Securing Viper to Trailer?

[Wicked]

Did a search but couldn't find any tips. Any special places to hook to? Just purchased a trailer and am taking the car to the track tomorrow, just want to make sure I get her all hooked up ok.

Thanks!
Jason

 

[B767DRIVER]

There are slotted holes on the outside front and rear of the frame. I use 4 tie-downs and criss-cross them to prevent any lateral movement. Also I was told to leave the transmission in neutral with the parking brake set. This prevents any stress on the gears if any fore and aft movement of the car. I have trailered mine several thousand miles with no problems. Just be sure you have a really good set of ratchet type straps.

 

[Wicked]

I found two of the sloted ones in the back, I'll have to look for the front ones in the morning. Where are they in reference to the lower A arm? I should have looked when the car was on the lift.

Thanks very much for the response!

Jason

 

[Joseph Dell]

I was taught to do straight-straps in the front, but to cross the rear. agree with keep it in neutral but pull the e-brake as the LAST thing you do before you shut the door.

frame notch on front is behind (in terms of front-to-back of car) the a-arm. it is right on the frame rail.

can't miss it with a flashlight and no rain.

good luck!

JD

 

[B767DRIVER]

The holes are about 1 1/2" in front of the front lower A arm bolt.

 

[Janni]

Get the R hooks from someplace like www.awdirect.com so that you hook these into the frame slots instead of the straps themselves - as the hooks on the straps will tear the holes in the frame. Hook to the R hooks inserted into the frame holes - that's how the cars are transported by Reliable and "towing professionals".

We don't cross the straps front of back, but we're on an aluminum treadplate floor and Henry has been accused of stretching the frame on the cars 1/4" every time he ties it down..... But - it's never moved.

10s or thousands of towed miles with no issues.

 

[DavidSB]

2nd that. The frame slots are designed for R-hooks only and I don't X the straps because there isn't enough clearance with my particular trailer ..... but the car has never moved, even over some big overpass repair bumps at 70 MPH. AWdirect is a great resource. Set the P-brake after the straps are snug and leave the trans in neutral. I enjoy the track more knowing I can always get a damaged car home.

 

[Wicked]

couldn't find the hooks on that site.

Are these the ones your talking about though?

http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=107

Thanks,
Jason

 

[DavidSB]

That's an R-hook but I don't know about the "mini" size. Here's the link to AWDirect showing the strap/hook cluster choices. Just call them and they'll set you up (800-243-3194)
The part number for the strap/hook cluster I use is TYS28BL.

http://www.awdirect.com/finditem.cfm?itemid=20139

 

[Janni]

From AW Direct:
Item # CA-2 - $10.99 - R Hook with loop.

 

[Viper X]

I use the AW Direct R Hook with loop and ratcheting tie down straps too. Many thousands of miles towed. Car doesn't move.

 

[Fred(DrivingSchool)Kinder]

The T-Hook is the one I use. Pretty easy to use and available from any trailer store or of the net.

Cross the rear starps, front straps straight. Pull the e-brake and you are ready to go. After the fisrt 50-100 miles check straps and tighten as needed. Check on every gas up.

Check tire pressure I use 38psi

 

[Jeff Monheim]

I bought custom straps from MAC so the "r" hook was attached directly to the strap and the ratchet handel had a hook attached directly to it leaving the most room in front of the bumper for the least possiblity of paint damage! They came with a carry bag and velcro strap keepers when not in use. I cant remember the price not cheap but not out of line either!

 

[Mopar Boy]

Here is more strap info:

http://forums.viperclub.org/srt10-srt10-coupe-discussions/613494-viper-loading-trailer-how-too.html

Robert