SapphireGTS
Enthusiast
I'm about to start putting some miles on my car and wonder who all has done the same and has the Roe supercharger. Any issues? Disuss.
-Keith
-Keith
Roe blower owners.
- Thread starter SapphireGTS
- Start date
1TONY1
Enthusiast
11,000 + miles. I will drive it anywhere !!
Tony,
are you driving your viper down to the nats?
I talked with dave and he said you wanted to meet up.
are you driving your viper down to the nats?
I talked with dave and he said you wanted to meet up.
1TONY1
Enthusiast
Only if my truck breaks
I told Dave about when we were leaving and that you guys were welcome to tag along.
fuelman
VCA Venom Member
I have more than 6000 miles on mine, I agree with Tony I would and could drive it anywhere. Go for it 
Hi Keith,
One thing's for sure. You're not going to break the blower. We had one ingest a throttle body screw and it still ran with the screw stuck in the rotor. That was the only blower to ever need repair yet. We've never had any real mechanical issues, mainly electrical issues in production run #1 (we're staring run #4 now). As long as you have the good injector connectors and improved VEC2, you should be good to go for a long time.
Regards and happy motoring.,
Sean
One thing's for sure. You're not going to break the blower. We had one ingest a throttle body screw and it still ran with the screw stuck in the rotor. That was the only blower to ever need repair yet. We've never had any real mechanical issues, mainly electrical issues in production run #1 (we're staring run #4 now). As long as you have the good injector connectors and improved VEC2, you should be good to go for a long time.
Regards and happy motoring.,
Sean
1TONY1
Enthusiast
Are you saying it came off after "pinning" or before. Five times ? (You do mean pinning and not keying ??? right ?)
I thought I would ask the roe supercharger guys a question.
Did you gas mileage drop alot or stay the same?
I herd from some 5.0 mustang guys with low bost 6lbs that they got the same or even better just crusing
Is this the same with the viper "just crusing" like a nice highway run without getting into the throttle?
Did you gas mileage drop alot or stay the same?
I herd from some 5.0 mustang guys with low bost 6lbs that they got the same or even better just crusing
Is this the same with the viper "just crusing" like a nice highway run without getting into the throttle?
Hi CJ,
I'm looking for the same clarification as Tony. I know Scott built your motor and has keyed cranks in the process. Do you know if it was keyed when built, or was it pinned with the tool kit after being built? If it spun after being keyed, it must not have had a deep / strong enough key (or there was some sort of crank to hub clearance issue / bad hub). The tool kit we have uses two pins, both 1/4' in diameter. The Paxton kit uses two 1/8" pins.
Regards,
Sean
PS, I will post pics and updates on the G1 and G3 kits soon. We hired more help so we could get them finished.
SapphireGTS
Enthusiast
Thanks for jumping in on this Sean. That is my only concern as well. Scott has my car (doing Ross dished pistons and some tuning). Last time I heard, CJs car was a blown, stroker car with nitrous. Would that have anything to do with it?
Scott is keying mine - when keying is done is the pin kit also installed? Why arent we just welding it?
After I installed the blower, I had about 50 miles on my car with the blower installed. When Scott received my car, the balancer had just about come off and damaged my crank (which had to be replaced). Is there a way to reverse thread it like most cars?
Did you take your blower off CJ?
Thanks for jumping in everyone.
Scott is keying mine - when keying is done is the pin kit also installed? Why arent we just welding it?
After I installed the blower, I had about 50 miles on my car with the blower installed. When Scott received my car, the balancer had just about come off and damaged my crank (which had to be replaced). Is there a way to reverse thread it like most cars?
Did you take your blower off CJ?
Thanks for jumping in everyone.
the stroker i had wasnt the motor spinning the balencers, it was the stock one with heads/cam motor that was doing it. i took the blower off and traded it to scott for another motor, which i sold a few weeks ago. so now im back with the heads and cam motor, im not sure if heads cam motor is cursed or what the deal is. we replaced the crank and i have been a bit nervous about putting another blower on, even with the balencer welded on. i may get brave in the coming weeks
1TONY1
Enthusiast
My car went for 9000 miles before the pins (torqued only,no locktight). If the locktight and torque are done, the pins are just a necessary precaution. The only reason it should have a problem if done correctly is the machining on the crank snout or balancer is a mismatch (unlikely, but possible)Ifkeyed you will not need the pins. Welding the balancer to the crank should not be done....that is like super glueing the injector connectors (sorry Chris 
) except it will be weaker after the weld.
Sapphire, Was your balancer bolt lock tighted and then correctly torqued ? 50 miles isn't much.
) except it will be weaker after the weld.Sapphire, Was your balancer bolt lock tighted and then correctly torqued ? 50 miles isn't much.
1TONY1
Enthusiast
P.S. I know of a BRAND NEW crank that can be bought at a real good deal compared to dealer cost.
SapphireGTS
Enthusiast
After I put the blower on, I didnt do anything with the balancer. I tried to get the bolt off but it would not turn, even with a breakerbar. I decided that if it was that hard to come off then I can do a couple of test drives. All seemed ok. I then decided to have some forged internals put in. On arrival Scott had told me that the balancer had spun and did damage to the crank/housing.
What is causing them to spin so much? Is it the extra drag on the balancer? Or was CJs freak of nature car just being a pain?
EDIT: Scott has more than taken care of me through this engine build and is really covering his bases on my car. I am just trying to educate myself on what to look for and potential reasons for this problem.
What is causing them to spin so much? Is it the extra drag on the balancer? Or was CJs freak of nature car just being a pain?
EDIT: Scott has more than taken care of me through this engine build and is really covering his bases on my car. I am just trying to educate myself on what to look for and potential reasons for this problem.
S
SUN RA KAT
Guest
About the only thing I have with my Roe S/C Viper is that the gas mileage has gone way down (almost 1/2 tank in 80 miles!), but it's probably the way I was driving it for the two and a half hours of no snow and clean roads...
Sean's latest programming of my VEC2 computer cards has enhanced my power, yet the back of my Viper has less soot on it than ever before.
I wouldn't drive my Viper anywhere without my Roe Supercharger and I drive it everywhere (weather and road conditions permitting).
Sean's latest programming of my VEC2 computer cards has enhanced my power, yet the back of my Viper has less soot on it than ever before.
I wouldn't drive my Viper anywhere without my Roe Supercharger and I drive it everywhere (weather and road conditions permitting).
SapphireGTS
Enthusiast
Thats cool Kenny. You are running with the 02 stock internals right??
The best I can tell, there is absolutely, positively no telling if a balancer hub is fit up or torqued right from the factory. Our '96 shop GTS went a year of R&D in 2001 without even checking it. To this day, it has still only been checked for torque twice and has never been pinned. It has literally hundreds of pulls on it (dyno and road). On the other hand, some people have them spin off of stock cars without blowers. There is just no telling.
We have a '97 in the shop that came in today that has 14,000 miles and only has tubes, filters and cat-back. We baseline dyno tested it and began removing parts for the SC install. The crank hub bolt was maybe at 100 ft/lbs (stock is 250) and there was no threadlock on it. Most have a blue threadlocker on them. The best thing to do is pin it right from the start and hope that it never spun before. I would consider doing this on any Viper getting ready to go out of warranty.
Regarding CJ's, I don't know enough about it to say, but something sounds weird about it. He has the record by a long shot. The only good news, the hub is cast and therfore wears before the crank does, if it spins. The hubs are somewhere around $100 now.
Otherwise, our friends at Dodge should use left hand threads on the crank hub bolts since they don't lock them with keyways anymore....
Regards,
Sean
SapphireGTS
Enthusiast
Thanks Sean. You always have good input. Im sure Scott will get it right. Ill just check it from time to time when I get the car back from the poston swap job he is doing.
You think there is a way to tap it out and reverse thread it and use a new bolt? (Theres a new project for you. Just what you need. . . More projects .)
You think there is a way to tap it out and reverse thread it and use a new bolt? (Theres a new project for you. Just what you need. . . More projects
.)
99 R/T 10
Enthusiast
OK, I am probably showing my ignorance here, but how do you know if the balancer has spun? Will it completely destroy the engine if it does or will there be a noticeable vibration? Aren't the cranks keyed from the factory?
you can hear it come off depending on fast you are going, the car will start sputering i have driven mine a few miles with no balencer, you have to push start the car to crank it, also the balencer sometimes destroys the oil seal on the crank. spits out alot of nasty black soot.
