Stock RT/10 prepare for racing - questions

[Vipersrule]

I've only had my RT/10 for a couple of months, but want to prepare to do some racing in the next month or so. A few questions for those of you who have already been there, done that.

First of all - I want to stay pretty much stock and KIS (keep it simple). I plan on driving the Viper for a few years stock and making a project out of it in a few years - plus it gives me time to get to know the base car. Likewise, I want to drive my Viper - it's not going to sit much. I want a pretty easy conversion from racing to street. I don't want to spend hours going from one to the other - in fact - I'd like to drive the car to the track and home again.

I've worked on cars quite a bit, so I pretty much have the ability - it's just the idea of the Viper (my first new car). I have to get past the mystic of touching this "perfect" machine with a wrench

Here's the questions:

1) Brakes:
What type of brake pads should I keep on hand for the road racing?
I've changed brakes on trucks and cars in the past - just never the Viper.
Do you tend to change out front and back for racing or just fronts?
Are the back brakes disk just like the front?
How long does it generally take to switch them out for racing?

I plan on purchasing EBC greens for normal driving based on what I've read.

2) Helmut:
Suggestions? Simple, effective.

3) Tires:
Suggestions? Drag versus road racing?
Should I have both front and back sets?
Again thinking simple and cost effective.

Is there anything else that I need to be aware of to be a prepared as I can - seeing as how I've never raced before.

Thanks

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

What type of brake pads should I keep on hand for the road racing?

I think most use Brakeman 3 or PFC.

Do you tend to change out front and back for racing or just fronts?

You can get away with just changing the fronts. The back brakes don't do much in stock config. Some use EBC reds on the rear, and a race pad on the front.

Are the back brakes disk just like the front?

4 wheel disk. Although pushing the piston in on the rears can be a b*tch.

How long does it generally take to switch them out for racing?

Front pads only - 10 to 15 minutes.

2) Helmut:
Suggestions? Simple, effective.

Get the latest and greatest Snell approved. Snell2000 I think. Get Nomex. I have a Simpson Snell2000 with a Nomex hood.

3) Tires:
Suggestions?

Viper days requires Michelin. I bought wheels and tires from John Purner Complete Custom Wheels (386) 258-0083 or (888) 577-0144. 18fronts and 17rears were the hot ticket at the time. If I did things over I would've gone with 18 all the way around. He has a popular drag racing setup too.

Is there anything else that I need to be aware of to be a prepared as I can - seeing as how I've never raced before.

Fresh fluids are cheap insurance. Fresh hi-temp brake fluid is mandatory. Motul600 or if you don't have an adaquate brake cooling system go with the top of the line Castrol.

Glad to hear you're gonna do it. Post your experience afterwards.

 

[jrkermode]

I went through the same thing a few months back prior to taking my bone stock 2002 GTS out on the track. I was told the following were must haves:
power steering cooler,
Accusump or baffled pan,
brake pads,
brake rotors,
high temp brake fluid,
Race alignment,
tires,
4 wheel Porsche air deflectors.

That seemed like overkill, so I mounted air deflectors on the front only and went to Sears Point. Car ran all day like a train, no problems whatsoever. I kept an eye on the tires and ended up augmenting my tires CAAP air with some Sonoma air. An extra 1 psig in the rear and 2 psig in the front had the tires rolling just enough to erase the little Michelin man.

Maybe I can't drive as well as those giving the advice, but I was fastest in my group and had fun.

So, my advice is simply make sure everything is topped up, safe and secure, then head to the track and enjoy your car.

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

So, my advice is simply make sure everything is topped up, safe and secure, then head to the track and enjoy your car.

I agree that your list is overkill for a first timer, but you never know somebody else's driving style. I've fried brake fluid (and so have many others) so I'm a little paranoid about it. Also I didn't think the Porsche deflectors did a darn thing.

I use a pipe wrench to tighten down the power steering cap another half turn or so.

 

[Craig 201 MPH]

and just to add another thing, do not set the parking brake after comming off the track until the brakes have cooled.

 

[Fred(DrivingSchool)Kinder]

Many good ideas. But the first upgrade is to the computer controlling the throttle, braking and steering.

Take a couple Skip Barber programs. Start with the 2 day school(discounted 25% to VCA members all others discounted 10%), follow with Car Control then the racing school.

 

[Ulysses]

So, this is your first time out on the track. Definitely keep things simple.

I think the stock pads are good enough for your first time out. Just make sure you have a lot of pad left before you go out. Change out your brake fluid to something better like Motul 600 and your clutch fluid as well.

Make sure all fluids are new and topped.

If you want a little better feel to the brakes, change out the lines to braided lines. That would be a good time to change out your brake fluid.

Snell 2000 for the helmet. Get some gloves (Sparco or Simpson) and some comfortable shoes, long sleeve shirt.

Stock tires should be good for your first time out. There's a lot of info about tire pressure and monitoring and adjusting that pressure throughout the day. Do a search.

Make sure the power steering cap is on good and tight.

Minimum tools you should bring along are a torque wrench, a good tire pressure gauge (dial indicator type with bleed) and a air tank or air compressor to air up the tires. At this point a temp gauge to measure tire temps may be moot, but it might be fun to have one along.

A note book to keep track of tire pressure, tire temps and times. This may not be necessary the first time out, since you should be concentrating on your driving style, but it's nice to know if the changes you made improve your times.

One other mod I would really consider is changing out the long bolt with a shorter one at the bottom of the facia under the overflow bottle. It is long enough to put a whole in the tank if you take an off road excursion and bump the facia. Not fun.

The stock belts were adequate, but I still moved around a lot. You might want to install 5 or 6 points for safety. I have had a bad spinout on the track with the stock belts and I was thrown around all over the place.

Edit: This is just my humble opinion. but I would seriously consider taking a class with a school that provides their own cars. Then you don't have to worry about getting home if you take a hit, God forbid.

 

[Vipersrule]

Thanks a million..... That's plenty of good advice to get through the first few times. Especially on the fluids - I wouldn't have thought about changing out the brake fluid.

I'll definitely take it easy and simple to start. I'm not a bad driver - pretty good in terms of reaction, feel, and timing. But I'm not stupid either, I've never raced on a track, so over-confidence is something I'm going to avoid.

I don't want to be too timid either - but like it was pointed out so nicely - I do have to drive the snake home afterwards.......

Plus - I really need a chance to "stretch" my legs and see what she can do!!!

For now it's just learning and light fun.... In a few years when I make a project out of the Viper - it might become something totally different

Thanks for all the great advice - maybe I'll see you at the track sometime.... (in my rear view mirror? )

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

maybe I'll see you at the track sometime.... (in my rear view mirror? )

That'll happen if you meet up with GTS Dean at one of those Texas tracks...only for a couple seconds though.

 

[joe117]

I think you should learn to race with some other car. If you have enough money so the thought of wrecking or badly whacking your Viper is no big deal, then go ahead. If the car means a lot to you, you will have a much better time if you spend a year or so in some lesser car while you get some seat time. Learning to race with a Viper is going to be a real steep learning curve. Just my advice.

 

[SoCal Rebell]

OK, 1st rule don't listen to "Chuck RT/10" (jk). I went through the same thing in my RT 2 years ago (and 75 track days). It is addictive and as you go to the track more you will upgrade your Viper accordingly. To start KEEP IT SIMPLE, change out your brake fluid to a high "wet" boiling point fluid (Motul 600 is good). Change your front pads out to a Brakeman 3 pad (EBC reds do NOT work on the street), you can keep the Brakeman 3 pad on for street driving, they do not have to heat up to work. Keep oil at full line not above make sure ps cap is tight. The Pilots are good tires, start at 32 psi front and 30 psi rear COLD. After each session check all presures as soon as you exit the track, a good average is 40 psi front 38 psi rear HOT. This will work well to start.