Side Sill Fasteners Stripped - "Nutsert" Machine Screw Mod

[FrgMstr]

Has anyone undertaken this "Nutsert" modification on the Gen 3? About half the threads are stripped on the bottom fasteners on my 2005 side sills. Just put the side sills back on after adjusting the exhaust after a clamp broke, and some of these are getting really loose and have me worried as I am going on a 800 mile drive here in a couple weeks.

Looking at doing the modification and wanted to know if anyone had any SRT advice on this. Thanks!

Are you tired of the sill covers constantly coming loose and sheet metal screws falling out on all Vipers? The screws can easily get into the rear tires, since they drop in front of the rear wheels. If you have had the covers off once or twice, the self taping no. 8 sheet metal screws will eventually strip out the holes in the sheet metal and fall out.

The fix for this problem is to use no. 10-32 rivet nuts in the existing holes, then use stainless no. 10 button head machine screws to replace the sheet metal screws. You could also use a standard hex head 10-32 x 3/4 bolt, but the Allen head makes a nicer looking finish and will drive much easier with an Allen wrench. With this modification, you can take the sill covers off all you want and still not destroy the threads.

 

[C.Hermsen]

I'm just using panel push pins to hold mine on, they work great and are super cheap.

 

[britospeed]

I use 5/16" nutserts. Simple to install open the holes a bit with a drill and use the nutsert tool to install. 10min. job.

 

[GTS-R 001]

I use 5/16" nutserts. Simple to install open the holes a bit with a drill and use the nutsert tool to install. 10min. job.

This is the way to go, those screws that are there from the factory fall out a puncture your rear tires as well

 

[Garron]

The Chrysler replacement sill bolts are larger then the original bolts. I would try them first

 

[FrgMstr]

The Chrysler replacement sill bolts are larger then the original bolts. I would try them first

Chrysler wants like $7 per screw. Can't do that and feel any respect for myself later. I can bend over, but not that far.

I use 5/16" nutserts. Simple to install open the holes a bit with a drill and use the nutsert tool to install. 10min. job.

This is the way to go, those screws that are there from the factory fall out a puncture your rear tires as well

Sounds pretty simple. The full writeup linked above made it sound a bit more complicated than it was in my head. Thanks for the input guys.

 

[Garron]

Keep in mind the bolts "should be" Coated to prevent galvanic corrosion. Stock sill bolts and replacements are dacromet coated. The sills are aluminum and the body is steel. This would not be a issue if both parts were made from the same metal

Garrett

 

[FrgMstr]

Got a tool today here locally at Northern Tool but not the 5/16" specific above. Was a 1/4", but is $60 less, and I could not find the bigger locally. Going to give it a look tomorrow and see if it catches enough of the body material to get a solid hold. Given that it is not holding any weight and is being used more to simply locate the panel I think it will work. I will give it a dry run and check the crimp diameter before attaching these to double check dimensions.

The guys at Northern Tool called these "riv-nuts" or "threaded rivets." When I called these "nut-serts" they had no idea what I wanted.

$22 for the SureBonder 8150. Picked up the 1/4 hardware and grabbed some washers, just in case....

You must be registered for see images

 

[steve911]

I just did my "06 coupe. Used 1/4-20 rivnuts and 1/4-20 truss head screws. A truss head screw is larger in diameter than normal and has a shallow dome to the head. I used the phillips version.

With regards to corrosion, The zinc and or cad plating on most screws today is pretty neutral compared to plain uncoated steel. Dacromet is a propietary form of Zinc. Unfortunately that coating can easily be worn off just from installing and removing the fasteners.

 

[sssammm]

Hi Steve, which rivnuts did you use?, there are about 6 different types

 

[FrgMstr]

FWIW, I got to opening the tool last night to test fit some of the rivnuts, and the tool had been mis-packaged and was missing the 1/4" thread tool insert. So if you pick one of these up, double check the contents.

 

[steve911]

Hi Steve, which rivnuts did you use?, there are about 6 different types

I ordered all my fasteners from a large Company here in the States called Fastenall. I believe they are in the UK also.

Here are the part numbers of the screws:

29175- 1/4-20 x3/4" long zinc steel phillips truss head screw.
0170589- 1/4-20 x 3/4" long Stainless steel phillips truss head screw.
I ordered both as I hadn't decided on which one I wanted to use.

You must be registered for see images attach

Large head slightly domed.

The 1/4-20 rivnut I used is a large flanged ribbed steel rivnut. The "grip" length on this fastener is from .027" - .165"


Fastenal part number 110125617

You must be registered for see images attach

Here is a general picture of what they look like. The ribbed sides are important in order to help prevent spinning after installation. Another thing is that you do not tighten the screws super tight just snug them down. If you are concerned about them backing out, put a tiny drop of lock tight on the base of the screw threads for piece of mind. Putting locktite on the base of the threads (nearest the head) prevents the locktite from being distributed on all the threads and making the screw difficult to remove.

If you have any other questions just let me know I will be happy to help. As a side note, rivnuts in this type are available in metric sizes also...

Steve A.

 

[rw99]

Good info, thanks! Subscribing.

 

[FrgMstr]

Process went perfectly, perfect results. No longer have to worry about those damn side sill bottom screws.

I see no reason to use a bigger size for the Gen III as was spoken to earlier. 1/4-20 machine screw is a heavy duty screw to simply located the bottom of the sill panel.

 

[Simms]

Good thread.

 

[FrgMstr]

The SureBonder tool is sort of cheap though, in terms of price and build. I bent mine using it. It is still functional, but if you are looking to add the tool to your garage I would not suggest it. For $22 though, and I will not likely need it again, it makes a good throwaway. I did make sure mine were very snug though. Maybe a bit too thorough.


The other piece of the puzzle was getting a 25/64" bit to drill the holes for the size riv-nuts I used. 3/8" would not work. Could not easily find a 25/64 that was not in a full set, so I ate another $24 for a nice new bit set, which is fine as they will get used eventually.

 

[ViperTony]

Great thread. McMaster has the drill bit. http://www.mcmaster.com/#metalworking-drill-bits/=egtfx4

 

[Konza800]

I just added another item to my long list of winter viper projects!

 

[sssammm]

This is a good little tool, gets into tight spaces, check the vid

http://www.rivetnuttool.com/

 

[PaulP]

great info, worked great got rid of the factory sheet metal screws that are garbage