Resistant Check Engine Light

[Parisianviper]

Hello,

Some time ago, a check engine light came on my 2001 RT/10.
I bought Roe's poor mans Creader, and a P0432 code was identified.
Following the wizard advice, I checked for exaust leaks and sure enough, one cat clamp was loose on the drivers side. I fixed the problem, but I'd like to get rid of the light.
I thought the code reader was suppose to clear the code after 3 cycles, I let it run for 10 minutes, it doesn't work. I then unhooked the black battery cable near the PCM box, then the red cable for ten minutes, It's still there.

Should I unplug the 3 harnesses from the PCM, or is there an easier way?

Maybe lighting a few candles and chanting will do the trick, what do you think?

 

[dave6666]

Drive in reverse for 15 minutes. Exit vehicle. Walk back to starting location. Flag down taxi and fare to nearest pub. Drink for 2 hours. Acquire bicycle or equivalent and return to Viper. If the car is still there, the check engine light will still come on. But you won't care any more. You'll be mad, drunk and tired, and really happy to see your car regardless of code P0432.

 

[Madduc]

Do a Tator "Field Dump". Disconnect the positive(red) at the battery, then ground the CABLE end to the closest metal of the frame. Re-hook the cable back to the battery. Then before starting, turn the ignition key to the run position(Do not start) and apply full throttle and hold for a brief second and release. Now start the car. This will recalibrate the Throttle Position Sensor after the field dump. She'll run better also!!
Or if that fails, do has Dave recommends.

 

[AviP]

Just get a rich man's code reader that can erase codes. Bon chance.

 

[Parisianviper]

Do a Tator "Field Dump". Disconnect the positive(red) at the battery, then ground the CABLE end to the closest metal of the frame. Re-hook the cable back to the battery. Then before starting, turn the ignition key to the run position(Do not start) and apply full throttle and hold for a brief second and release. Now start the car. This will recalibrate the Throttle Position Sensor after the field dump. She'll run better also!!
Or if that fails, do has Dave recommends.

Thanks Madduc, in order to do so, I have to gain access to the battery, meaning I have to remove the left rear wheel and so forth... Anything simpler?

 

[Parisianviper]

Just get a rich man's code reader that can erase codes. Bon chance.

I will eventually get a hand held flash programmer, but until then...
It's "Bonne chance" by the way

 

[Madduc]

Nope, sorry. Wish there was an easier path to the battery. Next time I have mine open plan on attaching some Battery Tender leads.

 

[Catwood]

I bought a code reader from Kragen or some place years ago for $39. It reads and clears the codes. Like the rear O2 sensor one that comes on every other friggen day.

 

[Parisianviper]

This is the one I bought. Good to read codes, not so good to erase them.

http://www.roeracing.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=23&idproduct=76

 

[dave6666]

This is the one I bought. Good to read codes, not so good to erase them.

http://www.roeracing.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=23&idproduct=76

Well that's great. It's the one that I bought. Have not even opened the package yet, just wanted to have one handy.

 

[1TONY1]

That reader and unhooking the battery would clear the code. But what if the o2 sensor is shorted or the pcm has an issue......it sounds like whatever is setting the code is always there.
IL light, P0432 code bank 2 main cat eff below threshold ...
If that is the code definition (quick Google search) and it is not going off, I would first put o2 sims in the rear or try a 96 year pcm. Wouldn't that be correct, the only way it would know a cat was bad would be by using the o2 sensor. I doubt a bad cat would keep the code light on but a bad wire, bad sensor or bad pcm might.

Hello,

Some time ago, a check engine light came on my 2001 RT/10.
I bought Roe's poor mans Creader, and a P0432 code was identified.
Following the wizard advice, I checked for exaust leaks and sure enough, one cat clamp was loose on the drivers side. I fixed the problem, but I'd like to get rid of the light.
I thought the code reader was suppose to clear the code after 3 cycles, I let it run for 10 minutes, it doesn't work. I then unhooked the black battery cable near the PCM box, then the red cable for ten minutes, It's still there.

Should I unplug the 3 harnesses from the PCM, or is there an easier way?

Maybe lighting a few candles and chanting will do the trick, what do you think?

 

[Parisianviper]

I forgot to mention I have Roe Hiflow cats.
Bank 2 mean Passenger side , right?
Even if the problem is still there, I would expect the engine light to go dark at least a few seconds and on the start position without the engine running. The light came on as I was cruising on the Highway in 6th...

 

[Sean Roe]

The little code reader does erase them as well. You cannot clear codes if the engine is running.
Have the key in the "on" position before you plug the reader in.
If it doesn't clear the code after the cycle, send it in for me to check or replace.
You can also clear all PCM codes and adaptives by unplugging the three plugs at the PCM, under the cover below the fuse box in the engine compartment. There are four 5/16" or 8mm head hex screws at the top of the cover and two philips head screws at the bottom.
Regards,
Sean

 

[Parisianviper]

The little code reader does erase them as well. You cannot clear codes if the engine is running.
Have the key in the "on" position before you plug the reader in.

Sean

I know I was doing something wrong... Thanks a lot Sean, I 'll try again tonight.

 

[Parisianviper]

My sincere apologies to Sean Roe, your code reader/ Eraser works flawlessly.
The manual says you should start the engine before you plug in the reader, which is good to read the code but not to erase them. With the engine off, with the key in start position, it works.

Great product for the price.
Dave6666 , you're safe.

 

[AJT]

Go to an auto parts store, ask them to read it & tell him you reclamped the exhaust leak. Tell him you want to know if that fiked it. Ask him to clear it & usually they will at no charge.
Then you can see if it comes back. Autozone had one for something like $100. I have used it mine many times since then, well worth 100 or so dollars.

.02

 

[dave6666]

My sincere apologies to Sean Roe, your code reader/ Eraser works flawlessly.
The manual says you should start the engine before you plug in the reader, which is good to read the code but not to erase them. With the engine off, with the key in start position, it works.

Great product for the price.
Dave6666 , you're safe.

Men... We just can't read instructions can we?!?

We need Juli to help us with that. Bet she reads instructions.

 

[Parisianviper]

Men... We just can't read instructions can we?!?

We need Juli to help us with that. Bet she reads instructions.

No actually, the way it's described in the manual doesn't work...

 

[dave6666]

No actually, the way it's described in the manual doesn't work...

Oh! Better print this thread...