LETHAL GTS
Viper Owner
The majority Gen II's will use 7.5 pushrods with the Harland sharpe RR's.
Recommendation on rockers
- Thread starter sbkim
- Start date
sbkim
Enthusiast
Tracy - thanks! I've confirmed that with Roe Racing. Hopefully, my GTS isn't one of those 5% with different length
Simms
Enthusiast
Just use an adjustable pushrod to get the correct length.
LETHAL GTS
Viper Owner
That works too
The answer straight from the company that makes the rockers:
2002_Viper_GTS_ACR
Enthusiast
The Nutswill back off, if you dont torque them to the 20(?) lbs feet. It happen 2 me on 2 of mine. Easy fix, just use the torque wrench, listen to it click, and then forget it. I thought I would get it "good enough" with a hand wrench, and It almost bit me in the ass. Thank god no damage to my motor.
FYI guys, here is another thing.... you will have to remove your oil baffles in the valve covers, OR pay some good $$ to have a machine shop mill down the pedistals, so you can move the baffle higher up. (which is what I did, and it stops the oil from going into your intake, which hard braking will do if you remove the oil baffles. Because the rockers will hit the oil baffle in its current config, if you use T&D's and probably all the other after market rockers.
Jon
FYI guys, here is another thing.... you will have to remove your oil baffles in the valve covers, OR pay some good $$ to have a machine shop mill down the pedistals, so you can move the baffle higher up. (which is what I did, and it stops the oil from going into your intake, which hard braking will do if you remove the oil baffles. Because the rockers will hit the oil baffle in its current config, if you use T&D's and probably all the other after market rockers.
Jon
Russ M
Enthusiast
Jon,
Would you happen to remember how much you had to get milled off the valve covers for the baffles?
Thanks.
Would you happen to remember how much you had to get milled off the valve covers for the baffles?
Thanks.
2002_Viper_GTS_ACR
Enthusiast
I want to say 1/4 inch, but there is a post on here roughly a year ago, where I stole the niffty little tid bit from, so do a search ;-)
Jon
carguy07
Viper Owner
Roe sells them for $599.95 can't be too much to ship them.
http://www.roeracing.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=10&idproduct=173#details
Russ M
Enthusiast
What I want to know is why no one puts in higher than 1.7 rocker ratios.
Asked on another thread but no replies, seems that more lift means better unless their is piston to valve clearance issues.
Asked on another thread but no replies, seems that more lift means better unless their is piston to valve clearance issues.
PhoenixGTS
Enthusiast
There is a low budget answer - at least on my car. Flame me if you want, but my car came with the Crower rockers. When I took the valve covers off the first time, sure enough, I notice little crescent-shaped marks where the rockers (the nuts I believe rather than the arm) had slightly touched the baffle. The baffled is very soft metal so what I did was sit it on a piece of soft wood and hit each crescent three times with a punch about 1/4" in diameter. This created a depression right where the rocker were touching, maybe 1/16" to an 1/8" deep. I have had the covers off twice since then and the rockers no longer touch. Free mod - baffles still in place.
What worries me is the little screws that hold the baffles in place. I have never had a problem, but I'm guessing if one of those came out and started floating around it could cause some sort of trouble.
HOdbleFman
Enthusiast
The baffle pedestals need to be milled down as far as you can go without getting into the vent tube on the end of the valve cover. The screws that hold the baffle in place are just self taping sheet metal screws and should stay in place, but for a little extra assurance put a drop of medium strength loktite on them when you re-install them. I'm still telling you from experience, buy the T&D's or Jesel. Don't go cheap! That extra $600 bucks you saved can go towards a new gasket set when you go to put the engine back together if you buy the Harlands.
Russ M
Enthusiast
I am NOT even considering anything that isnt shaft mount, have seen too many people pay a very high price for being cheap.
Harlands/Crowers are not shaft mounted, they both look like good units but they will come loose and fail.
Harlands/Crowers are not shaft mounted, they both look like good units but they will come loose and fail.
Simms
Enthusiast
My Jesels clear with no problems.
sbkim
Enthusiast
what's this with milling down the oil baffle?! Is this required for most rocker installs?? So much for straight bolt on...
LETHAL GTS
Viper Owner
Do you have facts or is this just speculation?
HOdbleFman
Enthusiast
I've got about 10 pieces of proof in a ziploc at home. The adjusters in the back of the rocker crumbled apart and I recovered them from the oil pan. If you compare the pushrod adjuster cup in the Harlands to the ones in T&D's, and I would imagine Jesel, there is a lot less material around the edge of the cup on the Harlands. The radius cut into the cup goes all the way to the edge of the adjuster leaving it very thin it that area. This makes it prone to breaking when the pushrod exerts a slight side load on it. If that isn't enough, then send an email to Jeff Morey asking him about the Harlands or any non-shaft type rocker. He is an engineer for Chrysler and has filmed the rockers on a spintron machine at high rpm's. The trunion pin that connects the intake and exhaust rocker with the Harlands is a weak point. He said at high rpm, the rocker assembly has so much movement in it, that the pin is only a few thousandths of an inch from completely coming out of the rockers. This would be bad news, since a)the pin has to go somewhere and b)without the pin, the rocker arms can rotate on the mounting stud and work their way off of the valve stem.
I'm not trying to cause problems, but actually trying to help someone avoid making a costly mistake. I know there are plenty of people running the Harlands with no problems for many miles, but I'm saying there is the possibility of failure. Buying T&D's or Jesel, eliminates most of the concern with this type of vavletrain failure.
LETHAL GTS
Viper Owner
Thanks for the info!
About the dowel. On GenI and GenII the dowels that were provided in the past were 1 inch. They should be 1.125" to 1.250" in length.
For the GenII 1.00 to 1.125 are long enough. With the correct dowel inserted it would be "impossible" for a rocker to turn.
The ones provided in the past were 1.00" for either GenI or GenII.
This was a discovery I made while installing rockers on a GenI and GenII, and Harland Sharpe responded with new dowels. They are probably going to settle on one dowel for both. A 1.125"
I am not familiar with problems in the adjustment cup.
Alan
For the GenII 1.00 to 1.125 are long enough. With the correct dowel inserted it would be "impossible" for a rocker to turn.
The ones provided in the past were 1.00" for either GenI or GenII.
This was a discovery I made while installing rockers on a GenI and GenII, and Harland Sharpe responded with new dowels. They are probably going to settle on one dowel for both. A 1.125"
I am not familiar with problems in the adjustment cup.
Alan
LETHAL GTS
Viper Owner
Regardless, any roller rockers would be an improvement over the stockers correct?
SYNFULL
Enthusiast
I've got about 10 pieces of proof in a ziploc at home. The adjusters in the back of the rocker crumbled apart and I recovered them from the oil pan. If you compare the pushrod adjuster cup in the Harlands to the ones in T&D's, and I would imagine Jesel, there is a lot less material around the edge of the cup on the Harlands. The radius cut into the cup goes all the way to the edge of the adjuster leaving it very thin it that area. This makes it prone to breaking when the pushrod exerts a slight side load on it. If that isn't enough, then send an email to Jeff Morey asking him about the Harlands or any non-shaft type rocker. He is an engineer for Chrysler and has filmed the rockers on a spintron machine at high rpm's. The trunion pin that connects the intake and exhaust rocker with the Harlands is a weak point. He said at high rpm, the rocker assembly has so much movement in it, that the pin is only a few thousandths of an inch from completely coming out of the rockers. This would be bad news, since a)the pin has to go somewhere and b)without the pin, the rocker arms can rotate on the mounting stud and work their way off of the valve stem.
I'm not trying to cause problems, but actually trying to help someone avoid making a costly mistake. I know there are plenty of people running the Harlands with no problems for many miles, but I'm saying there is the possibility of failure. Buying T&D's or Jesel, eliminates most of the concern with this type of vavletrain failure.
[/QUOTE]
Were you tracking the car or was this from street use?
***
I'm not trying to cause problems, but actually trying to help someone avoid making a costly mistake. I know there are plenty of people running the Harlands with no problems for many miles, but I'm saying there is the possibility of failure. Buying T&D's or Jesel, eliminates most of the concern with this type of vavletrain failure.
[/QUOTE]
Were you tracking the car or was this from street use?
***
SYNFULL
Enthusiast
Why do I see Jesel's advertised for 600 for most other cars but for a viper they are 1650?? That is some steep viper tax.
Gary
Gary
