Ok so I installed these today.
Here's what I did. You will need a 1 5/16 open ended wrench to loosen the old tie rods.
Here's what I ordered:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-INNER-TIE-ROD-END-SET-FORD-DODGE-VIPER-1992-2002/231072021585?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
A rubber boot was needed to cover and protect the joint, and keep the grease in, so I improvised with a bicycle tire inner tube and a couple of zip ties.
You must be registered for see images attach
I cut a section of the inner tube. I stretched one end over the wide socket section and left the other end on the shaft. There were grooves in the shaft that was a good place to fit the zip ties.
You must be registered for see images attach
Now all thats left is to install them.
I removed the end from the wheel hub, then loosened the socket end. The shaft came out with the tie rod end attached. I then measured the length to make sure the new one goes in the same.
Here is the old one vs the new ones I made.
You must be registered for see images attach
Here's what it looks like with the shaft removed. It simply screws off, and you screw the new one on the shaft that bolts to the body.
You must be registered for see images attach
Once everything is bolted up:
You must be registered for see images attach
Summary:
I bought front tie rod ends on Rock Auto. They range in price, but mine were Spicer and were about $10 each. $20
I bought the Steering tie rod assembly for $50 (link above)
Replacement bicycle inner tube 27" road bike. $10
All in $80 + my time to install.
As posted in previous posts, cheapest I found new ones was $200 each Mopar Part # 4763159AC.
I saved about $320+ on these.
You will prob need an alignment as this is the toe adjustment for the rear, unless you are confident that your measuring got the shaft the exact same length as before.
After test driving it made a world of difference. My 96 GTS had what seemed a lot of driveline lash on acceleration, breaking, and deceleration and the rear would "unsettle" and shift a little when you let off the gas. It also had some axle popping which I assumed was the axle splines or the universal joints. That is now gone! I could physically move the rear passenger tire when the rear was jacked up, so I knew either the toe link, or the joint on the shaft was shot. It moved about 1/8th of an inch. The Car drives better that it ever has since I bought it last year. I can't believe the difference.
I wanted to share this with you guys to offer an alternative to the $400 price of the toe link shaft, and offer that virtually the same parts that were used on the front steering rack, were used in the rear toe assembly.
Let me know if you guys have any questions.
Cheers.
Lane