Roe Roe Roe Your Ride

[EllowViper]

Finished my ROE install tonight and took it out for a shakedown sprint. Suffice it to say, I now have a completely different Viper (Thanks to Fuelman/Larry Macedo for the system ). For those of you on the fence regarding forced induction...let me say it simply brings the beast alive. Now my install is pretty tame and I am running the basic ROE 6D 93 octane card. I have not had a dyno tune yet:
ROE w/5 lb pulley w/VEC-II
Belanger headers, no cats, Corsa
New Poly engine/trans mounts
Dave's P/S pulley/bracket
ROE hoses
Fluidyne radiator w/170 t-stat
Husrt shifter/stock clutch/flywheel (I have a Findanza in the box)
Eibach springs
Stock rear. etc, etc.
Pic aren't needed since we've seen enough of these installs; but I did paint the tubes Race Yellow with the polished blower. Looks pretty sweet for a DIY project. I also painted my side sills while I was at it. Oh yea, if you need a great source for Viper base/clear coat paint, try out TCPGlobal-AutoBodyDepot on EBAY. The Viper Race Yellow matched PERFECTLY and is 1/4 the cost of my local paint thief. So I now have to wait for the weather and an opportunity to put the ride through its new paces. It sure is LOUD when I get on it and pulls like a freight train. Scares the $&!! out of me..again!!! So far, no CELs with my PCM, but I haven't really gotten on it to say the least...more to follow.

 

[FE 065]

 

[IEATVETS]

Did you upgrade your pistons to forged or leave them stock? I will be putting a blower on mine but don't know if I want to put forged pistons in. I want another Paxton but may go with a Roe so I don't have to install new pistons. Feels great when you mash the gas doesn't it? My blown Gen1 was a monster!! I sure do miss the extra 200 horse's.

 

[Viperless]

FEDEX delivered two 60+ lbs boxes from Roe Racing yesterday.

 

[JUCD VPR]

I'm JEALOUS! grrrr

 

[treesnake]

Be careful with those pistons and the boost. My '01 lasted 800 miles and the rings gave out (two weeks ago) after 800 miles on blower. 22,000 on car. Doesn't make any dif. bet. Roe or paxton...you need forged pistons (at least) to make any real power!

 

[Purdue_Boiler_Viper]

Be careful with those pistons and the boost. My '01 lasted 800 miles and the rings gave out (two weeks ago) after 800 miles on blower. 22,000 on car. Doesn't make any dif. bet. Roe or paxton...you need forged pistons (at least) to make any real power!

What boost were you running?

 

[EllowViper]

I've got 22K on the car at the time of install; but don't know how that will relate good or other to the longevity. Still a Creampuff, but Fuelman was pulling 10.08's on DRs with W/M and Nitrous on his '01 Creampuff...so the cast can take a lot of cylinder pressure WITH THE RIGHT TUNE.

 

[Steve 00RT/10]

I've got 22K on the car at the time of install; but don't know how that will relate good or other to the longevity. Still a Creampuff, but Fuelman was pulling 10.08's on DRs with W/M and Nitrous on his '01 Creampuff...so the cast can take a lot of cylinder pressure WITH THE RIGHT TUNE.

53,500 miles at install on the 00. 15,000 miles on the blower since last May. 5 pound / No W/M. Tuned to 11.6 or so in 3rd gear with Sean's stock spark curve for 93 octane. Track events included. Absolutely no problems to date. Same set up on 01 car....almost 8,000 miles on the SC. No problems.

One factor to be completely aware of is that one card most definitely does not fit all the temp ranges your car may see. We basically run from snow in the spring to snow in the fall. With the VEC 2, I had 3 cards tuned from 35F to 95F. I am still dialing my upgraded VEC 2 IAT parameters in......which I think will work pretty well when done.

A car tuned on a dyno, at say, 75-80 degress F (probably higher IAT) will not have enough fuel in the tune for riding in 45-50 F weather.

Steve

 

[treesnake]

I agree that boost is the key here. My 01 had an 8# pulley installed with some timing taken out. This "trick" was to get more horsepower under the torque curve. Worked for about 400 miles and car started getting "weaker". Started some oil blowby. Installed vac pump off a camaro. Didn't help. Made a huge mess in the engine compartment. Not sure why tuner opted for this. I even special ordered the 5# pulley and it is still in box. I am hearing more and more stories of creampuffs getting all kinds of miles with a blower. The key is not to be too aggressive. Now I am forced to build an engine, in the middle of driving season, that will do what I need.

 

[Simms]

Congrats on you new found power!

 

[treesnake]

Are you using water/****?

 

[Mccarlin]

Be VERY careful using the Roe base 93 octane tuned card. I used that tune untill i got my car tuned on the dyno. To my surprise the AF's were in the high 13's under WOT (which is dangerously high) on the base Roe card.

I highly suggest getting it tuned before you hammer it, i'd hate to see a motor blow up.

 

[mike & juli]

ellowViper--Congrats on all your upgrades!~! Would love to know what your dyno results are...are you planning on dyno-ing, and then final-tuning??? ~juli

 

[Steve 00RT/10]

Be VERY careful using the Roe base 93 octane tuned card. I used that tune untill i got my car tuned on the dyno. To my surprise the AF's were in the high 13's under WOT (which is dangerously high) on the base Roe card.

I highly suggest getting it tuned before you hammer it, i'd hate to see a motor blow up.

I would be curious to see how many 'stock' 6D 93 octane Roe cards were lean......or rich.....right out of the box. Mine was extremely rich (mid 9s to mid 10s) at WOT. For a cast piston 5 pound car, with no water/****....it would seem the reward for tampering with the spark hardly worth the risk. That being said, for AFR adjustments, self tuning with a WBO is probably the most accurate way to go. Real life road situations at varying temperatures. Personally, I wouldn't be without a WBO meter to get a snapshot of where you are all the time at WOT.

Again, I think a dyno tune on a Roe is really only for the temp the runs were done at. It won't hurt if it gets hotter as the car will run rich, but it could definitely be too lean when the temps get colder........especially if you're trying to eke every last pony out of it.

Myself, I don't care what the HP is just for numbers sake. I'm well tuned to 11.6 / 11.7 with the stock spark map. If I've maybe left 5-10 HP on the table---no big deal. I know it's runs strong enough to smoke a of couple sport bikes ,that egged me on , from 60-125 or so. Works for me!

If you are concerned about the 'out of the box' AFR, and have a WB installed............floor it in the higher gears first to see where you're at. I have found that the higher the gear, the richer the mixture initially. 5th should really show rich. 4th is a good gear to start with to see where you're at. I think 3rd is the best gear to actually tune to.........2K-5.5K RPM

Steve

 

[V10SpeedLuvr]

Just dont make plans for Labor Day

 

[EllowViper]

Agree with the dyno tune need. I plan on motoring over to M2 in Orlando next month for a dyno tune and a couple of temp adjusted cards. Larry and I discussed this when he pulled the system off Fuelman's car. I think with what ROE sent me when they went through the VEC and upgraded it and what Fuelman left behind, I have 5 cards to mess with. Larry did a baseline last year with just my Corsa cat-back and Smooth tubes. The dyno sheet is in my gallery...

 

[EllowViper]

OK, SO I had to post a pic....

 

[99 R/T 10]

Looks incomplete, are the valve covers going to get the same yellow treatment?

 

[EllowViper]

Maybe, maybe not. Its nice to have choices. I've had a few folks take a look and like the red/yellow/polished thing. I actually had everything set to paint the valve covers, but nearing the end of the project, I just wanted to get everything back together and get back on the road. I can do the valve covers very easily; so if I have a rainy day and nothing to do.....or if i go to 1.7 RR's...