RT/10 rear window really is glass.

[Clifton Viper]

I was doing my routine washing of the Viper this weekend. I was waiting for the second coat of Zaino to cure so I pulled out the rear window to wash off a few fingerprints and rain-x it. After polishing it, I put it away in its protective sleave and leaned it against the wall.

Turned my back for a minute and then everything goes slow motion. The window slowly starts to slide to the side, hits the garage window molding and falls to the garage floor with a sickening whump before I can react.

I go to pick it up and I am left with a vinyl sleeve that bends like a wet noodle. I look inside and my window is now in a million pieces -- like a windshield looks after a rollover.

I've been consumed with trying to find a replacement one since then.

Thanks to Chuck Tator, JonB and Paul Scharf, I've got some leads on some new glass (keep old hardware) but I am still looking at $450 to $600 to replace it (OEM cost is listed at $609).

If anyone has a used Gen 2 they want to part with, let me know. I've already checked the VCA classifieds and found a Gen 1 but it is incompatible with Gen 2.

The moral of the story is that the rear window is very fragile. Treat it like you would any tempered glass pane.

 

[CitySnake]

You could probably get a nice piece of plexy glass in there for half the price. Might want to consider it.

 

[Snake Bitten]

City's got the right idea...borrow a stocker...get one made of semi-dark plexiglass...with your hardware...

Let me know if you need to borrow mine as a template, I haven't used it in a couple of years...I'll take one in tinted plexiglass too...

Also, what is your insurance deductible...this sounds like an accident to me...

 

[dansauto]

yeah, I busted mine while my car was parked next to my frame machine. A clamp slipped while I was pulling the frame to a truck and swung around and went right thru my rear window. Paul Schraff hooked me up with a used one. (I think it was only $150!!)

 

[slaughterj]

Start up a business making these and charge Viper owners out the @ss - LOL!

 

[Clifton Viper]

I thought of the plexiglas angle too. I'm going to see if I can find a local shop that could do it.

I'm sure the plexiglas is good for at least 10HP in cold weather. LOL

 

[Vip-RT10]

Mine is defenately not glass, it is plexy from the factory. It is an early 93. It doesn't have the stamp on it like windshields do.

 

[Jeff Torrey]

The back window on my 92 is tempered glass.

 

[Clifton Viper]

You know, I thought the same thing -- there was no kind of ID stamp on it denoting tempered glass or security glass (not to say that yours is not plexi).

 

[jimandela]

bummer!
damn vipertax!
anyhow.. try vipermania... maybe they can hook you up.

 

[Vip-RT10]

I am willing to break mine to see...just kidding. The feel is not of glass and it scratches easily, A mystery to me...

 

[Mopar Steve]

Glass usually falls under comp on insurance policy. Most have no deductible on glass. Get a new OE part, then get it tinted if you like.

 

[joe117]

To test for glass. Touch your teeth to it. I know this sound's silly but you can tell glass from plastic this way.

Rather than Plexiglass I would use Lexan. Lexan is super strong, stops bullets. You can't break it.

Plexiglass can crack when you are sawing it.

I'm thinking that a glass shop could make you a glass replacement out of tempered glass. I think they would need a stock glass window to use as a template and I think the rubber would need to be removed for making the template.

The rubber was coming off my window. I used black RTV to re-glue it. Use lots of rubber bands to hold it while the RTV sets up.

 

[Clifton Viper]

Thanks for all the tips.

I have contacted a company that laser cuts plastics of various kinds including plexi, poly, lexan and so forth. They said they could do it relatively inexpensively but they need to see a drawing before they could quote.

I am going to use my broken one this weekend as a template (it is still in one piece, just shattered) and send it to the manufacturer on Monday and see what they recommend for material and what they can quote on the cost. They have already recommended against plexi because of the brittleness (good call Joe117).

Two VCA members have already indicated they would also be interested in a plastic replacement window. Let me know if anyone else is interested, I can easily increase the batch volume if/when I place the order. We'll have to order the hardware (locks, snaps & seal) from DC. Chuck Tator - help?

 

[Newport Viper]

The seal is the problem. You have to find out who made it in the first palce. I could use a new seal........

 

[slaughterj]

I'd be interested in one if it's cheap...

 

[Snake Bitten]

We'll have to order the hardware (locks, snaps & seal) from DC. Chuck Tator - help?

We could use the hardware from our "pre-grenaded" rear window...

I would just get the windows made up WITH THE WEATHER PROOFING INSTALLED, and ship them like that...Let people get their own hardware from Tator or use their existing...

I'll take mine in a dark smoke black!!!

 

[Vip-RT10]

I agree with Snake Bitten on the seal and hardware. I would be interested in a Lexan one as well. We could adapt the new window to fit other seals that are easily obtainable by the public. I am sure we could find what we need from this site...

http://www.trimlok.com/

Rubber edge trim

Hatch seal

The only catch is that they sell it in rolls of 250 feet. I think this would be a viable thing to do.

 

[red98GTS]

Pete the ex-glass guy here with some necessary clarification....if I may. IF a piece of auto glass breaks into "a million pieces", it means it is tempered. IF it stays together and cracks, no matter how many cracks throughout, it is "safety glass", or what is better known as laminated. ALL windshields are laminated now. There is no such thing as a tempered windshield. The window in the back of your car is called a "backglass", not the rear windshield. Regular glass can be cut to size and then tempered, but no glass shop around will have the ability to temper it. It has to be cut and sent out. I have done this before, but the thickness of the glass you use is critical for fit, so remember, if you're going to spend the money to do this, be sure the thickness of the glass is exactly the same as the one you want to replace before you spend the money. An easier solution is Lexan, as was mentioned. They even have a "mar-resistant" (MR) classification type of Lexan I believe is now called MR-5000, which is more scratch-resistant on one side than just the ordinary stuff. Obviously, put that side facing outwards. I have it in one of my cars and it's lasted for many years with care. Lexan is VERY strong. You won't break it. Again, be sure of the thickness you are using to be sure it will fit properly in any rubber, etc. ALWAYS check with your insurance company for glass coverage. I still recommend full glass coverage if you don't have it. One rock thrown up by a truck, etc. and you've more than paid for it already. Oh, one last thought. If you buy the Lexan and go to cut it to a pattern, you can use a sabre saw with a fine toothed blade and just go slowly....don't "push" the saw. Leave the protective paper ON the Lexan until you are ready to install it to protect it from any accidental scratches while cutting and handling. ONLY just before installing it, peel it off slowly. You can also scratch it while cutting it if there is anything on the part of the sabre saw that glides along while you're cutting it. Ask me how I know. Yes. To avoid even this happening, just for insurance, take some masking tape or duct tape or something and put it on the bottom of the sabre saw where it's going to touch the Lexan as you cut. You'll be fine. Then if the edges of the Lexan are rough after cutting, you can use some light sandpaper and just go over them to make a nice edge. Yes, you can use a file or whatever. Hope these ideas help you out. Pete the XGG and hot rodder

 

[Newport Viper]

Pete,
how can you find the OEM rubber??????

 

[ViperJoe]

There is no rubber p/n. The only way to get the rubber from DC is to buy the $600 back glass. That's why the "rubber" supplier links always show up in these "back glass" threads.
Now..... will SOMEONE finally, PLEASE get us a "specific" manufacture and specific p/n that WILL work in the replacement of the factory rubber piece? I'm nowhere near ready yet, but it seems many are in need of at least the rubber and / or a "glass" replacement.
Thanks {

 

[FE 065]

FYI Local plastic shop in Metro Detrot said 1/8" MR is $4 sq ft for clear, and $5 sq for smoke (or other tint colors). I was guessing on the thickness..