Pleasanton Asp
Enthusiast
2005 SRT-10 With only 8,000 miles, I'm the original owner
Here's the history of the issue:
My hypothesis is that the window is not mechanically binding, but rather has mistakenly trained itself to a new, lower set point. I’m unable to retrain the window to seek a new, lower end point using the familiar three times up&down procedure since the window will not move all the way down through its current, incorrect, "down" endpoint.
My question is this:
Is there a way to clear the memory of the current incorrect lower set point, and then retrain the window to know where the correct lower set point is using the three times up&down command sequence?
I want to avoid having to remove that inner panel and risk cracking the egg-shell trim strip, to access the regulator and apply direct 12V DC to see if the window will mechanically track all the way down without binding. I understand that if the window is indeed mechanically binding on the way down, it will trigger the hall effect sensor and stop dead, unwilling to even attempt to go further.
I appreciate your help. This forum has provided so much helpful guidance in the past, hoping there’s an easy way to reboot something, without pulling the door panel off.
Harvey
EDIT 11/26/2023
I opened the door up and found that the nut that holds the slotted UP " window end stop bumper" was very loose. Apparently the tech that installed my new regulator, never tightened it. It was backed way off, and the actual slotted plate had about .25" play in it, off of the regulator rail.
This allowed the plate to allow the end stop to get BELOW the window traveler and the nylon that shelf that moves with the window and normally hits the stop BELOW end-stop-bumper on the way up, was now getting hung up on it, on the way down. This allowed about 2" of downwards travel before the hall effects removed power from the regulator motor.
Of course when I found the loose nut, I simply wound it down tight, making sure the paint mark showing the set point was perfectly aligned. This of course did not fix it. The window needs to be down below the end stop, before you install the up travel end stop. Not sure why they would have loosened this during the new regulator installation.
By looking at the old regulator, I finally saw the possibility that it was getting snagged on the way down, and simply removed the plate with the end stop and the window worked perfectly, albeit going up way too high, compared to the normal, driver's side window.
I lowered the window, then reinstalled the plate, and the travel and the window, returned to service.
I can see the need to ensure that there is just enough UP travel to fully close the window, without it clipping the roof. The slotted plate allows for about 3/8" of adjustment. Both the old and the new regulator had a paint mark right below the nut, so that's what I'm using, and it seems to work fine.
Many thanks to all of you for your help. Hope this follow up helps someone else down the road.
I still have the old regulator (shown in the pictures below), will probably send it out for rebuilding, and keep it as a spare.
Harvey
Here's the history of the issue:
- PASSENGER side window began making a screeching noise, so ordered a new Mopar regulator, suspecting the original was cracked.
- Had a reputable automotive glass shop install it about a month ago, and confirmed the old one had a totally cracked through sheath as suspected.
- Also replaced inner body panel, as a previous dealer that diagnosed the issue years ago had hosed up the original one, by pulling the body screws through the plastic in several areas.
- Window performed perfectly with the new regulator until yesterday morning. Probably had all of 20 up/down cycles on it. It advanced up or down, without noise, glitches, rocking or binding.
- Window still politely drops 10mm when the door is opened, and then reseats when the door closes.
- Window only drops about 3” before coming to a stop.
- Doesn’t matter if I give it the full switch double detent command to go all the way down, or simply hold it at the first detent.
- When the window ceases motion, and I try to lower it further, there is absolutely no sign of “effort”. No sound, no motion. It behaves as if it thinks it’s fully retracted.
- If I “help” the window drop by applying gentle pressure during the initial downward motion, there is absolutely no change. Nothing to evidence that the window is mechanically binding.
- If I grip the glass and gently rock it to see if it might be loose or cocking, it’s totally solid. Nothing again to make me think it’s mechanically binding.
- I understand that there is a Hall Effect sensor that limits the travel at both the up and down limits of travel. Excellent thread found here: https://www.viperclub.org/vca/threads/driver-window.678454/
My hypothesis is that the window is not mechanically binding, but rather has mistakenly trained itself to a new, lower set point. I’m unable to retrain the window to seek a new, lower end point using the familiar three times up&down procedure since the window will not move all the way down through its current, incorrect, "down" endpoint.
My question is this:
Is there a way to clear the memory of the current incorrect lower set point, and then retrain the window to know where the correct lower set point is using the three times up&down command sequence?
I want to avoid having to remove that inner panel and risk cracking the egg-shell trim strip, to access the regulator and apply direct 12V DC to see if the window will mechanically track all the way down without binding. I understand that if the window is indeed mechanically binding on the way down, it will trigger the hall effect sensor and stop dead, unwilling to even attempt to go further.
I appreciate your help. This forum has provided so much helpful guidance in the past, hoping there’s an easy way to reboot something, without pulling the door panel off.
Harvey
EDIT 11/26/2023
I opened the door up and found that the nut that holds the slotted UP " window end stop bumper" was very loose. Apparently the tech that installed my new regulator, never tightened it. It was backed way off, and the actual slotted plate had about .25" play in it, off of the regulator rail.
This allowed the plate to allow the end stop to get BELOW the window traveler and the nylon that shelf that moves with the window and normally hits the stop BELOW end-stop-bumper on the way up, was now getting hung up on it, on the way down. This allowed about 2" of downwards travel before the hall effects removed power from the regulator motor.
Of course when I found the loose nut, I simply wound it down tight, making sure the paint mark showing the set point was perfectly aligned. This of course did not fix it. The window needs to be down below the end stop, before you install the up travel end stop. Not sure why they would have loosened this during the new regulator installation.
By looking at the old regulator, I finally saw the possibility that it was getting snagged on the way down, and simply removed the plate with the end stop and the window worked perfectly, albeit going up way too high, compared to the normal, driver's side window.
I lowered the window, then reinstalled the plate, and the travel and the window, returned to service.
I can see the need to ensure that there is just enough UP travel to fully close the window, without it clipping the roof. The slotted plate allows for about 3/8" of adjustment. Both the old and the new regulator had a paint mark right below the nut, so that's what I'm using, and it seems to work fine.
Many thanks to all of you for your help. Hope this follow up helps someone else down the road.
I still have the old regulator (shown in the pictures below), will probably send it out for rebuilding, and keep it as a spare.
Harvey
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