removing viper side sill

danviper1

Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 9, 2011
Posts
17
Reaction score
0
OK. My exhaust is in the mail. Looking forward to the upgrade. I want to make sure I take the side sill off correct so don't hurt anything. See if the following is correct
I have allready loosened the two bolts under the sill above the fins (right behind the front wheel well, yeah that was fun) as some have said, it looks like these just need to be very loose, the bolt does not
need to be taken completely off because the sill in this area is cut out, ie designed to be pulled off. Now. I take all the screws in the door, the ones that are underneath toward the rear, and the 3 that are in the front wheel well. Then remove all the 10mm bolts on the underneath of the car on this portion of the sill. Once all screws and bolts are removed (again accept for the two that are above the fin in that hard to get to area) then with two people gently remove the sill by slowly pulling it outward. Is this the basic jist?? Am I missing anything?? any hangups that I have not commented on. My plan to is to take it over to a garage (muffler place I trust) and once I have the sills off in his garage remove the old exhaust and replace with new and then form fit the tips until they are where they need to be in opening of sill (off centered forward) Thanks in advance for your thoughts
 

AZTVR

Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 28, 2005
Posts
3,043
Reaction score
7
Location
Chandler AZ
I didn't recognize that procedure at all, so, no help from me. I'm guessing that you must be talking about a Gen III ?
 

Slithr

Enthusiast
Joined
Jun 15, 2010
Posts
1,165
Reaction score
0
Location
Friendswood Texas
Sounds like you have the jist of it. It's a good idea to put masking tape on the underside of your door and the body above the sill on the sides, pretty much put tape on any other painted surface around the sill. When putting sill on/off, a little insurance is better than a aw $hit moment.

Try to avoid using standard 'exhaust' u-clamps and use 3" SS band clamps. If your tubes don't have any relief cuts (less than 3", covered by band clamps) the relief cuts will allow for a better seal. Once all is set and you're happy with tip placement, you might consider a couple tack welds to hold things in place (optional).
 

sssammm

Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 9, 2010
Posts
421
Reaction score
0
Location
United Kingdom
Dont forget there is one screw right down in the door hinge, you might miss it, , you need the door open fully, a long handle screwdriver helps
 

Konza800

Viper Owner
Joined
Apr 9, 2009
Posts
149
Reaction score
0
Location
Cleveland, Ohio
+1 on tack welding the band clamps. Also, dont forget to use locktight on the sill screws when you reinstall them or one might end up in your tire a few days later.
 

Latest posts

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
153,644
Posts
1,685,209
Members
18,220
Latest member
ROIII
Top