Should I RTV the oil pan gasket???

[trainville]

Yes, I searched and read all the posts on oil pans, gaskets, RTV'ing the bolts, etc. My '98 seemed to be seeping oil from several places around the pan, so I removed it tonight and worked on getting it all spotless before I reassemble. So I plan on applying RTV to the 4 corners as well as RTV to all of the bolts to avoid a possible seep.

I DO have the new gasket (aluminum, not plastic) and noticed the bolts were VERY tight when I removed them. I have a hunch someone overtorqued them to try to stop the seepage. I plan on torquing the bolts to 95-110 INCH pounds, but should I apply RTV to both sides of the gasket? I figured it couldn't hurt, but those of you who have seen the gasket in person know it's constructed to have it's own mating point, etc.

So let's hear it.........RTV both sides of the gasket a little bit?? Thanks in advance

 

[2000_Black_RT10]

Personally, I would not use a gasket and use this sealant that I suggested in this thread.

http://forums.viperclub.org/rt-10-gts-discussions/639835-sealer-gasket-question.html

Apply the sealant thinly to the block and the pan surfaces separately, after 10 minutes of applying, then assemble the pan to the block and tighten it up.

Regards,
Mike

 

[BOTTLEFED]

I didn't think many people had issues with leaking oil pans if they just replaced it with one of the new reusable ones like you bought.
I would just recommend replacing it like specified, with the RTV in the corners and on the bolts, and torque it down to spec, and it should be fine.
I also think using only gasket maker would work if needed, but its going to be a lot more messy when you need to take it off someday, while the replacement gasket is clean and reusable.

 

[Viper Wizard]

You only need RTV on four spots of the bottom of the block. It is not necessary to RTV the whole gasket! As you look up at the bottom of your block, were the timing cover meets the block, RTV those two seams [a beed of RTV] and were the plate holding the rear crank seal meets the back of the block, RTV those two seams. The new gasket will not seal those four seams!

 

[plumcrazy]

wizard is usually correct but on mine, i needed mostly where he said but mine had to have it all around (spread very thin).

for whatever reason

 

[1TONY1]

You only need RTV on four spots of the bottom of the block. It is not necessary to RTV the whole gasket! As you look up at the bottom of your block, were the timing cover meets the block, RTV those two seams [a beed of RTV] and were the plate holding the rear crank seal meets the back of the block, RTV those two seams. The new gasket will not seal those four seams!

RTV the whole gasket....what a pita if you have to pull it off at any intervals
Leave the bolts alone too....then if one or two are wet you can do them later. With the new gasket do as Chuck says and you should be fine including dry bolts. I actually need to get me a new aluminum gasket. I think the last one I put on mine was a "preowned" plastic

 

[97snk]

I would never use RTV as a gasket...The stock gasket is hard enough to take off with a razor blade, in fact my fingers still hurt from it...

 

[Garron]

I would really want to limit my RTV use. I have pulled long strings of old RTV out of an oil pick up in the past. If you really feel you must do something "extra" an anaerobic sealer (only drys with lack of oxygen, only in the sealing area) would be a better choice.

Personally, I would not use a gasket and use this sealant that I suggested in this thread.

http://forums.viperclub.org/rt-10-gts-discussions/639835-sealer-gasket-question.html

Apply the sealant thinly to the block and the pan surfaces separately, after 10 minutes of applying, then assemble the pan to the block and tighten it up.

Regards,
Mike

 

[Brentt]

Ditto limited us of rtv. I've also seen it clog-up oil pumps to the point of restricting oil flow. And never use it on the bottom of a bolt as it can bottom out and hydralic crack the hole.

 

[Phun70]

+1 on the wizards advice!!! Just use rtv where the seams on the block area come together. The gasket is designed to seal without any additional sealants.

 

[DeLViper]

Just replaced mine a few weeks ago with the aluminum which I've purchased from Chuck, since I still had the original paper type gasket. Followed Chuck's advise, RTV the four seams and torque as specififed and no more leaks. Also, make sure to adt RTV around the dipstick opening to prevent it from leaking.