Rear Pads R&R
- Thread starter Grisoman
- Start date
Used needle nose pliers...
white out
Enthusiast
When pushing pistons back; I usually start with a flat head screwdriver between the rotor & old pad, pull the pad, then fully compress with my hands.
Nick
Nick
TowDawg
Enthusiast
Not sure on the RT, but on the SRT, you don't need any special tool for the regular brake pads. Just knock out the two pins and retaining piece and replace the pads. Once the wheels are off, I can literally change the pads in about 2 mins per wheel.
You do need a tool (I used a set of snap-ring pliers) to rotate the e-brake piston back in the caliper because it's mechanical and not hydraulic. I just did my e-brake pads last night and they are a pain the ass in comparison to the regular pads. You have to take to caliper off the rotor in order to rotate the piston back in for the e-brake pads.
You do need a tool (I used a set of snap-ring pliers) to rotate the e-brake piston back in the caliper because it's mechanical and not hydraulic. I just did my e-brake pads last night and they are a pain the ass in comparison to the regular pads. You have to take to caliper off the rotor in order to rotate the piston back in for the e-brake pads.
That must be what the manual is referring to. So the main pads on the rear R&R just like the fronts? That's good news.
Thanks.
I would suggest a couple of things: on Gen I and non-ABS Gen II rear calipers, needle nose pliers are a fair alternative to the small, simple spanner tool shown in the Service Manual...but be careful not to slip and tear dust boots. In my opinion, this is not such a great alternative on Gen II ABS rears as the caliper must be dismounted, hand held, and the two notches are not all that easy to engage. The "special tool" for the ABS Gen II rear caliper is more complex, takes a little dexterity...but does work well without risk of bodily harm.
If one is committed to a "workaround" and attempts the needle nose plier route, try not to make a hole in your hand...as it does require applying some force to an unstable platform.
If one is committed to a "workaround" and attempts the needle nose plier route, try not to make a hole in your hand...as it does require applying some force to an unstable platform.
TowDawg
Enthusiast
So on Gen I and II's you have take the caliper off to compress the piston back in when changing brake pads? It's very easy, with no special tools or removal of the caliper on Gen III's. That is, except for the e-brake pads.
SoCal Rebell
Enthusiast
That's pretty much what I do, I'm not sure about the stock brakes I've had the Stoptech 4 wheel big brake package and I didn't have to even remove the caliper to change out the pads, very handy when you're at the track. I'd put a screwdriver in between the pad and rotor and work it open.
Do yourself a favor with a non-abs car (my Viper was a 2000) put on a set of Brakeman 3 pads, they are a good progressive pad that makes it harder to lock the wheels up and flat spot the tires.
99 R/T 10
Enthusiast
If you are still looking for pads, I have a full set of EBC greens, front and rear for ya:
http://forums.viperclub.org/new-products-supplier-specials/642715-brake-pad-sale.html
$140 shipped.
http://forums.viperclub.org/new-products-supplier-specials/642715-brake-pad-sale.html
$140 shipped.
Thanks for the heads-up. As I'm planning the replacement right now (the roadster only has 7700 street miles clocked on her), haven't decided on EBCs green/red, Hawks or ?. Have used Hawks on previous cars and really liked them. Always looking forward to the expert advice from the seasoned members here; I love my Viper.
