SRT Live Chat - June 13th at 6:00 PM EDT - be here!

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Viper rolls

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Do you have a recommendation on negative camber settings for my 05? On normal roads I feel it's too quick to follow the grooves and causes the need to correct. I don't want to have so much negative camber that it significantly increases tire wear.

Thanks - Yale
 

Bobpantax

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The run flats tend to lose about 4 to 5 pounds over a relatively short amount of mileage. They stabalize at about 24 pounds. Many do not check their tire pressure. Since I do, I have noticed this issue. My theory is that on cornering and over rougher roads, the stiff side walls do not totally adhere to the rims and there are micro leaks under certain conditions. Comment?

Sorry.....But its sounds like you have a slow leak that seals when warm

Not correct. All four tires do it uniformly and have all been checked thoroughly for leaks. Others have experienced the same problem. Put that thinking cap on again. The tire pressure sensors do not go off because all four do it uniformly and the sensors are keyed to differences among the tires.
 

SRT Engineers

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The lack of side sill insulation, that is the availability of it should be addressed. The factory insulation was burned out by 12,000 miles. The dealer would not cover it under my extended Max Care warranty which has now recently expired. The real issue is the fact that I can't buy the insulation from the dealer. You must replace the entire side sill for $5,000. This is a real problem that should be addressed. If nothing else it should be available by itself at a REASONABLE cost. Guys this needs to be available, it is simply a safety issue.

What do you mean by "burned off". The insulation gets discolored but won't burn.
 

SRT Engineers

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Question #6 from doctorbob: It seems a lot of Viper owners change the exhaust system in short order. Unless there are emissions issues (which I am sure is probably the answer)... if you can have color options, interior options... why not exhaust options? I am sure a number owners are looking at that NA 675 h.p. show car and seeing what can be easily exchanged on the car to push the horsepower.

the exhaust system has to balance back pressure, pass by noise and emissions. Two are federally mandated and generally are counter to the performance aspect......


Question #7 from viperbilliam: In what areas did the new Viper gain weight? Has the interior heat management been addressed?

Interior heat management has improved due to the elimination of the exhaust crossover pipe, a more effective cooling module, and the relocated hood louvers. The new hood louvers are in a lower pressure area of the hood, making them more effective at extracting hot underhood air.

For weight info, see answer to question #8.

Question #8 (okay, a couple) from rcl4668:

1) Has the 2008 Viper in fact gained weight? It seems that some component changes would result in weight loss: For example, elimination of crossover pipe in the exhaust system, switching from runflat Michelin Pilot Sport ZP tires to nonrunflat Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 tires.

2) If Viper has gained weight or is the same weight as the 2003-2006 models, what accounts for that? What other components have gotten heavier to offset the weight reductions above?

The 2008 Viper is nearly identical to the 2006 model in terms of weight. The '08 engine gained weight due to VVT and other modifications (and also gained 90 HP!). The '08 trans is slightly heavier due to 10% larger gears and other mod's for increased torque capacity. The '08 diff is also slightly heavier (4 pinion vs 2 pinion), again to handle the increased torque. These weight increases are offset by the elimination of the exhaust crossover pipe, the new Michelin PS2 non-run flat tires, and a slightly lighter cooling module (electric vs hydraulic fans).

The combined weight of the '08 dual disk clutch and flywheel is approximately the same as the 2006 combination, but inertia is reduced, pedal effort is reduced, and torque capacity is increased.

See answers above...
 

SRT Engineers

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Do you have a recommendation on negative camber settings for my 05? On normal roads I feel it's too quick to follow the grooves and causes the need to correct. I don't want to have so much negative camber that it significantly increases tire wear.

Thanks - Yale

Negative camber will make tramlining on rutted roads worse. The runflats make the car more sensitive to tramlining, but the wide tires is the biggest issue. Make sure your front camber is not too negative and toe is in spec.
 

SRT Engineers

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Thinking ahead- will the Viper Transmission bolt up to the new 392?
When will the SRT-8 Challenger be defined?:2tu:

Thanks again!

PBR

Sorry, we cannot comment on future products.

If you are looking for transmission options for the 392, check out the new Mopar Performance catalog. Bellhousing P5153602 will allow you bolt up a Tremec TKO manual.
 

2000_Black_RT10

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How would you compare DSSV (Multimatic / Dynamic Suspensions) vs. Koni dampers? Is there an option to upgrade to DSSV dampers? Are there any other damper manufacturers being utlized?

Best regards,
Mike
 

SRT Engineers

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How would you compare DSSV (Multimatic / Dynamic Suspensions) vs. Koni dampers? Is there an option to upgrade to DSSV dampers? Are there any other damper manufacturers being utlized?

There is no "upgrade" in the dampers. The new dampers have been tuned to enhance the performance of the new tires and horsepower upgrade
 

SRT Engineers

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The lack of side sill insulation, that is the availability of it should be addressed. The factory insulation was burned out by 12,000 miles. The dealer would not cover it under my extended Max Care warranty which has now recently expired. The real issue is the fact that I can't buy the insulation from the dealer. You must replace the entire side sill for $5,000. This is a real problem that should be addressed. If nothing else it should be available by itself at a REASONABLE cost. Guys this needs to be available, it is simply a safety issue.

Also, stuffing more insulation into the sill won't necessarily solve the problem. Essentially you still have an exhaust in a box, the temperature in the sills will still get as hot, it just won't get there as fast.

You may have another issue such as an exhaust leak - dumping hot exhaust into the sills raising the temp. even higher.

Check your exhaust for leaks espessially at the joints.
 

Janni

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Before you go - thanks for attending and sharing your insight with the members here - it's pretty cool.:beer::woot:


Oh - and hit up the board admins for a rockin' avatar.
 

Disturbed

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Is there a plan in place to keep the Viper the king of the hill when the ZO7 vette comes out? Maybe a ACR Package that will add more hp, lightweight parts and a race ready suspension.
 

SRT Engineers

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How would you compare DSSV (Multimatic / Dynamic Suspensions) vs. Koni dampers? Is there an option to upgrade to DSSV dampers? Are there any other damper manufacturers being utlized?

Best regards,
Mike


It is more about the valve code inside the damper, whether it is a mono tube or twin tube, and specific details about the design more than the brand. Almost all shock manufacturers make high end and low end dampers. We think the later SR ACR setup with the Dynamics is an improvement over the earlier, Koni setup. Note that the two use different spring rates. The Motons and KW setups are good stuff, too.
 

Bobpantax

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Just to clarify, the loss of tire pressure takes at least a couple of hundred miles. My SRT 8 Magnum does not do this. Neither does my Ford Lightning.
 

Camfab

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What do you mean by "burned off". The insulation gets discolored but won't burn.

It's not discolored, It has crystallized and crumbled away revealing the inner core. I believe that the intense heat of the cats and possible galvanic action have destroyed the material. The simple fact is that the O.D. of the cat is such that continuous contact with insulative material can't be avoided. I unhappily switched to high flow cats in order to minimize this problem. The high flow cats have a much smaller O.D. and length which helps to minimize the contact potential. I do question the high flow cats efficiency though, as the overall section width is reduced. At this point, I would just be happy if the dealer offered these parts. I'm a perfectionist, and this REALLY bugs me. Any solution would be greatly appreciated. Thank You, Armen
 

Bobpantax

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Right now the Z07 is all talk. Let's just wait and see what the real car is...... if it happens at all.

Does the above mean that you are concerned that Congress and the green lobby may soon intervene in the horsepower competition as they did once before?
 

Catwood

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I have to go pick up my son. Thanks for comments. If you want more input on a Track car email me at [email protected] or shoot a PM. When I heard that it might happen I shot a deposit to your biggest dealer just in case. A street car is fine for most folks and the comp coupe if great for the real racers. I want something to drive to work on occasion, be a bit more durable and adjustable on the track for my needs. My Gen 2 is great but I've also added alot of stuff and need to add a few more things. It's also very distracting trying to figure out was is the best to add vs what's going to have a bad effect. I think with what the factory has learned with the Comp Coupes could help with a "track version". Looking at another company that make a Turbo model and a GT3. I'd take the GT3 first even though it's even less power. It is a better track car. Hope that helps with the explaination.

Carl
 

Manatee

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Any thought of true paddle shifters? (Not the automanual system, but a real system ala Ferrari)

Thanks for answering all these questions :)
 
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