Stock Pad Replacement

[chiurw]

I searched on this topic but could not find the answer I was looking for. I have a Gen 3 that needs the rear pads replaced. I am still on the fence between stock pads or aftermarket pads and wanted to know if the stock pads from the dealer come with additional hardware (such as shims, clips, etc.) because the aftermarket ones do not. The delaer's parts guy told me that the diagrams in his parts system shows that there are some additional hardware but could not confirm it since he did not have the part in stock.

So for those of you the DIY, are there any shims, clips, etc. that need to be replaced when replacing the pads?

 

[Neil - UK]

i ordered a new set of stock from Chuck @ Tators Garage and had them flown over, they do come with new clips to replace the old rusty ones

order from one of the supporting vendors here, youll probably get a better deal to !

 

[Steve-Indy]

Last time I ordered OEM pads from the dealer, they also came with new pins...BUT, that's been some time ago.

 

[TowDawg]

I'm running Hawk HPC ceramics on my Gen III. I tried the EBC reds, but could never them to be quiet.
I just reused the pins and retainer that were on the car. It;s not like they are a wearable item, so there's no need to replace anything except the pads themselves.
The Gen III is by far the easiest brake job I have ever done! Knock out the two pins and the retainer comes out. Replace the pads, the retainer and the pins. I've done it quite a few times now between messing with the reds and then putting my new ones in, but I can probably do it in around 2 to 3 minutes per corner now.

 

[99 R/T 10]

I have a set of Hawk pads and EBC yellows for sale, check out my threa in the sponsor section:

http://forums.viperclub.org/new-products-supplier-specials/642715-brake-pad-sale.html

 

[Flexx91]

I'm using Hawk PC Ceramic pads with Eradispeed drilled and slotted rotors (street only). Low noise and no dust. Pad replacement is simple and you shouldn't need new pins or shims. Make sure you follow the bed-in procedure.

 

[ROCKET62]

How many miles is everyone getting out of the stock pads? Just got my Viper out of hibernation and I'm up to 17,000 miles, a handful of autocrosses, and it was starting to sound like new pads might be in order?

 

[Dom426h]

Rocket,
pads start around 6 or 7/16ths. I measure after every performance event and when im down to 3/16ths i order new pads. I think some tracks require you to have >50% left if running stock/street pads. This is because your pad is basically a heatsink. The more mass the more heat it can absorb. The thinner they get the quicker/hotter they get. This transfers more heat to the caliper increasing the risk of boiling your fluid which is a safety issue.

My last set of pads(EBC Red) got me 3 trackdays, 3 autocrosses, and around 14,000 miles with only 1/8" left. Just switched too Hawk HPS and am reseting the clock.

 

[chiurw]

Thanks for the feedback guys. Now that I know the stock pads come with extra hardware, I will have the dealer replace it as well. I purchased this Gen3 six months ago with only 10.5k miles. Now it has 13k miles and the rear is making noise. Took it to the dealer and found that the driver's side rear rotor was scored on the inside yet the pads still had quite a bit of friction material left on them. In the end, I will have to replace both rotors and pads. Wish some of you guys who have DIY lived closer so you could show me how to replace the pads and rotors. Should I replace the parking brake pads as well? I lightly pulled up on the e-brake while coasting at 10mph and heard an awful grinding/moaning sound coming from the driver's side rear as well but don't know if it is attributed to the scored rotor only.

 

[Darbgnik]

The grinding you hear is from the parking brake pads, not the stopping pads. On a lot of Vipers, the inside parking pad wears out, while the outside stays good. Gotta take the back wheel off, and look behind the rotor to see it.

The solution to this, believe it or not, is to rotate the outside pad to the inside. I'd check every 5000 miles for this.

But thats definitely your issue. But SRT rotors are cheap, so not a bad lesson to learn.

 

[Darbgnik]

BTW, the Viper is the easiest car to change your brake pads on. Both ends are the same.
1 Pop the wheel off
2 Grab a long center punch
3 Locate the 2 holes on the front of the caliper(with metal color pin in it)
4 Locate same pins from behind
5 Gently tap out pins from behind with punch
6 Pick up retainer
7 Jam medium sized flat screwdriver between old pad and rotor
8 Pry old pads away from rotor(to allow thicker new ones to fit)
9 Lift out old pads, drop in new pads.
10 Lay retainer back in, tap pins back in from front.
11 Put wheel back on.

Easy.

Now the parking pads, they are a little more time consuming, but still easy.

 

[steve911]

where are you located???

 

[chiurw]

The grinding you hear is from the parking brake pads, not the stopping pads. On a lot of Vipers, the inside parking pad wears out, while the outside stays good. Gotta take the back wheel off, and look behind the rotor to see it.

The solution to this, believe it or not, is to rotate the outside pad to the inside. I'd check every 5000 miles for this.

But thats definitely your issue. But SRT rotors are cheap, so not a bad lesson to learn.

Thanks for the information. Since I am getting new rotors, I will get everything new so I can establish a good baseline. Then I will keep my eyes on the inner ebrake pad.

 

[chiurw]

where are you located???

I live in El Paso, TX. Not many Viper owners, much less Viper performance shops. So the dealer is about the only place I can take it to. Fortunately, the dealer I took mine to has a certified Viper tech working there. His recommendation was to replace both rear rotors and pads. He did not mention to me about the e-brake pads but based on a previous poster's comment, I will have to replace that as well.

 

[TowDawg]

I live in El Paso, TX. Not many Viper owners, much less Viper performance shops. So the dealer is about the only place I can take it to. Fortunately, the dealer I took mine to has a certified Viper tech working there. His recommendation was to replace both rear rotors and pads. He did not mention to me about the e-brake pads but based on a previous poster's comment, I will have to replace that as well.

If he is their idea of a certified Viper tech, I would be looking for a new place to take it. As soon he saw it, he should have know it was the ebrake pads. Check your own "stopping" pads and don't let them **** you on replacing new pads, rotors and the ebrake pads! Plus, dealer pricing on these items can be insane! Check with the vendors here and I promise you that you will get the parts cheaper than what they will charge you.