costanZo
Enthusiast
Thanks for the heads up!
Shifter Knob and Short Throw Shifter...
- Thread starter costanZo
- Start date
Thanks for the heads up!
ViperNM
Enthusiast
Thanks Leslie!
Well, this is news to me.. I'm going to have to try and see if I can still get one from a vendor.
Good luck with that - really. If you find more more than one scoop 'em up. I'll take one. It's either that or the MGW shifter (with appropriate modifications to the ashtray box) for me.
Hurst shifter? YGMSM (yo gotta be sh**in' me). Flimsy mech and it doesn't fit the OEM or MGW knobs. ***!
AJ - so you're gonna cut off part of the end and re-thread the Hurst? How much shorter will it be then. Post pics when you get it done and give us your impressions.
What I would love to see are pictures of a brave soul who has done the MGW shifter installation in a Gen II. MGW never made a shifter for the Gen II - only Gen III/IV.
Using my own anectodal evidence, i.e., talking with many people (let's just say very well known in the Viper community and well respected) with more experience than me, here's a ranking of shifter's in order of build/quality:
1. MGW
2. SVS - have not been made for over 2 years
3. B&M - still in business but has discontinued supporting the T-56 trannys
4. Stock ... and bringing up the rear
5. Hurst
Another, perhaps novel approach, is modifying the stock shifter. I briefly talked with Mark J. from Woodhouse and he mentioned that they used to change out springs and a few other things that made the stock shifter even better. I would like to know if anyone has any experience with this. Given the availability (or not) of options, this may be worth looking into. Just an idea.
I remember a thread on the site a couple of years ago whereby it was discussed whether or not the MGW Shifter Mechanism for the GenIII could fit the GenII. I believe it was JonB who wrote that the modified shifter would work but that metal around the cigaretter lighter area would have to be trimmed in order to make this work. Maybe Mark can chime on on this? I'm not finding that particular thread but I will keep searching.
ViperNM
Enthusiast
It's the ashtray 'box' that has to be trimmed. When you take out the lighter, ashtray insert, shifter, radio/HVAC bezel and the console, you will notice that there is a box that the ashtray insert fits in. This piece is not riveted - rather it's part of the metal piece. So this piece has to be cut something like 1/4" to the left of the box (going toward the shifter) and I think another 1/4 the other way. Not sure if the 1/4 inch starts in the middle of the box or what. Evidently, its 5th, 6th and reverse that cause the problem.
So even if I knew exactly where the cuts needed to be made, what do you do about this new sized ashtray receptacle? Make a dummy cover? And how high from the bottom of the ashtray box does the shifter need?
It would be nice to see if anyone has done this and how they solved these problems it would create?
And maybe you wouldn't do this on a 'garage queen'?!
Jwolf, you are in my area.
I could have bugged you to put my hurst in haha!
My track buddy did my install last month and had to modify the ashtray to make it fit. He did a great job, can't even tell he had to change anything.
I could have bugged you to put my hurst in haha!
My track buddy did my install last month and had to modify the ashtray to make it fit. He did a great job, can't even tell he had to change anything.
AZTVR
Enthusiast
My Hurst shifter (model 3915055, 1992-2002 Viper) has the same thread size as my stock shifter. I think that I bought it maybe 5 or 6 years ago, so, you may be looking at something newer or older than mine? Also, I see nothing of lesser quality than a B&M shifter. ( I've owned both.) I do like the design of the B&M better and I believe that it fits better, whereas the Hurst was just at the corner of the ashtray, so, any variation in the placement of the ashtray, or trans location could make it interfere without a few good smacks to the ashtray housing. They obviously did not design the bend in the shaft where it needed to be to be an easy DIY install. ( FYI, Last I heard, B&M bought Hurst in 2007.)
ViperNM
Enthusiast
I'm referring to the newer Hurst shifters and evidently are incompatible with the OEM shifter knob.
I think Jwolf had a video on an install he did. It looked good but it lacked any verbal explanation of what he was doing. For instance, there was a portion where a couple of holes were drilled in the ashtray area with no explanation. At least it wasn't obvious to me.
AZTVR
Enthusiast
For someone following this thread in the future, here is a link to some written install instructions that I used. (It mentions drilling the holes to easily access the right side mounting bolts using a socket wrench.) Hurst Shifter install instructions
ViperNM
Enthusiast
I think so - if you're referring to one of the cue ball shifter knobs.
BTW good to see your Avatar back!
I just checked the threads in my MGW shift knob and they are 1/2"-20. That is what Viper Parts of America says the Hurst shifters are. Only problem is they also say the stock shift knob won't fit the shifter?? Now I totally confused. I'll just have to wait till my shifter arrives and see. Maybe the newer cars went metric? Mine's a 2002.
Edit---I just called Snake Oyl and they verified that the Hurst is 1/2"-20 thread. I guess these are selling like hotcakes now. When I ordered mine they had three. I was on the Hurst website a few minutes ago and it said "sold out".
Edit---I just called Snake Oyl and they verified that the Hurst is 1/2"-20 thread. I guess these are selling like hotcakes now. When I ordered mine they had three. I was on the Hurst website a few minutes ago and it said "sold out".
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costanZo
Enthusiast
I just called Chuck to buy a B&M... Currently awaiting his call back.
CEJ
Enthusiast
I heard that the Hurst is no longer being made. Can anyone confirm if this is true? Thanks.
Leslie, I thought you'd have your new green snake as your avatar?
Leslie, I thought you'd have your new green snake as your avatar?
Fatboy 18
Enthusiast
I contacted Hurst a few days ago. The threads on the Hurst shaft are 1/2 " - 20.
MGW cue ball shift knobs are Metric thread!
MGW cue ball shift knobs are Metric thread!
Fatboy 18
Enthusiast
So MGW are producing knobs with different thread sizes! I wonder if the later Gen cars oem shafts are metric? That might explain why they went the metric route?
Its a shame you cant order the Cue Balls in standard size thread.
Its a shame you cant order the Cue Balls in standard size thread.
AZTVR
Enthusiast
Just to tie this all back to the OEM shifter, I did go verify that my OEM shifter (2002 Gen2) has 1/2-20 threads. It makes me wonder if some Hurst shifters got out into the market built by mistake with the wrong threads. Being in manufacturing myself, I can imagine several ways how that could happen, especially on such a low volume product
ViperNM
Enthusiast
Now I'm really confused. The Hurst site even points out that their shifter will fit a variety of choices for shifter knobs (read their shifter knobs) but is not compatible with the OEM knob.
So some got out there that ARE compatible with the OEM knob is what it sounds like. Maybe there was a difference between the older Hurst shifters than what is being produced now.
AJ has one on order - hopefully he'll update us.
Absolutely! I'm just hoping that it won't be too tall. Being as it is designed to use the cue ball, it might be a little to tall with the MGW knob. I will put it in the car and check height before I actually install it. Looks like at the very worst, i might have to cut off the shaft and re thread it to get the shift knob close to where it is now. As soon as i getm it and see, I will post results. Art
jwolf
Enthusiast
I instructions say to drill the holes to get to the passenger side shifter plate bolts, the original shifter was held on with standard hex bolts and I was able to remove them without the holes, the new bolts (longer to accommodate the aluminum shifter plate were internal hex (Allen bolts) and I could not get to them and had to drill the hols for access. The front was no problem straight shot the rear the ashtray well was in the way to the hole was a little far back but you could still reach the bolt at an angle. (see photos in video.)
ViperNM
Enthusiast
Thanks Jay!
Fatboy 18
Enthusiast
Another way of installing the Hurst shifter bolts is from underneath the car. You have to remove the transmission cross member to lower the trans but it saves you drilling out the holes in the ashtray 
Hurst instructions just give you the easiest way to do it
Hurst instructions just give you the easiest way to do it Well my shifter arrived yesterday, and the MGW Gripper shift knob for the Gen 2 screws right on. All I have to do now is get it in the car to see if I need to shorten the shaft so the knob doesn't sit too high. I'll try to get that done this weekend.
ViperNM
Enthusiast
Thanks ... keep us posted.
Well, I got my new Hurst shifter installed today. The worst part was getting the rivets out of the bottom shift boot. What a pain! I ended up having to use a die grinder and carbide burr to grind them out. Took me about 2 hours all told. I cut off 2" of the new shifter so my MGW shift knob wouldn't sit so high. I then ground down the shaft from 5/8" to 1/2" so I could rethread it. I really like the way it shifts now. Here's some pics of what I did.
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Fatboy 18
Enthusiast
Great pics, So the first picture, I take it that is the standard shifter mechanism, is that also the OEM shaft, (not a shorter one)? Reason I ask is I also want my Knob to sit lower than it does at the moment, I also have an early MGW shifter knob on the car at the moment.
I was hoping the Hurst shifter shaft was going to be lower than my current set up but looking at your photos I think I will also be cutting the shaft down!
I guess I will have to remove my OEM shifter and compare side by side like you have done I was going to fit my shifter last weekend but seeing as I am waiting for my new Cue Ball shifter knob from MGW, I figured I would hold off until I get it
Question.....In your picture of the shortened Hurst shifter, there is a metal ring at the bottom of the new threaded shaft, Is that a threaded nut of some kind, it does not seem to have any Flats on it?
Thanks Mark.
I was hoping the Hurst shifter shaft was going to be lower than my current set up but looking at your photos I think I will also be cutting the shaft down!
I guess I will have to remove my OEM shifter and compare side by side like you have done
I was going to fit my shifter last weekend but seeing as I am waiting for my new Cue Ball shifter knob from MGW, I figured I would hold off until I get it Question.....In your picture of the shortened Hurst shifter, there is a metal ring at the bottom of the new threaded shaft, Is that a threaded nut of some kind, it does not seem to have any Flats on it?
Thanks Mark.
Yeah, it's the jam nut so to speak. It came with the shifter. It has two flats, I just didn't get them in the pic. That is the OEM shifter complete in the first pic. One of the reasons I changed it was because the rubber isolator was broken and the shift knob would spin and work loose. Took the car out today for a couple hour drive in traffic and boy is it a pleasure to shift now. Much better!!
