Roe S/C oil change

[BOTTLEFED]

I'm installing the s/c this weekend and decided that I can't tell how much oil is in it or its condition so I want to drain it and refill with new oil

I did a search but found nothing on changing the oil in the Roe s/c, so can someone tell me how to drain the oil and how much goes back in

I don't have the little dipstick for it, so I can't check it and since it is a used unit, I'm not sure how many miles are on the oil

TIA,
Tim

 

[Bobpantax]

When I had my Roe, I took the old oil out with a turkey baster. As for the dip stick, call Sean Roe. I am sure that he will provide you with one at a very reasonable cost. You really need it to check that you are filling to the proper level. Also, it is not necessary to change the supercharger oil every time you change the oil in the car - just check the level.

From Sean's web site:


What kind of maintenance does the Supercharger add?Next to none. The oil in the unit does not come from the engine oiling system, which gets contaminated from blowby and the combustion process. Therefore, the compressor oil stays cleaner and in better condition longer. We suggest the case oil level be checked at each engine oil change. The oil color will be the first indication that a change is due, which should be at approximately 50,000 miles.

 

[VIPER BAZ UK]

Castrol Syntec 5w 50...

 

[Steve 00RT/10]

The instructions say use a multi grade synthetic. The factory fill is Castrol 5W-50 Syntec as mentioned above. It comes filled with 140 cc of oil which is about 4.8 oz. If it looks clean, it need not be changed, but being new to you, it should probably be changed. Sean should be able to get you a dipstick BUT for a little heads up......here's how you would determine the level you're at ...or to refill. Here is also a way to easily tell the level as clean oil on the dipstick is damn near impossible for my old eyes to see.

Take 2 white twisties that come with garbage bags. Twist them together to make a longer one. Stick the twisty into the hole until it bottoms out (wouldn't have to bottom out as 3" from the top is what you're shooting for). Pinch the twisty with your fingers flush with the top of the case and pull it out. Now, either measure for your 3", or like I just did.....line up the dipstick where your fingers are holding the twisty. The oil soaks into the twisty exactly at it's level--discoloring it. With the dipstick lined up with the twisty, you can see exactly where your level falls between the hash nmarks. This method shows me at the midpoint of the hash points....hardly worth adding any oil. (posted 6/26/07)

The upper hash mark is 3" from the top of the SC hole. The lower hash mark is 3.25" from the top. Sean says to set the refill level to the lower mark. The SC will find it's own level if overfilled (will vent out). You'll have to excuse my scribing attempt below on the measurements. A very safe way would be to fill right to the upper hash mark at 3" below flush with the top of the SC case.

I'm going to change my oil this coming week at 2 years / 21,000 miles. It's still very clean, but is now down to the add mark (1st time) I'm going to try a turkey injector to **** out and refill. It's like a good size syringe.........just substitute some small tubing for the needle the injector comes with.

Steve

 

[DAMN YANKEE]

A little more advice on this one.

First...lets be clear here, this is a used unit. That has some important steps that we need to include.

1. If a prior owner has left the oil in during the sales transaction...LOOK AT IT. Inspect the color of the oil and you will know ALOT about:

a. How much was actually IN THE BLOWER.
b. How the color looks of the old oil.
c. Have a discussion with the prior owner about BOTH if issues arise.

2. If the unit comes drained. STOP and consider refloating the debris. In other words you may want to flush the unit at least once to re-suspend the debris that can be trapped inside the unit. This is especially true if the unit has been used....abused....as in "no regular oil changes."

3. I use a measured syinge that hold ALL of the 140cc. I can draw that much out...look at the oil...send it in slowly...all of it. That same syringe can remove overfill or MOST of the old oil. MOST...not all and here is the rub. To get all the crap out one has to drain from a low point and let the unit run d-r-y.

4. Used Blower? Changing th oil? One needs to monitor the unit to see if the oil stays IN! Check the oil, if it needs alot of refills...not good.

5. Everything written here on the dip stick is absolutely correct. Especially that the dip stick is IMPOSSIBLE to see with fresh oil on it. What I did is to rough up the surface of the dip stick SLIGHTLY and paint it flat/texture BLACK. Use a bright light and read it everytime you change your oil.

REMEMBER - OUT comes the DIP STICK, do not drive with it in.

Also, the bronze filter plug and the end of the blower pulley shaft WILL blow some oil out. That is normal.

 

[GTSnake]

Sean, doesn't have any dipsticks. Call PSE superchargers and get it from them.

 

[BOTTLEFED]

thanks guys for the replies

I broke down and called Sean on his emergency #
The seller drained my oil prior to shipping but there was a small amount to drain. Sean said the color sounded normal for the mileage and there was no need to flush the old oil out. Steve pretty much summed up exactly what Sean said about the dipstick and oil type/amount.


gtsnake, I'll remember that when I decide to order one, thanks

 

[Red Snake]

Good info here.

I measured my oil level and it's 3.5 inches below the top of the fill hole. Looks like I need to add enough oil to get it up to 3".

 

[99 R/T 10]

Dang RS,
broght an old post back from the dead. I am curious why Damnn Yankee got demoteed?

 

[Red Snake]

Dang RS,
broght an old post back for the dead. I am curious why Damnn Yankee got demoteed?

Good question.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

A little education...

in the blower application the color change is apparently due to oxidation - the oil gets hot, this promotes a chemical reaction which leads to darkening, thickening and eventually deposits. OK.

In an engine, with the same oil, the conclusion can be different - the contaminants from PCV, combustion, heat, etc, are bringing things into the sump and there are dispersants in the oil to keep these suspended so they are removed when you change the oil. Therefore a "good" oil may actually turn darker sooner, not because it is deteriorating (example above) but because it is cleaning up the inside of the engine. Be mindful of this when thinking your engine oil looks clean or dirty.

Bell rang, so school is out.

 

[Red Snake]

Good info Tom. Thanks.

FWIW, my supercharger oil still looks great. Car has 30K miles and S/C was already on it when I bought it. So I don't know how long it has been running with this oil. But it still looks nice and clear/clean.


I picked up some Castrol Sentec 5W-50 last night. I'll get her topped off to the proper level today.

 

[BOTTLEFED]

I am curious why Damnn Yankee got demoteed?

yeah, I've done some searches lately and noticed on his old posts that he has been "unregistered" for awhile now

not sure what happened
probably just a disagreement with a mod or something

guess I could disappear just for noticing

 

[99 R/T 10]

yeah, I've done some searches lately and noticed on his old posts that he has been "unregistered" for awhile now

not sure what happened
probably just a disagreement with a mod or something

guess I could disappear just for noticing

You've been marked for termination........................................... bu-bye.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

IS that the same as looking for signatures? I know if a signature changes, it appears as the changed version even in historic posts...

 

[Martin]

Just my $0.02 on dealing with these 2.2L twin-screw units on other cars (they're the same as the unit on the Viper as far as I know). Redline Racing 50w is the preferred oil to use - it doesn't leak as much as the Castrol 5w-50 oil and it doesn't have all the additives that are needed in an IC engine but are unnecessary in this application (you get slightly better friction reducing properties when you don't have all the additives in there). On the leaking note, when you put Castrol 5w-50 in these units, you need to check them more often than every oil change - I know of a few people who have had them seize up because of low oil level.

If you need a dipstick in a pinch, call the guys at Kenne-Bell. The 2.2L unit is the same one they use, and they can give you a dipstick.

To change the oil, if it's not yet installed, just pop the hex key plug on top and turn it upside-down. You could also pull one of the plugs on the lower corners of the unit and let the oil drain. When it is installed, I've used a turkey baster connected to a piece of clear tubing with notches at the bottom of the tubing. With the notches, you can push the tubing all the way down and not have to finesse it when the tubing ***** up against the bottom of the oil resevoir and stops the flow of oil. Hope that helps.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

Not to be picky, but we were in school and recess is over.

No such thing as "50W" grade.
If we want SAE 50, that is similar viscosity to SAE 90 gear oil.

I bring up the gear oil because I am curious what this oil is lubricating - spiral, hypoid, straight cut gears?

 

[BOTTLEFED]

IS that the same as looking for signatures? I know if a signature changes, it appears as the changed version even in historic posts...

yes, it is the same
all his old posts say guest as well
but I'm just saying it has been that way for a few months
I'm guessing he has been banned because even if you don't renew your VCA membership you are still a registered user

 

[Steve 00RT/10]

yes, it is the same
all his old posts say guest as well
but I'm just saying it has been that way for a few months
I'm guessing he has been banned because even if you don't renew your VCA membership you are still a registered user

I'm afraid he won't be back. I talked to him in April when he removed himself / was removed. .........and that's all I'm saying about it.

Steve

 

[BOTTLEFED]

that's too bad
he was a huge resource on this forum and helped me tremendously