complaint was a loud clunck from the rear end under hard accelleration. He inspected and found that the diff mounting bolts were loose. He tightened them and solved it. I have not heard the noise since i have owned the car but thought you might be interested. good luck.

 

[SoCal Rebell]

I read a warrentee bill from my cars previous owner and the complaint was a loud clunck from the rear end under hard accelleration. He inspected and found that the diff mounting bolts were loose. He tightened them and solved it. I have not heard the noise since i have owned the car but thought you might be interested. good luck.

Yup, same thing happened to me, the mounting bolts were loose.

 

[SMCBUILDERSINC]

Heatandair:
I think your horn fluid might be low or maybe you left your sky hooks under the rear, hahaha

I told you to buy a black Viper, they are built better then those dang yellow ones and their faster, hahaha

 

[Bugeater]

Do diff mounting bolts go loose on Black cars too?
(I hope you know I'm kidding)

 

[95Viper]

What torque would you apply to these bolts?

 

[Vip-RT10]

I had similar problem and it was loose bolts holding the differential torque bar below. Tighten those really good. I did and clunk went away.

 

[heatandair]

thanks for the tips. i will keep everyone posted

 

[Roland L-Ocala FL]

It's probably the bolts for the rear end and the ladder bar. There was a recall notice for this on the Gen 1 cars. Mine keeps getting out of spec every once in a while, I go back to the daeler, he re-torques the bolts, and ta da, the klunk goes away.

 

[Jack B]

A couple of thoughts - a noise from a broken tooth on the ring/pinion would be there all the time, however, if there is damage in the limited slip portion, there is a possibility of an intermittent noise under torque

 

[Roland L-Ocala FL]

Tomcat,
If you have a transferrable warranty, then all you did with the older ones was to pay for the transfer fee, and now it was like you were the original owner. For the newer warranties, ther is no fee if I remember. But the entire car is covered, including the drive train. Nothing changes because it is a transfer, it is like you ae now the original owner.