I'd search some of the spark plug threads here on the forum. One thing about aluminum heads-- you can strip out the spark plug holes if you go crazy tightening the plugs. I've actually witnessed someone do this to one spark plug hole on a (von-Viper) motor, and it wasn't pretty. Torque spec is only 14 ft-lbs for the spark plugs.
Also, the stainless steel plug shields take a certain knack to click in and out of place. Sometimes a twisting motion helps. I grabbed the shield with a long-nose ViseGrips locking pliers, but YMMV. Get plenty of light down there to see what is going on clearly. Working in a dim light leads to clumsy mistakes. The rear-most cylinder on each side was kind of a *****, but other than that they were not too bad to get to. Not the easiest car to change plugs on, but certainly not even close to being the worst, either. You will of course end up pulling the plug wires out of their guide looms, so remembering or photographing how they were routed from the factory is useful. They did a nice job of routing the wires around the valve covers at the factory, and each wire is built to a length which eliminates all the sag and slop you would see on older cars. Not sure I agree with their design for the coils being placed under the intake manifold, but it certainly keeps thing looking tidy.