safireviper
Enthusiast
My 2002 ACR has a noticable rubbing type sound from the rear as I do slow turns while releasing the clutch from a stop. Anybody else have this?
Rear End Rubbing Noise
- Thread starter safireviper
- Start date
I suspect its just an E-brake adjustment.
Try this......set the e-brake to the first or second click, just where it starts to brake.
Then do your rub-provoking manuevers. If the sound is now changed or gone, its simply a rear brake pad dragging ever so slightly. It will go away when it wears a bit. If you have a hand-held pyrometer, check the rear rotor temps after a drive. It will reveal the possible dragger..........the hotter one.
Those who always use the E-brake can provoke this. (As well as warped rotors) Try to use the E-brake for essential needs only: parking on hills, idling when away, and in emergencies!
Try to break the habit of yanking the brake every time you shut off the car. {Wow, 2 proper uses of break-brake in the same sentence!} But DO remember to yank it several times (the E-brake lever) before track events! This helps rotate that piston a few mm closer to the rotor and can actually help rear bias ever so slightly.
Try this......set the e-brake to the first or second click, just where it starts to brake.
Then do your rub-provoking manuevers. If the sound is now changed or gone, its simply a rear brake pad dragging ever so slightly. It will go away when it wears a bit. If you have a hand-held pyrometer, check the rear rotor temps after a drive. It will reveal the possible dragger..........the hotter one.
Those who always use the E-brake can provoke this. (As well as warped rotors) Try to use the E-brake for essential needs only: parking on hills, idling when away, and in emergencies!
Try to break the habit of yanking the brake every time you shut off the car. {Wow, 2 proper uses of break-brake in the same sentence!} But DO remember to yank it several times (the E-brake lever) before track events! This helps rotate that piston a few mm closer to the rotor and can actually help rear bias ever so slightly.
dancojax
Enthusiast
Both of Nancy's last cars (2000; 2001)R/T 10's did the same thing. The 2000 immediately. Our dealer in Jacksonville replaced the differential assembly on both cars - no more rubbing sound. Maybe they would have quit after a while, but she didn't want to wait.
Worth a check.
Worth a check.
Motor City Mad Man
Enthusiast
Got rear end rubbing noise you say? Try dumping some baby powder down the back inside of your shorts, that always seems to help me. Sorry, it was just one of those days and I couldn't resist.
Jeff Torrey
Enthusiast
Hey Jon- Warped Rotors? Isn't that a Corvette problem?
So you say I should yank it several times before track events? Ok, if you say so (superstitious)!
So you say I should yank it several times before track events? Ok, if you say so (superstitious)!
toddt
Enthusiast
Don't use E-brake when parking? <shudder>
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by toddt:
Don't use E-brake when parking? <shudder> <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Parking on a hill? Tire to curb. Maybe E-brake. Depends on hill.
Parking in your garage? No E-brake.
Parking on a flat, protected area? NO E-brake.
Trailering? E-brake cold! Always park in 1st or reverse.
E-brakes are for emergencies.Your rotors and pads will thank you.
I have put 95000 miles on 3 Vipers I own, and used my E-brake maybe 10 times (guess).... except when trailering.
Don't use E-brake when parking? <shudder> <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Parking on a hill? Tire to curb. Maybe E-brake. Depends on hill.
Parking in your garage? No E-brake.
Parking on a flat, protected area? NO E-brake.
Trailering? E-brake cold! Always park in 1st or reverse.
E-brakes are for emergencies.Your rotors and pads will thank you.
I have put 95000 miles on 3 Vipers I own, and used my E-brake maybe 10 times (guess).... except when trailering.
Henry Cone
Enthusiast
Tony, trailering the cars is one of the few times that we use our e-brake. We tie them down with the e-brake on, then release it with them tied down to make sure that nothing is in a bind, and then reset it. We don't leave the cars in gear in the trailer as we believe that this is bad on the transmission / engine if the car moves at all.
I also yank on the e-brake a few times just before going out on the track to make sure that the rear pads are adjusted as close as possible to the rear rotors. This helps give slightly better braking in the rear. However we make sure that we never use the brake if the rear rotors are hot.
Getting back to the original subject of this thread - another possibility is not enough friction modifier in the differential. Might be worth adding some to see if it made any difference....
I also yank on the e-brake a few times just before going out on the track to make sure that the rear pads are adjusted as close as possible to the rear rotors. This helps give slightly better braking in the rear. However we make sure that we never use the brake if the rear rotors are hot.
Getting back to the original subject of this thread - another possibility is not enough friction modifier in the differential. Might be worth adding some to see if it made any difference....
joe117
Enthusiast
Why would a car in gear have any meaningful wear on the transmission from rocking back and forth a few inches while tied down? The forces applied in this situation seem quite small in comparison to the power the drive train is designed to handle. I can see that one might want to keep an engine from turning backwards if one had a chain tensioner for an overhead cam. Some of those shouldn't be turned backwards. Perhaps small movement of the engine bearings, cam, and rings, with no oil pressure, could cause wear. What's the answer?
